[Yogesh Sarkar]

Destination: Ladakh aka Leh-Ladakh

For five months every year (May - October), route to the Mecca of touring opens and scores of adventure tourers and travelers from across the world rush to ladakh to take part in a pilgrimage for adventure seekers and seek to test their determination and machines in the demanding terrain of Ladakh.

There are two routes one can take to reach Leh (capital of ladakh), one is via Manali and the other one is via Srinagar. Although Manali - Leh route is longer than Srinagar - Leh, most people prefer the Manali - Leh route due to the fact it is a bit tougher but more scenic than the Srinagar - Leh route.

However if you are starting your journey from Delhi, than Manali - Leh route will turn out to be shorter due to the fact that Manali is 580kms from Delhi while Srinagar is roughly 930kms.

[Yogesh Sarkar]

Delhi - Manali - Leh:

Route: Delhi - Manali - Kokhsar - Tandi - Keylong - Darcha - Sarchu - Pang - Upshi - Leh

Distance: Delhi - Manali 580 kms + Manali - Leh 490 kms = 1070 kms

The Journey: Usually the Delhi - Manali - Leh circuit is covered in the span of three days, while few like to take it easy and cover it in four to five days depending on the time at hand.

Here is a sample itinerary for a three day journey to Leh, starting from Delhi:

(In case you need help planning your journey than please post an appropriate topic for the same in the Itinerary section and our expert members will help you through the details)

Day 1 Delhi – Manali (580 kms): this journey can take any where between 11 hours to 18 hours depending on the number of breaks and your driving/riding speed. After you reach Manali the first thing you need to do is tank up on petrol, because you need start early in the morning to reach Sarchu and the petrol pumps might not be open at that time. For details regarding the Delhi - Manali route click here…

Day 2 Manali – Sarchu (230 kms): this is where the fun starts, after riding/driving for 52 kms you will reach Rohtang Pass, the first of many high altitude passes that you will encounter on your journey to Ladakh. Take a breather at Rohtang La (13050ft); there are Dhabas at Rohtang parking (couple of kms before the pass) where you can have your breakfast if you decide not to stop at Marhi.

Journey from here is mostly downhill till Tandi (110 kms), which is the last petrol pump till you reach the outskirts of Leh roughly 380kms from here, so don’t forget to tank up and in case you are not sure if your vehicle will be able to cover these many kms in a single tank of gas than do get spare petrol/diesel.

Next up is Keylong which is the last place where your mobile phone will work (until you reach Leh) and also the last place where you can hope to find a mechanic (before Leh); in case you are having some problems with your vehicle get it checked ASAP!

Next stop Darcha; All tourists need to register themselves at the check post. Relax and tank up on water and snacks, because now you will be riding to Baralacha La (16500ft). Roads are mostly in bad shape and as the altitude increases, you might start noticing the first effects of Acute Mountain Sickness. From Baralacha La it’s again a downhill but a rough ride till Sarchu.

Accommodations: Before reaching Sarchu you will start noticing camps put up by various travel companies; one can stay in these tents which are normally referred to as luxury tents or one can cross the Sarchu Bridge and get a bed in tent cum Dhabas which normally charge Rs. 30 per person. Don’t bother looking for a hotel, there aren’t any!

Day 3 Sarchu – Leh (260 kms): After a cold and windy night in Sarchu rise early, have breakfast and start off for Leh as early as possible you have a long journey ahead. Roads from Sarchu till the start of Gata Loops are mostly in good condition and the ride/drive is mostly fast.

The first chore of the day is Gata Loop which is a collection of 21 loops that take you to an altitude of 15302 ft. Next up is the first pass of the day, Nakee La located at an altitude of 15547ft. Soon after Nakee La you will encounter the second pass of the day, Lachulung La (16616 ft). The road from here will take you to Pang which is another temporary collection of tents and also has a check post where travelers need to register themselves. Take a breather here and eat some thing for the tough journey ahead.

The road from Pang will take you to the famous Moore Plains; situated in a plateau you will be hard-pressed to believe that this relatively flat land is located at an altitude of 15400ft. Road here is relatively straight and in good condition, inviting you to indulge in speeding. But don’t! Road is mostly bumpy due to Marmot digging holes under them which will test your vehicles suspension to the fullest.

