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A Ride Across West Bengal When : 15th August – 18th August 2008 Why : I had to check out the present state of NH34 ...



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Old 23-08-08, 02:52 PM   #1
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A Ride Across West Bengal
When : 15th August – 18th August 2008

Why : I had to check out the present state of NH34 as this is the road that connects Silligudi with Kolkata. My ride next month will actually commence from Guwahati, but somehow I need to reach there and the only way is via Silligudi, so......

How : I was yet to receive my P200 but I wanted to go on a ride very badly, so asked for help and my friend Nirmallaya Chatterjee aka Lattu generously lend me his classic P150. A change of Engine Oil and I was all set, no tools, no spares, who cares.........

Who : Sandeep on his P220, Indranil on his P200 and Abhi on the P150 Altough after a day I was more or less alone

The Route : Kolkata to Panagarh More via NH2—Ilambazaar—Siuri—Moregram—Jangipur—Farakka—Mal dah—Raniganj—Dalkhola—Kishenganj(Bihar)—Islampur—S illigudi—Sevok—Teesta Bridge—Kalimpong.

While returning after Moregram I stick to NH34 so it was Kalimpong—Moregram—Berhampur—KrishnaNagar—Ranaghat —Barasat—Kolkata.

Conclusion : NH34 is not at all suitable for bikes at it's present state thanks to the millions of trucks those ply on it everyday and the last repair it seen in the previous CENTURY, infact the only motorable transport suitable on it is a Roadroller so I guess I will have to think of another way to reach Guwahati

Having said all these, this is NOT a triplog as all I did was ride, ride and ride. Time was short, road was long, weather was bad, bike was old and aged (done nearly 60K Kms) so to sum up, did not get much time to stop and click pics or rather may have not stopped at the appropriate spots to click, still trying to post with some words and occasional pics thrown in

Day 1 (15th August) : Kolkata to Dalkhola

The plan was to reach Silligudi by evening but alas we had no idea what lies ahead. We should have started at 4 in the morning but had to start because one of the riders, Indranil, could not start from his house before 6 a.m. so the plan was to meet at 6.30 in the morning and proceed. But even at 7 there was no sign of him and hence me and Sandeep decided to start leisurely as Indranil informed over phone that he will catch up with us soon. It was decided that we will take NH2 and reach Panagarh More (Strangely itz called Darjeeling More as well) and from there we will take the Ilambazaar-Siuri route and connect to NH34 at Moregram and then proceed through the traditional route. The idea behind it was to ride on good roads as much as possible and finally succumbing to the inevitable fate. But later I discovered that it was not useful and only added further 60-70 kms to our ride and we only lost valuable time on top of a very late start.

Anyway, as it was, me and Sandeep were riding on the NH2 leisurely hoping for Indranil to catch up with us from behind any moment! But, as fate was at one point we had to look for a local mechanic to tighten my RVM as it was not keeping steady for a minute and I’m not used to ride without RVM. And exactly during those couple of minutes Indranil must have ovetaked us as when we finally reached Shaktigarh (Famous for Langcha, a bengali sweet) and were waiting, we got a call from him telling us that he has already reached Panagarh which was further 30 minutes ahead!! We started again, reached Panagarh More around 10 a.m. and finally the group ride begun, so begun the potholes! Well potholes can be managed and hence we were cruising at 75-85 comfortably.

Here’s a pic of what I rode


Reached Ilambazaar around 12.30 and had a few biscuits and cakes as we decided to skip lunch to make up for the time. After this my sense of timing got jumbled up as I was not wearing a watch (I don’t wear any, can’t afford one ) and so for the rest of the day I don’t have much idea when we reached where. Around sometime reached Moregram and start riding on NH34. I don’t wanna repeat the pathetic condition of the road again and again, to sum up, NH34 will give you all kinds of nightmare as possible, at stretches for 20-25 Kms there are only big, bigger and biggest holes with occasional bits of road thrown in, the other sections are full of potholes, in short a rider’s graveyard. The good part is, we rode and we survived. Anyway, back to storytelling. A short while after Moregram mother nature thought that we must be bored by now riding all by ourselves and she decided to send some company, the rains came. Here we stopped at the roadside for a fag break and also to keep mobiles, moneybag, etc to keep inside the bag. I took out the camera and clicked a few pics.



The clouds gathering over the paddy fields of Bengal


It's getting darker


The road ahead


Time to roll on in the rains


After a while we started riding in the rains (None of us carried raingear) as we could not afford to lose any more time. Some 10-12 kms and the rain stopped, sky cleared only that we were left fully drenched, everything was wet including you know what!! Well that did not dampen our spirits and we continued riding.

