The lonely highlands of Lahaul and Spiti

[koolharry]

Hi Guys,

I would like to share few pictures and the travelogue of our short trip to Himachal, last september. Our journey to Himachal began on 26th September 2008 -- with my younger brother and cousin joining me.

Day 1, 2 and 3 - Rail journey from Chennai to New Delhi

Heart raced a beat faster, as we set off to Chennai central in the local EMU, dreaming of fresh, cool mountain air and inspiring views of the Himalayas.

We reached Chennai Central at 21:35 and found ourselves in the comforts of a Brand new A2 coach. All three of us had side berths, which mean we would have the track side window seats through the 33 hours journey. Our train was powered by the Erode Shed's WAP-4 class loco #22220. Sharp at 22:00 hrs the starter turned amber and we left Chennai Central, slowly making our way out of the city. A fellow passenger requested my side lower berth in exchange to her upper berth as she could not able to climb up and for this we readily agreed. As it was pretty dark outside and with nothing much to see outside, I headed on to the upper berth; Vasanth took the side upper and Kiran taking the other side lower berth. After hearing music for few minutes, slept off for the rest of the night.

At the crack of dawn I was at the door, watching the sun breaking out of the cloud cover as we sped past the legendary fort of Warangal, kazipet bye-pass and thundered towards the mighty Godavari awaited us in full spate at the outskirts of Ramagundam. We went through Ramagundam pretty fast and soon crossed the long bridge across the Godavari.

I was waiting for the 90 degree curve outside Sewagram and even before I could realize, we were banking along the curve and I missed a chance to take a photograph with the 2621 on the curve. We reached Nagpur with the delay of 35 minutes and after a brief halt, we left.


2621 Tamilnadu Express swiftly negotiating the 90 degree curve outside Sewagram

After some non-stop run we reached Teegaon, where an Itarsi Shed's WAG-7 class loco banked us across the 13km long Ghat section, which culminates at Chinchoda. The ride till the next station, Chichonda, was very scenic as the train snaked through the Vindhyas - innumerable curves; two tunnels and a catch sliding. At Chichonda, the banker was left behind, as we continued our journey towards Itarsi.


We bid good bye to WAG-7 from Itarsi Shed which banked our train across the Ghat section

For those who are not award of the Banker Operation in Indian Railways - An extra loco, usually equipped with emergency brake system, will be added at the rear end, to take train across a steep ghat section. The 13 kilometer ghat section between Teegaon and Chichonda entitles banking operation for a passenger train exceeding 18 coaches in length.
The daylight was fading out pretty fast as we crossed few more tunnels, between Betul and Ghoradongri. We reached Itarsi at 17.15 hrs, early by 15 minutes and left on schedule.


The sun was very close to horizon, as we crossed 5 more tunnels, between Betul and Ghoradongri

Dinner - 2 rotis, yellow dal, rice and potato curry, was served at Bhopal, which we devoured as the train tore through the darkness of a new-moon day. I took the lower Side berth and slept for most of the time except for few big stations like Jhansi and Agra.

As the day-light ascended, we found ourselves rushing past the suburban station of Palwal... We slowed down after faridabad and progressed at snail’s pace to New Delhi and reached on PF15 at 08:40.
Day - 3 New Delhi to Amritsar - Paschim ExpressWe freshened up in the upper class waiting hall, had hot Poori Bhajji for the breakfast and waited for our connecting train (Paschim Express) to Amritsar, which came in Platform No. 6 at 12:05 and left at 12:35. The Paschim was headed by Ghaziabad Shed's WAP-7 class loco # 30235. Incidentaly, this loco was Ghaziabad's new arrival.

Ghazi's latest arrival, WAP-7 #30235 powering the Bandra Terminus - Amritsar Junction Paschim Express takes a breather at Ambala Cantt.

We negotiated the innumerous points and curves and soon were galloping past the shabby outskirts of Delhi. After Sonipet, cement and concrete gave way to lush green fields, pretty trees, mustard plants with yellow tops and a clear blue sky.