After the fast paced journey you will find your self climbing the third highest pass you will encounter in Ladakh, Tanglang La (17582ft). Final few kms to the summit of the pass are in bad condition and the steepness coupled with lack of air takes a toll on vehicles performance. But once you reach the top you will be greeted with spectacular views, in fact Tanglang La offers the best views than the rest of the passes. The pass itself is quite windy and it’s not uncommon to encounter snow, so take a few photographs and start your journey again.

Roads from here on are downhill all the way to Leh, after a few kms of bad roads you will be greeted with spectacular tarmac and coupled with decreasing altitude and change in scenery from arid to green is sure to be a fantastic reward for your hardship over the past couple of days.

[Yogesh Sarkar]

Delhi - Srinagar - Leh

Route: Delhi - Ambala - Ludhiana - Jalandhar - Pathankot - Jammu - Udhampur - Banihal - Srinagar - Sonamarg - Drass - Kargil - Lamayoru - Leh

Distance: Delhi - Srinagar 890 kms + Srinagar - Leh 440 kms = 1330 kms

The Journey: Usually the Delhi - Srinagar - Leh circuit is covered in the span of four days, however if you have time in hand and have never visited Srinagar take this opportunity and spend few days there as well.

Here is a sample four days Itinerary for Delhi - Srinagar - Leh route:

Day 1 Delhi - Jammu (590 kms): Start early from Delhi, for most of the time you have to ride on the NH-1 and thereafter on NH-1 A. Roads are fantastic four lane highway till Jalandhar and driving/riding is done on a fast pace. After Jalandhar roads are a mixture of good and bad, but for the most part journey is fast paced.

Accommodation: Since Jammu is favorite stop point/destination for travelers and Hindu pilgrims, there are lot of accommodation options available to suit every need and budget. Here is a list of hotels available in Jammu http://www.jktourism.org/cities/jammu/stay/hotel.htm

Day 2 Jammu - Srinagar (300 kms): Get up early in the morning to start for Srinagar, summer capital of the state of Jammu & Kashmir. Roads from Jammu to Srinagar are mostly in good condition barring few stretches, there are landslide and avalanche areas which witness landslides on a regular basis which invariably cause traffic jams on the highway, and due to this starting early in the morning is recommended.

A word of caution, drive/ride carefully on the Jammu - Srinagar highway, since the traffic playing on this route is reckless to say the least. Also due to the militancy there are armed soldiers posted every few hundred meters.

Accommodation: Srinagar has plenty of accommodation options to offer, including lavishly decorated houseboats. Here is a list of hotels in Srinagar http://www.jktourism.org/cities/kash...list-hotel.htm

Day 3 Srinagar - Kargil (205 kms): If yesterday’s journey gave you some fantastic views than get ready with your camera today, because the ride/drive today would be even more scenic. Even though one can find petrol pumps along the way, it is recommended to tank up at Srinagar, also the price of petrol/diesel is cheaper in Srinagar than in Kargil and beyond.

For the better part of first day one finds himself driving/riding among some of the worlds most beautiful vistas, the first major halt of the day Sonamarg i.e. meadows of gold is a fantastic place to spend some time. Roads till Sonamarg are mostly in good condition barring a few rough patches.

After Sonamarg the landscape starts changing dramatically all the way till the famous Zoji La pass (11640ft), roads on the both side of the pass are in bad condition with lot of gravel and on rainy days it becomes mud so be prepared. The traffic to the final summit of the pass is controlled and visitors have to get themselves registered to proceed further. This is also the toughest few kms of the entire Srinagar - Leh highway, beyond which tarmac is fantastic.

After crossing from the Zoji La the scenery changes from lush green meadows to arid mountain signaling your cross over from Kashmir to Ladakh. Ride there after is quite good and your next major stopover would be at Drass. If you reached here late in the afternoon than my recommendation would be to have your meal here especially if you are a vegetarian, in Kargil the food isn’t that good and for vegetarians finding food can be a bit of chore. A few kms after Drass is the Drass war memorial built in the memory of fallen soldiers in the 1999 Kargil war.

From Drass it is a straight run to Kargil which for most is the pit stop for the day.