Here’s a picture of the potholes at a reasonably good stretch of the road


We kept on riding and crossed Farakka, reached Maldah and rode on and as was inevitable, dusk fell. Here I first started to face some problems. There’s no light along NH34 and I was having difficulty seeing the potholes with the highbeams of the oncoming Trucks (They won’t lower their beam no matter how much you flash your headlight) and at the same time maintaining a speed of 80. So I asked Indranil and Sandeep for help. So, one of them started riding just behind me with their Highbeam (Sandeep’s a P220 and Indranil’s a P200 fitted with Avenger 180’s coil and Osram Nightbreaker and is better than a P220’s projector lamp) and with their light’s some of the trucker’s obliged and lowered the beam!!

Finally at about 9 in the evening we managed to reach Dalkhola. Here the nightmare of NH34 ends and butter smooth road lies ahead as we discovered next morning. My odo reading was somewhere around 550 Kms and we have survived 400 Kms of NH34 without a single fall. Basically I don’t like to fall and hence try not to and in this 1500 Kms grueling ride I never fell. But at Dalkhola we were not aware of the good roads ahead and also we were dead tired so we decided to stop for our dinner and to discuss what to do next. There was this wonderful BPCL feeling station with a Food Court and we took our break there. I took out my camera and clicked some pics.





The Food Court


Even tough the Food Court looked good there was not much choice of food available at that hour and we opted for Veg Pakora and Egg Chow. While waiting for food we discussed the situation. Being unaware of the good road ahead we assumed that it may take another 3-4 hours to reach Silligudi which is another 150 Kms aheads. Then we will be reaching at 1-2 in the morning which is not a good time and we may have difficulty finding a hotel. Also the P220 and P200 have developed some problems (My P150 was fine) and they needed to be serviced at Probiking which is sure to open at 10 or later in the morning and hence we will have to wait till then. So we decided to spend the night in that pump itself (It had BPCL promoted GHAR with it which offers dormitory beds for tourers and truckers and have all other facilities like Restrooms, Cleaning, etc) and just dragged our bodies to the beds and passed out.

To be Continued……..
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Old 23-08-08, 09:32 PM   #2
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Re: A Ride Across West Bengal
Hey pretty good narration abhi!! ... Keep writing
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Old 24-08-08, 07:31 AM   #3
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Re: A Ride Across West Bengal
Originally Posted by KurtRules View Post
Hey pretty good narration abhi!! ... Keep writing
Ditto!
While he thinks he's checking out the route to Siliguri, we've checked out his travelogue presentation style!
Very very agrreeable! He's all set for his BIG trip!
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Old 24-08-08, 10:04 AM   #4
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Re: A Ride Across West Bengal
Abhishek, interesting writing, what next ..?
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Old 24-08-08, 02:50 PM   #5
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Re: A Ride Across West Bengal
Boss, I could very well figure out from previous posts of Abhi that if he sits down to write a travelogue, he can do an excellent narration... & yes, he's done that exactly....
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Old 24-08-08, 06:37 PM   #6
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Re: A Ride Across West Bengal
Thanks Friends for your appreciation, I’m glad you liked it. I really wish that someday soon I will sit down to write a proper travelogue, this is merely a ride report with some occasional pictures taken by my novice hand being thrown in, still I am trying my best to make it interesting


Day 2 (16th August) : Dalkhola To Kalimpong


The dawn broke up, we got up, with lots of effort, the previous day ride has made all the bones in our body ache. Had tea without milk, since the milk is being supplied at 8 only and we can’t afford to wait for some lousy milk just to add it up with our tea. We bathed, got dressed and were on the road at about 7.30 in the morning. Silliguri was 150 Kms ahead and in daylight we were hopeful to make it by 10 a.m. Just as we hit the road it started raining hard, ohh God! We had the option to hurry back to the pump or ride on, we chose the later. Once again we got drenched all over but we did not complain as the road was good, real good. Just before Dalkhola NH34 ends and NH31 starts but we did not expect anything good thinking as we were still in West Bengal so how much difference can it make, and maybe that’s why we were rewarded. But alas, the joy did not last long. After some Kms we faced Jam!! Rather I must call it pile up of trucks so long our eyes can reach. The other side of the road was clear, not a single vehicle. But the divider was pretty high and seemed impossible to cross without hurting our vehicles. So we employed our traffic negotiating skills as developed in Kolkata and tried to move ahead. Went a couple Kms that way but after that it was dead stop as we could not find a way to squeeze past the trucks ahead. We stopped, thinking what to do as the line was not moving at all and I clicked some pics there.