We sped through the country side of Haryana and headed further in North-west direction, where the brilliance of Punjab’s myriad images of swaying emerald green fields unfolded! The land of five rivers was filled with yellow fields and blue mountains at the backdrop, adding to the charm. Every now and then a stream or a canal, with crispy clean water divided the fields.

We crossed important stations like Ambala, Jalandhar, Ludhiana and reached Amritsar at 19:40. We cloacked the luggages in the station and hired an Auto-rickshaw to the Golden Temple. The Auto Walla charged us Rs.40 for the short trip to temple. We made our way through a crowded lane and presented ourselves in front of the stunning sanctum, shining in the water of the holy tank of Amrit Sarovar. The temple is flanked by marble walkways and pavements, adding to the charm. The temple building is three storeys high and is crowned with a Golden Dome shaped like an inverted lotus. The temple was heavily crowded and we could not enter the main sanctum, but spent the next couple of hours walking along the pavements while sinking in its beauty.


The stunning sanctum of Golden Temple, shining in the water of the holy tank of Amrit Sarovar

We then walked back to the railway station and had vegetarian Punjabi food for dinner, before hitting the station. The train which would take us to Pathankot was scheduled to arrive at 01:05 and we had plenty of time in the station. Tired of travelling and with nothing much to do at this hour, we waited for our train's arrival. The platform no. 2, where the train was scheduled to arrive was very crowded and with no seats available, we used the foot-over stair-case. The wait became longer and longer, and no sign of our train's arrival. I walked the length and breadth of the station twice and observed a shunting loco was busy shutting the rakes of Paschim and Dadar - Amritsar Express.

Finally at around 02:35, a Bhagat Ki Koti WDM2 brought in the Bhatinda – Jammutawi Express into platform no. 2 and we boarded the sleeper coach and found our berths were already occupied by unreserved passengers. We humbly requested them to vacate the berths and settled down. The loco did a lazy run-around, attached to the other end of the train and we headed out from Amritsar in the reverse direction. Lower berth in the train proved very uncomfortable and after a sleepless journey for the next 3 hours, reached the beautiful station of Pathankot Junction.

Day 4 - Kangra Valley Railways

[Salil]

Your travelogue, so far is as enchanting as the Kangra valley railway. And I think this is being covered for the first time on BCMTouring. Thanks. Lovely photos, though you haven't even reached a point where I normaly take out my camera and begin shooting! Can't wait to see and read more.

[Yogesh Sarkar]

Fantastic photographs Harish, do post more photographs of the train journey if possible.

[anupmathur]

Koolharry, this promises to be really good!
Lovely so far!

[koolharry]

Day 4 - Kangra Valley Railways

The rail journey between Pathankot and Baijnath

Kangra Valley Railways is one of the 5 mountain railways in India. The Narrow Gauge Railway line runs between Pathankot Junction of Punjab and Jogindernagar of Himachal Pradesh. We brought our tickets upto Baijnath by 3PB Passenger Service which was scheduled to depart at 07:00 hrs. We found vacant seats in the 3rd coach and settled down.

With not a single cloud to obstruct its rays, the sun rose upon the beautiful little town of Pathankot, as more and more passengers started filling the train.


The copper disk glowed softly over the beautiful little town of Pathankot.


ZDM-3 #179 of Pathankot Shed is ready to take 3PB Passenger to Baijnath Paprola

Starter was given and after a sharp toot, we left Pathankot at 7.00 am. The journey began by cutting through the built up areas of Pathankot town. After a long spell of continuous hooting we rid off the town and out into the countryside with the National Highway giving us company on our left.

The national highway disappeared just short of Dalhousie Road. The first crossing of the day begin here, as the Pathankot bound 2PB Services showed up after making us to wait for nearly 15 minutes. There was a halt station every 30 minutes and the second crossing was at Jawanwallah Shahr where to next train towards Pathankot was waiting for us to cross. After Jawanwallah, our train started its ascent into Himachal. We were travelling through an intrinsically mountainous region; innumerous streams with sparkling clean water; the landscape was extremely beautiful.