Accommodation: there are several accommodation options available in Kargil; here is a list of few of them: http://www.jktourism.org/cities/ladakh/kargil/stay.htm

Day 4 Kargil - Leh (235 kms): After a good night of sleep, start early from Kargil but don't forget to tank up. If you want you can skip breakfast since Mulbek 40 odd kms down the road has better eatery especially if you are a vegetarian, the restaurant at Mulbek is located opposite the statue of Maitreya, the future Buddha. It is believe the 9 meter high statue carved out of solid rock was built in 7th or 8th century.

A short ride from Mulbek will take you to 12198ft high Namik La, a windy yet scenic pass. Roughly 40kms down the ride you would be welcomed by Fotu La, the highest point in the Srinagar - Leh journey (13479ft).

After short yet scenic ride/drive you will reach the village of Lamayoru, Ladakh’s most famous and one of the oldest Gompas. Take some timeout here for a quick photo shoot and a visit to Gompa, else plan a dedicated day for it and move on.

Few kms down the road one encounters Hangro Loops, the 18 loops are fast yet sharp loops with steep gorges, drive/ride carefully here. Next major attraction comes in the form of Gurudwara Patthar Sahib located in the town of Nimmu, beyond which its fast and straight drive/ride to Leh.

[Yogesh Sarkar]

Leh

After a hard ride/drive through either of these routes you will reach the district and administrative capital of Ladakh, Leh.

Leh is beautiful city and also the gateway to some spectacular excursions in Ladakh. Leh also boosts of civic amenities like airport, banking, internet cafés, phone services, market, petrol pumps, automobile service centers and mechanics, thus providing a breather and a place to recuperate for both man and machine.

Places of interest:

Leh and surrounding towns and villages have a lot to offer to travelers in the form of ancient Gompas, Mosques and Palaces.

Shanti Stupa: One of the newest of Leh’s religious monument, Shanti Stupa was built by a Japanese Buddhist order in 1985. The white colored structure of Shanti Stupa is decorated with traditional Buddhist paintings. Located only a couple of kms from Leh’s Fort Road, Shanti Stupa offers fantastic views of Leh city.

Ancient Leh Palace: Towering over the city of Leh is the former residence of Ladakh’s royal family, Leh Palace. Built in 16th century this 9 story Palace still looks fantastic and offers a panoramic view of the city. Above the palace on the Namgyal Tsemo hill are the remains of an old fort built in the 16th century by then King of Ladakh, Tashi Namgyal.

Main Market: main market of ladakh offers travelers and locals a place to indulge in shopping, from internet cafes, to restaurants offering mouthwatering traditional and foreign cuisines, traditional ladakh handicraft items, cloths, vegetables, so if you need some thing, chances are you will be able to find it in the main market.

Polo Ground: Located couple of kms away from the main market is Leh’s polo ground, the highest in the world. Next to the Polo ground is Ladakh’s DC Office where one needs to apply for permits to visit restricted areas like Pangong Tso, Nubra Valley etc.

Thiksey Gompa: 20 kms from Leh on the Leh - Manali highways is the famous Thiksey Gompa. Situated on top a hill, Thiksey Gompa not only offers spectacular panoramic views, it has some of the most beautiful murals and statues. Thiksey Gompa also contains gold covered 15 meter tall statue of Maitreya, the future Buddha. Click here to know more about Thiksey Gompa…

There are several other Gompas worth visiting in and around Leh; to know more about them, Click here

Accommodation in Ladakh: Leh is filled with hotels and guest houses of various types and budget, for a list of accommodation available in Ladakh Click here

Petrol Pump: There are two Indian oil Petrol Pumps, one located on the entrance of Leh city and another located few kms down the road on the Leh - Manali highway.

[Yogesh Sarkar]

Leh – Khardung La – Nubra Valley

Route: Leh - Phyang - Khardung La (40kms) - Khardung - Khalsar - Diskit - Hunder - Diskit - Panamik

Distance: It will depend on the places you visit, but a round trip to Nubra Valley should be roughly 300 - 350 kms.

The Journey: There are various ways to do this excursion, people short on time prefer to only drive/ride till Khardung La, spend some time there and come back to Leh, any trip of this sort should come out to be 80 kms.