The truck pile ahead


The pile that we left behind


And the empty road the other side


Finally we found and laid down a couple of bricks on both side of the divider, crossed it, stopped, removed the bricks from the road like any sensible rider should and rode away. The tar was real good, cool morning breeze was sweeping over my face as I raised the visor of my helmet and I zoomed ahead. This part of the road lies in Bihar and we were astonished at the superb condition. Just before Kishenganj we faced another hurdle. There’s a railway line to cross and a bridge is being built over it and hence one side (the side we were riding then) is blocked and hence the pileup as this side there’s no road at all and vehicles from both side are crossing one by one. Here my fellow riders just moved ahead with the line. I was reluctant to go that way, so I did a little go-seek. I found out a small narrow approach among all the building materials lying scattered over the bridge being built and wishing myself luck I moved ahead. After putting all my riding skills at test I was able to cross over the bridge itself and moved ahead. It saved me valuable time as only near Bagdogra the other two were able to catch up with me with their much faster rides. I rode on, reached Islampur, took a butt break, had some chocolates, drank some water and again moved ahead. After some time I had to stop again as there starts this road, pure concrete marvel at one side and neat tar at the other hand. I could not stop myself from clicking some pics.

At the side of the road, the first sign of Tea cultivation




The concrete marvel






And the tar at the other side


Anyway, from here on it was smooth ride most of the time even though such roads did not last long and we reached Silliguri at about 11.15 a.m. thanks to the longest pile up of trucks that I have ever seen in my life!! At Silliguri we had to search for the Bajaj Probiking and finally at about 12 we landed up there. I won’t go into the technicalities, just that there was some problem with the front fork of the P220 and Oil-filter with the P200 and it would take some time. So here after mutual discussion I decided to move on and reach Kalimpong and get a hotel room booked for us. I searched for some time for a petrol pump which will take Credit Card and filled up and finally were on my way at 1.30 p.m.

At one point I thought why go to Kalimpong since I wanted to check the road to Silliguri and that I did and even if I go there I will have to start next day morning to reach Kolkata on 17th. But then the mountain lover inside me rebuked me for such a thought. I have rode so long and that the hills are just up ahead I should be there even if it’s for some hours. Can’t ignore the hills, it’s in my gene.

The road to Kalimpong in the beginning is the same one that goes to Darjeeling and Gangtok. It, at later points, branch out to these destinations and the other one goes to Kalimpong. The first stretch of this road is called Sevoke Road and it passes thorugh dense forests on both sides with occasional Army camps. This road is undoubtedly the best road I have ever rode, not because of just the road but because of the surroundings, the entire ambience.

Here it lies


Even my ride is glad to see it


Well, from now on, I won’t write much, will post a few pics with some narrations. The ride was wonderful, riding through all the greenery with river Teesta beside me all the way up till Teesta bridge where the last stretch of 15 kms to Kalimpong begins.

The first sight of the hills


River Teesta






Road ahead




A dam being built somewhere on Teesta. Now don’t shout, there was no board


There were bad roads at stretches but also the effort to repair was on sight


Tired workers and a tired machine


I just loved the greenery all around


I loved the sky too, may not be as colorful as Ladakh but still




The final stretch of 15 Kms to Kalimpong is just superb. The entire way is full of steep hairpin bends and here I was wishing for a little more power under my service. I should have stopped somewhere and clicked but I was becoming worried as the bike was showing signs of fatigue and I became worried that if I stop I may not be able to start her again. So I did not stop anywhere and reached Kalimpong at about 3.30 p.m. Went straight ahead to Hotel Garden Reach where I have stayed before also. This hotel was a nice and cozy one before and with time has flourished. Seen a new 4 storey building which I did not bother to check as I was sure that every room will be upwards of Rs. 1000. So I checked the old building where I managed to get a double bed room with attached bath fitted with geyser and the manager agreed to put up an extra cot in the room. Asked for Rs. 875/=, I managed to make him agree for Rs. 600/=, that was all that I could do at such tired state. Ordered a beer and Rice n Chicken, SMS-ed my friends the hotel name and room no. and dozed off.

Here’s the room


Woke up at 9 !!! Still no sign of them. Tried calling but heard “switched off”. So thought about taking a spin at night and went out. Surprisingly all the shops were closed at that time!! Previously I have seen them remaining open till 10 at night, must have something to do with the present problems at the Hills.

The main road at night


Finally after some time those two arrived and we went to sleep straightaway. Tomorrow again it’s gonna be hard riding on the dreaded NH34.

To Be Continued……..

Last edited by abhi1975 : 25-08-08 at 12:15 AM.
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Old 24-08-08, 08:33 PM   #7
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Re: A Ride Across West Bengal
Has been read and thouroughly approved!

... please carry on! ..........
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Old 25-08-08, 10:04 AM   #8
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Re: A Ride Across West Bengal
Abhi, your photos have come out really good.... & enjoying the way of your writing...
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Old 26-08-08, 04:11 PM   #9
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Re: A Ride Across West Bengal
Abhi, loved the pictures, especially those of the Teesta; brought back memories of frequent trips to the Dooars (and not so frequent ones to Kalimpong) - God, that was almost a lifetime ago (siggghhh)
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Old 26-08-08, 11:19 PM   #10
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Re: A Ride Across West Bengal
Abhi, lovely photographs and wonderfully written. Regarding trucks and their high beams, you just witnessed why we love the Avenger coil thing so much .

Btw, how was braking on the concrete road?
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