One of the many crossings of the day

The Kangra valley railway is ample proof of how railway engineers can create a work in harmony with nature. This they have done without destroying the grandeur of the mountain, and at the same time, revealing to the traveler, an enchanted fairyland. Courtesy: Indian Railways


Keeping hormany with the nature, the Kangra Valley Railways offers such scenic treats

At Jwalamukhi road, the train almost emptied out and this is where the landscape changed dramatically. The most picturesque parts of the valley are exposed to the view - the tremendous depth of the gorges through which the sparkling water of Ban Ganga tear its way to the Great Plains of India.

Certainly the scenery through which the train passes is ample compensation for the extra distance covered as compared to getting to Baijnath by road.


Out from the mouth of the jungle, we passed through a stunning curved bridge

As we approached Palampur Himachal, the ever-present background of snowy chain peaks, which was only a few miles away, was barely visible due to gloomy weather. From Palampur to Baijnath the railway line runs almost on a plain.


Calm atmosphere of Palampur Himachal. Very apparent that we've come far from the bustling stations in cities

Baijnath Paprola was reached at 14:30 hrs, a delay by an hour. We walked up to the road and took a bus to the town of Baijnath, where another bus to Mandi was ready to depart. After an uncomfortable bus journey, reached Mandi at 18:40.

By the time we reached Mandi, we were far too tired and scruffy. We decided to stay back for the night in Mandi and would proceed to Manali the next morning. After a short walk across the bridge, we found a decent room, where we freshened up and went for a little stroll. We booked a cab that would take us to Manali the next day, walked to a Dhaba near our hotel, had delicious Punjabi food and crashed down for the night.

Day 5 - Mandi to Manali

[Yogesh Sarkar]

Beautiful photographs, too bad you couldn't make it to Chandratal, else we would have been treated with even more beautiful photographs

[pushpinder]

wow!!!!

rgds

[koolharry]

Day 5 - Mandi to Manali

Woke up at 08:00 and hurriedly got ready, as we asked the cab to pick us up at 09:00. Cab arrived at 09:15 and we soon headed to Manali. Our cab made its way along the banks of Beas that flowed in the opposite direction in a great hurry. From our car, we could hear the gurgle of slightly turquoise and transparent water rushing down the valley. The river bed was littered with boulders of all sizes. It is such an inviting view that, we stopped every now and then to check out the valley.


River Beas and the valley of Kullu

The temperature dipped slowly as we gained altitude. The Kullu valley was waiting for us in full spate with its beautiful mountain slopes and fresh green carpets that is interspersed with a thick green forest cover and very tall deodar trees. The road kept climbing up offering a splendid view of white washed summits and tall trees.

The road between Kullu and Manali was lined up with Resorts and camps, densely packed. Shortly after 12:00 we reached the tourist town of Manali, which is surrounded by towering snow capped peaks with rocky slopes and Alpine forests below it. We found shelter in Hotel Pine view which charged us Rs.400 for a standard room. After lunch, the second half a day was spent by wandering through the town and booking a cab that would take us through Lahaul / Spiti and back. After much negotiation, we settled down for Rs.13,000/-.

Day 6 - Manali to Kaza

[koolharry]

Day 6 - Manali to Kaza - Magical Mountains of Lahaul Valley

It was still dark and cold and the incessant beeping noise turned out to be the alarm on my mobile phone. After shutting it down, I lay in bed for a few more minutes. Finally, I got up groggily; it was 05:10 AM on 30th September 2008. We had less than an hour to get ready, as we were to leave at 06:00 to beat the traffic jam on the way up towards Rohtang.
Toyota Qualis will be our mode of transport for the next 3 days and the driver introduced himself as Suresh and he belongs to Kullu. Leaving Manali at 07:00, we made our way up to Rohtang Pass which was at around 13, 050 feet ASL.

The road to Rohtang was filled with rows and rows of Shops offering you a variety of Snow Jackets and Skii Suits.