However many people do decide to go to Nubra Valley, which is highly recommended. You will need two - three days for such an excursion.

Here is a sample itinerary of the Nubra Valley circuit spanning three days:

Day 1 Leh - Khardung La - Hunder (120 kms): an early start should ensure that one reaches Khardung La without encountering lot of traffic. Despite all the hype surrounding Khardung La, drive/ride to the summit is relatively easy one. Road beyond South Pallu (check post where one needs to submit the permits) is in bad condition and gain in altitude is quite a lot, however it isn’t as strenuous or steep as Chang La or for that matter Tanglang La.

Once you reach the summit, you can take time out get your photo taken next to the signboard which says “Khardung La, 18380ft, Highest Motorable Road in the world”. For those out of breath, there is café at the summit as well where one can have a much needed cup of tea/coffee along with some snacks. There is also a suvnior shop selling Khardung La memorabilia.

After break get ready for a bumpy ride/drive till North Pallu (one needs to submit permits here as well) this also the last place before the village of Khardung where one can expect to find food.

Ride from North Pallu onward is relatively smooth with some fantastic views of the Nubra Valley. The main charm of this valley is the fact that views change every few kilometers from barren mountains to lush green fields to sand dunes, you will see and experience different views and weather extremities here and that too in a span of few hours.

Many people choose to stay at Diskit and there are phone facilities available here as well as hotels and guest houses. While in Diskit don’t forget to visit the ancient Diskit Gompa which was built in 1420AD. Perched on top of a hill overlooking town of Diskit, the Gompa provides some breathtaking panoramic views. Access to Gompa is via a half hour trek through a two meter wide steep path; however the views and the Gompa more than make up for the effort. The main attraction of the Gompa is the main Deity, which holds in its hand the mummified human forearm and head, which is believed to be of a Mongol warrior.

However if you are looking for a more beautiful place to stay, then head over to Hunder 8 kms down the road. Hunder is set amidst fields of rye and barley and surrounded by fruit orchids and sand dunes; Hunder is a welcome break from the moonscape scenery of Ladakh.

Day 2 Hunder - Diskit - Sumur - Panamik - Sumur (40 kms): After backtracking for 15 odd kms you should be back at the bifurcation from where you had taken road to Diskit, now you need to take the other route going towards Sumur and Panamik.

Sumur (the village of three rivers) is the most touristy place in Nubra Valley, Sumurs main attraction is the 150 year old Samstening Gompa. Apart from that the village itself is quite beautiful, 20km down the road is the village of Panamik famous for 250 year old Ensa Gompa and hot water springs. This is also the last point tourists are allowed. After a hot bath head back to either Panamik for a good night sleep.

Day 3 Sumur - Khardung La - Leh (125 kms): Start early, despite the fact that you will have to cover only 125 kms, controlled traffic on Khardung La means you could be delayed if the traffic from Leh is being allowed in. Once again road are good till North Pallu and it is a relatively easy drive/ride.

Accommodation: There are several accommodation options available in Diskit, Hunder and Sumur; Panamik on the other hand has only a handful of guest houses. Here is a list of hotels/guest houses in Ladakh http://www.jktourism.org/cities/ladakh/stay/tariff.htm

Amenities: There is a petrol pump in Diskit, however it is best not to rely on it and get the tankful done in Leh itself. There are also several phone booths in Diskit.

Restricted Area: Nubra Valley and Khardung La are restricted areas and to visit them you need permits which are easily obtainable from the DC’s office in Leh and can be procured by either submitting the application yourself or through a travel agent. The permits are issued for a maximum period of three weeks, in case you are visiting other restricted areas like Tso Moriri and Pangong Tso you need to mention them in the permit as well.

Make at least 4 photocopies of the permit per region, since you would need to submit them at various check posts.

[Yogesh Sarkar]

Leh - Chang La - Pangong Tso

Route: Leh - Shey - Karu - Shakti - Chang La - Tanksey - Lukung - Spangmik (Pangong Tso)

Distance: 170kms

The Journey: Many travelers do the Leh - Pangong Tso excursion as a day trip and come back to Leh by night fall. However this is not recommended, since the 340 km long round trip leaves little time for Pangong Tso which is a magnificent lake and doing this excursion in the span of 2 - 3 days is highly recommended.

Following is a sample itinerary for an excursion to Pangong Tso spanned over two days.

Day 1 Leh - Chang La - Pangong Tso (170 kms): Start off from Leh in the morning after breakfast and start driving/riding on the Leh - Manali highway till you reach the town of Karu. From here you need to take a left turn to go towards village Shakti, roads are mostly straight and incline is little till you cross Shakti and a couple of kilometer thereafter the accent for Chan La starts.

For most part accent is steep and roads are generally good and you will be greeted by some wonderful views of village in the plateau below. However the final few kms of the accent are in bad shape and the accent is quite steep, which will test your riding/driving skills as well as endurance of your vehicle. Of all the passes one encounters in a trip to ladakh (barring Marsimik La) Chang La is the steepest and due to bad roads during the final accent it is also the toughest, no wonder it is called The Mighty Chang La.

At 17800ft it is also the second highest pass in ladakh that you will come across. Once you reach the summit, you will be greeted by the Indian Army troops who are stationed here to acclimatize to high altitude, before they are posted in Siachen. There is a temple on top of Chang La pass called Chang La Baba ka Mandir, as well a cabin built by the army where you can warm up yourself while chatting with the soldiers. After a few minutes rest its time to begin the decent from Chang La, road is in bad condition for a few kilometers, beyond which superbly laid tarmac coupled with beautiful scenery awaits you.

Your next big break will be at Tanksey aka Tangste, Tanksey is a big town with few shops and hotels and an internet café. It is a good idea to have your lunch here or in case you have arrived late in the evening, than spend the night here instead of continuing to Lukung or Spangmik where finding accommodation in peak season can be an issue. Else you can continue to Lukung, where the magnificent Pangong Tso starts.

After you reach the shores of Pangong Tso, you can either look for accommodation in the nearby eco huts or you can continue on to the village of Spangmik. The road however ends here and you are left with a trail filled with sand and rock for the next 7kms to Spangmik, this is also the last point up to which tourists are allowed to venture.

Day 2 Pangong Tso - Chang La - Leh (170 kms): Wake up early in the day to witness a spectacular sunrise over Pangong Tso, after which you can begin your journey back to Leh.

Accommodation: Finding a good place to spend a night near Pangong Tso can be a bit of a headache during peak season. Spangmik only has one hotel which offers rooms as well as luxury tents; however get ready to shell out any where between Rs.700 - 1200 for these. One can also find accommodation in guest houses that some inhabitants of Spangmik run from their home. However a better option is to find a place to stay in the Eco Huts at Lukung, which is just right of the shore of Pangong Tso. Be warned there is no electricity or proper toilet, just camping grade toilet and warm water courtesy solar water heater.

One can also find accommodation in Tanksey which is of better quality but away from the lake.

Amenities: Before you head off for Pangong Tso make sure your vehicle is in good condition and you have enough fuel for 400kms. There are no phones here, only an internet café at Tanksey.

Restricted Area: Pangong Tso and Chang La are restricted areas and to visit them, you need permits which are easily obtainable from the DC’s office in Leh and can be procured by either submitting the application yourself or through a travel agent. The permits are issued for a maximum period of three weeks, in case you are visiting other restricted areas like Tso Moriri and Nubra Valley you need to mention them in the permit as well.

Make at least 4 photocopies of the permit per region, since you would need to submit them at various check posts.

[Yogesh Sarkar]

Leh - Tso Moriri - Tso Kar

Route: Leh - Upshi - Chumathang - Mahe Bridge - Tso Moriri - Korzok - Mahe Bridge - Tso Kar

Distance: 295 kms for the above route (one way)

The Journey: There are a few variations to the above listed circuit, one can go to only Tso Moriri or do the entire Tso Moriri – Tso Kar circuit and come back via the same route or via the Manali – Leh highway, and in fact you even go back to Manali after doing this route without needing to come back to Leh.

Below is a sample itinerary spanning over three days, in case you are interested in an alternate plan and need help, please start an appropriate topic in the Itinerary Section.