Colorful Jackets that decorated the road to Solang Valley and Rohtang Pass


Towering snow capped peaks enroute to Rohtang

We gained altitude rapidly and I let out my face through the window savoring the post dawn chill and enjoyed the feeling of the cold air burning up my nostrils.

We stopped at Kothi for the breakfast where we had delicious Aloo Paratha and Puri Bhaaji. After Kothi, I observed that the Border Road Organization (BPO) was in brisk action, doubling up the road upto Rohtang. The dusty and rusty roads, streams running across the road were all we encountered all the way up to Rohtang.


Bad stretch of roads on the way up towards Rohtang Pass


Steep climb enroute Rohtang

Rohtang Pass was reached at 09:30, and it was a complete contrast to what I saw during my previous visit. Dirty, icy floors with millions of peoples walking, skiing and riding, is now a clean, deserted mountain Pass. May be we were too early for the tourist to hit this place.


Rohtang Pass at 09:30. Also note the Igloo type Temple of Goddess Beas



View from top of Rohtang towards the valley of River Chandra

At the Rohtang top, a sign board greeted us into the highlands of Lahaul valley, to witness the exotic charm in offer. Rohtang separates Kullu, from the mountain district of Lahaul and Spiti. Beyond Rohtang, you would come across higher, inaccessible passes and plateaus that are referred to as the roof of the world, where no one but the most adventurous would dare to set his foot. The upper regions have an aura that brings in the souls seeking the road less travelled and the ones looking for an escapede to timelessness.

We slowly beign descending down through snow clogged roads towards Gramphu. The air gradually become crisper and clearer as we got going.


Snow clogged roads that leads to Gramphu and further to Keylong and Leh

Gramphu had couple of Dhabas, and this is the place where the road to Keylong/Leh and Kaza splits. The distance board indicated 51 KM to Keylong and 137 KM to Kaza.


No! Not a vennila ice-cream with chocolate chips...

Without a halt in Gramphu, we took the road on the right to Kaza and continued to roll alongside the on-coming Chandra river with high snow peaks on either side feeding the river with numerous snow-fed streams.

Travelling at an average height of 4,000 metres (around 13,000 feet) and driving through knee-deep streams, many of which cut across the dirt-tracks , was an awe-inspiring experience. As we continued further, the road condition became bad; loose and tender soil and more boulders on the road. It became even worse as we drove further and further down the valley, and seemingly far, far away from civilization. The road was fit only for tougher vehicles and an expert driver. Our driver (Mr.Suresh) navigated the ruts and boulders with uncommon skill, several times passing through sections which were so loose, that any error in judgement would take us down the slopes in a hurry.


Dangerous road that stretches along the very young mountain slopes, which would collapse with slightest of disturbances

We descended down to the base of the valley to cut across a bridge and reached Chhathru. Here, we were treated with a much deserved glass of hot chai and were joined by an Israeli Tourist who were also heading to Chandertal. The driver of the other cab, turned out to be Suresh's friend and they decided to follow us to Chandratal and further to kaza. After a 30 minutes halt, we set off towards the next village, Batal. On the way we found that camp sites are available for trekkers and travellers in Chhathru, Chota Dhara and Batal.


The road to heaven?

Towering snow peaks, painted blue sky, fresh & transparent waters of Chandra kept us company through the journey. As we neared Batal, the density of snow increased and at few places, the road was cleared off 10 feets of snow.


The road was cleared off about 10 feets of snow.


The glaciers of the great Kumzum range goes on and on


Its blue, its white... its everywhere! Reached heaven?


More white... more blue...


Chandra Dhaba - Batal


Chacha ji and Chachi ji


Scrumptious meal!

While chatting with Chachi ji, we were informed that they were able to save atleast 15 persons, when the region experienced heavy snowfall just 2 weeks ago. After clicking pictures of Uncle Ji and Aunty Ji, we bid good byes and proceed towards Kumzam Pass...

..read more on the journey to Kunzam and Spiti

[Salil]

Is it just me or is there a problem with the Pics? Can't see them anymore.