Day 1 Leh – Chumathang – Tso Moriri (Korzok) (215 kms): Although you will be traveling for 215 kms, it is best to start early from Leh. Once out of Leh you will find yourself driving/riding on the Manali - Leh highway till you reach the town of Upshi. From the roundabout you have to take the bifurcation to left, few hundred meters down the road is the check post where you need to submit your permits. After which, you will find your self riding/driving through some fantastic sceneries with relatively straight roads in good condition, with the legendry Indus river for company.

The route is simple and relatively in good condition till Sumdo, barring a few patches especially in the landslide zones where the road for 15+ kms is covered in sand. After Sumdo roads are in good condition for few kilometers, after which it is best not to use the road since it is too bumpy, instead either make your own track by offroading or use a track left by another vehicle. The last 35kms are a pain, but a boon for people who love off road riding/driving, the track here are a mixture of sand trails and dirt trails littered with small stones. However the view one gets at the end of it all takes all the pain and hardship away.

Even though Tso Moriri is smaller than Pangong Tso and fewer people come here, it is more beautiful in some ways. Remember that area surrounding Tso Moriri is also a wild life reserve and it is not allowed to pitch your tent next to the lake or for that matter enter with your vehicle in the fenced areas. Instead take a right from the main entrance and continue for few kilometers to reach the village of Korzok aka Karzok. Before you enter the village you have to submit your permits again.

Accommodation: There are few accommodation options in Korzok since Tso Moriri isn’t as famous as Pangong Tso. However there is a hotel here along with guest houses that Chang-pa Nomads run from their houses. There is also a collection of tents and one can even pitch their own tents at designate spots.

Amenities: There is little in terms of creature comfort in Korzok, no swanky restaurants, petrol pumps, internet cafes or phones.

Restricted Area: Tso Moriri is a restricted area and to visit it you need permits which are easily obtainable from the DC’s office in Leh and can be procured by either submitting the application yourself or through a travel agent. The permits are issued for a maximum period of three weeks, in case you are visiting other restricted areas like Nubra Valley and Pangong Tso you need to mention them in the permit as well.

Make at least 4 photocopies of the permit per region, since you would need to submit them at various check posts.

Day 2 Korzok - Tso Moriri - Mahe Bridge - Tso Kar (80 kms): With roughly 80 kms to cover, one can take it easy and leave leisurely in the afternoon. To reach Tso Kar, one needs to back track till the Mahe Bridge, from there you need to take the diversion for Tso Kar. Route again is a mixture of good and bad, but mostly bad.

It is believed that Tso Kar was once connected to Tso Moriri, even though Tso Kar is a salt water lake while Tso Moriri is fresh water. The area surrounding Tso Kar is protected and forms the Tso Kar wild life sanctuary.

Accommodation: There are tented accommodations available near Tso Kar; one can also pitch their own tent in designate spots.

Day 3 Tso Kar - Moore Plains - Tanglang La - Leh (155 kms): After having your breakfast and clicking photographs, take the diversion to Manali - Leh highway, which is 25kms from Tso Kar. Once on the highway, take the right turn to go back to Leh or take a left if you wish to continue to Manali. Route from here is good all the way to Leh, barring the 17582 ft Tanglang La pass.

Important: There are no petrol pumps along the way, so do make sure when you leave Leh that you have at least 500 kms worth of petrol/diesel.

[Yogesh Sarkar]

Leh - Kargil - Rangdum (Suru Valley) - Padum (Zanskar Valley)

Route: Leh - Kargil - Sanko - Parakachik - Rangdum - Panzi La - Padum (Zanskar Valley)

Distance: Leh - Kargil 235 kms + Kargil - Padum 245 kms = 480 kms

The Journey: Zanskar Valley is one of the least visited spots in ladakh and this is mainly due to the distance and fact that roads here are dirt tracks for the most part. Most people like to take this excursion at the end of their trip while returning from Ladakh via Srinagar; however there are few who like to cover Zanskar first, while a smaller number do it in the middle of their trip.

Here is a sample itinerary starting from Kargil, to know more about how to reach Kargil, please read the above post regarding Kargil - Leh journey.

Day 1 Kargil - Rangdum (Suru Valley) (130 kms): It is better to have your breakfast in Kargil itself and also to get the supplies, both for your vehicles and yourself from Kargil. Since there are no petrol pumps in Suru or Zanskar Valley so please ensure you have at least 550kms worth of petrol.

While 130 kms doesn’t sounds like much, of the 130 kms that one has to cover to reach Rangdum, 90 kms is off road riding/driving. Add to this you will be greeted with some fantastic vistas which will prompt you to stop for photography. There are two glaciers along the way as well, Parakachik and Shafat. These are visible from Parakachik and Panikhar and provide some fantastic photography opportunities. It can take any where between 6 - 7 hours to reach Rangdum.

Although one doesn’t need inner line permits to visit Suru and Zanskar Valleys, you would need to register your self at different police check posts along the way, so keep your driving license (and passport if you are not a foreigner) handy.

Accommodation: There are two places where one can sleep in Rangdum, one is a PWD guest house and the other one is J&K tourism one. Accommodation at both the guest houses is cheap and amenities here are limited to solar powered lights and outside toilets. Beside this you can also pitch your tent either in the compound of these guest houses or near the two Dhabas next to the police station.

Day 2 Rangdum - Padum (115 kms): With 115 kms to go, you can afford to start a bit lazily. Make sure you eat your breakfast, since this is the last place where you can hope to find a Dhaba before Padum.

Once on the road the first place you will come across is the 18th century Rangdum Gompa. Take some time out and go for a stroll in the Gompa, after few kilometers the road starts winding again and the accent to Panzi La starts. Before you come across the Panzi La, there are two small lakes on the right hand side that one can see along with the first glimpses of the majestic Darung Drung glacier. Don’t worry about clicking photos of the Darung Drung glacier; after you reach the summit of Panzi La you will have a better view. At an altitude of 14000ft, Panzi La is the highest point on the Kargil - Padum highway and provides a fantastic view of Darung Drung Glacier. From here onward the road starts descending to the plateau below, along side the Stod River.

Roughly 15 kilometers before Padum one finds him/her self riding/driving on the smooth tarmac, although even this stretch at few places is devoid of tarmac and one finds himself suddenly amongst the now oh so familiar dirt track. The journey from Rangdum to Padum takes roughly 7-8 hours and the last 15kms of tarmac is a welcome relief.

Accommodation: Padum has several accommodation options to offer, from guest houses to camping ground, Padum has it all. Although the J&K guest house at Padum is highly recommended and is relatively cheap as well.

Amenities: Padum is the district head quarter of Zanskar Valley one can find phone booth, internet café and a verity of restaurants. However one thing that surely would be missed by people is the lack of a petrol pump.

Additional Information: Padum has quite a few things to offer to a tourist, not only is it the starting point of many treks, it is also surrounded by large number of Gompas.

It is best to devote an entire day to Padum and the places nearby; this will also provides time for the body to recuperate from the stress. One can also do Kargil to Padum in a single day and the journey should take roughly 14 hours, so if you are planning to reach Padum on the same day, start in the wee hours of morning from Kargil.

[Yogesh Sarkar]

All of the above described routes in this destination guide, have been covered personally by me, barring Tso Moriri - Tso Kar route (I did Leh - Tso Moriri - Leh). For the Tso Kar route, the inputs were provided by Salil, who had done this route in September 2006.

Utmost care has been taken to provide you the latest and correct information and this information will be updated as and when needed.

Feel free to give us your suggestions and feedback. In case you need any help planning a trip to ladakh, you can register on this forum for free and post a topic regarding that in our itinerary section and we will do our best to help you out.

Also do check out the following articles, which should help you prepare for the journey ahead.

Motorcycle Touring Guide

Renting Motorcycles in India

Phone services in Ladakh

Place where you can get liquor in Ladakh (information curtsey Bhuwan)

01) Manali
02) Jispa
03) Darcha
04) Sarchu
05) Upshi
06) Karu
07) Leh
08) Hunder (Nubra valley)
09) Tangtse (en route Pangong So)
10) Kargil
11) Drass
12) Sonamarg

Serial no. 1 to 9 closed on Tuesdays.

Serial no. 10 to 12 closed on Fridays till evening and during Ramzan

[ashish]

Great piece of info, yogesh. Great going.