THE THREE MUSKETEERS
One year back a big group from BCMT had visited the Ladakh & Kashmir valley and I was part of it. Due to time constraint we had to skip few places and so then and there only I had decided to come back next year itself. Coming back from the Seventh Heaven was not an easy task as your body does come back but the mind remains there only. My experience during reading lot of logs and viewing lot of photographs of different people had always made me feel Oh ! why did not I see that place, Shuks ! why did not I clicked this view. That place makes you feel every time that you have come for the first time or you are viewing this for the first time.
I and a friend of mine Pritam had already decided to visit Ladakh in September, one fine day got a call from Umesh, who was also part of our previous years trip and asked me about my plans – finally he also decided to join us. We had decided that except Leh and Kargil we shall not be staying in any Hotel and shall pitch our own tents and cook our own food. Initially the idea was to ride from Srinagar side visit Zanskar first reach Leh do Nubra Valley, back to Leh, visit Pangong Tso, conquer Marsmik La and ride through Lukung to Chushul to Hanle and reach Tso Moriri, Pang, Manali and back, but due to the problems at Srinagar side the plan changed. We were to leave Jaipur on 30/8/08 and so Umesh started on his Unicorn right from Mumbai on 25/8/08. His first stop was Ahemdabad. 26/8/08 he reached Udaipur and stayed there on 27/8/08 also. He came to Jaipur on 29/8/08. In the meantime Pritam had a situation at his home and so decided to join us at Leh later. Me and Umesh were all busy on 30/8/08 in shopping. We bought lots of Ready to eat food packets, soup packets and all other stuff. The packing started at 2200 hrs and went to sleep at 0000 hrs. – hmmm… adventure is about to begin.
DAY – 1 ( 31/8/08 ) Jaipur to Ropar
We started early morning at 0500 hrs instead of 0400 hrs, as it is difficult to wake up Umesh (all those who were together last year will agree to it), anyways the ride had started. Initially it was becoming very difficult for me to ride as I had lots of stuff on my bike. 103 kgs of me (have reduced 10 kgs from last year) and 87 kgs of luggage. Our first stop was near Kotputli at A1 plaza at 0700 hrs. We ate our breakfast and were back on the road by 0800 hrs. We had just crossed Kotputli and my speedometer had stopped working. Had one more break for Water and Dhuaan. We were able to cross Delhi by 1330 hrs and had started feeling the urge for food, so stopped at Gulshan Dhaba (not the popular one, which we came to know later). Food and some rest and were on the move, Though our destination for the day was Bilaspur, bust just because of the confusion near Chandigarh we wasted some time and so we stopped at Ropar itself. The heat compelled us to shell out more money and take an AC room. The room was decent and we paid Rs. 800.00 for it.
DAY – 2 ( 1/9/08 ) Ropar to Manali
We started at 0800 hrs and were able to hit the hills by 0930 hrs. There was a big smile on our face. We stopped at a hotel for our breakfast just after Bilaspur. The view was amazing from here. During the breakfast got a call from Pritam that he shall be joining us on the 10/9/08, so me and Umesh got into the discussion about what to do next. We then decided that we shall move towards Kargil from Leh and then do the rest of the places. Anyways we stopped at lots of places and kept riding. The breakfast itself was like having lunch so no stop for a long period was taken. Just before Kullu there is a place where you can be very close to River Beas, so we stopped over there for almost an hour. We reached Manali at 2000 hrs. and at the toll itself we met a person who was ready to give us a room with all the facilities in Rs. 400.00. We first went to see the room, situated in Model Town, very close to the Mall road. The room was very big and good one. Umesh was still able to negotiate with the person and finally settled for Rs. 350.00. After having a shower we sat with our Drinks. Last year same day we ( Manik, Eric, DJ, Sparsh, Deepan, Shamik, Suyash,) (Yogesh, Nilesh & Umesh had joined us late night) were here and had celebrated Vivek Sir’s birthday. Called Vivek sir and wished him. We did go to the market but finally decided to have dinner at the hotel itself. The person was able to serve us very simple food. Any ways dozed off.
DAY – 3 ( 2/9/08 ) At Manali
Was waken by a call from Manik. Morning as usual Umesh got up at 1100 hrs. After getting ready we went to the Mall Road and as decided earlier we went to a Tibetan restaurant. I ordered for Talumin non – veg. soup with Mutton Moh – Mos and Umesh had ordered for some vegetarian soup and veg. Moh – Mos. We were discussing that what else we are suppose to order after this. We were surprised rather shocked when the soup was placed in front of us – a big bowl and then we were almost dead when we got the dish with 12 huge Moh – Mos in front of us. I then first ate Moh – Mos and so had to leave almost half of the soup. Umesh did a smart thing, he first ate the soup and got the Moh – Mos packed. The rest of the day was spent at Manali only. Got our bikes tanked up. I carried some extra fuel with me. Slept early 2200 hrs. to get up early.
DAY – 4 ( 3/9/08 ) Manali to Darcha
Woke up at 0600 hrs and worked like a Dozer to get that Sleepy head on his toes. It took us almost one and half hour to get ready, pack the stuff and mount on the Bikes. After settling down the bills we started off towards Rohtang. The Roads were in bad shape Though we heard that it has not rained past 1 week there was lot of Slush and as the work for broadening the road was going on major of the tarmac was scraped off. I got stucked behind a tanker who was much adamant on not providing the side. It so happened that at one corner there was lot of slush with a steep climb, now this bugger broke his speed and started coming back, I almost yelled and started blowing the horn. He stopped, I took a u turn and gave him space to restart. Reached Marhi around 11 and after having breakfast we moved towards Rohtang. There was a landslide and was being cleared by the Dozer. It took almost one and a half hour. There was a group of college boys from Kerela. Few of them came to me and requested me if they can take their photograph with my bike, I allowed them but then had to stop after five people as the number was growing from 7 to 28. Though the slush was cleared but still lot of it remained, we were lucky as we were in the front and there was a big line behind us. Umesh got a bit stucked in that but was finally able to make it. There was no point in stopping at the Top as we knew that lot of traffic is behind us and this place is going to be crowded. We kept riding downhill, the view had changed, last year it was cloudy towards Manali side and this time we saw it the vice versa. We saw lot of Snow peaks which were not there last year. We stopped at Khoksar as we were carrying some wet clothes. After about an hour we started again. The view was amazing and at no point did I feel that I have seen this place earlier. We were riding slow as the road condition was bad. Bridge (s) have been made at maximum of the water crossings. Even the water crossing where Sparsh got stucked last year near Keylong does not exists. The weather was changing its as well as our mood and we could feel the darkness around 1700 hrs. earlier we had decided to pitch our own tent, but keeping in view the weather condition and that we wont be able to cook food we decided to stay in the same tent as of last year (Reva Guest House) and same cost. 1800 hrs we reached Darcha, after having a soup we unloaded our stuff and packed ourselves into the quilt. It had started raining and it did not stop till the morning next day. Dal Tarka, Mixed Vegetable with Roti was our dinner after gulping some coloured water. We dozed off.
DAY – 5 ( 4/9/08 ) Darcha to Sarchu
Morning when we got up it was drizzling, we got ready packed our stuff and started off for Pang after having our Breakfast. The roads again were in bad shape and lot of times we got into the bumps and pot holes. We stopped at a waterfall cum water crossing for some snaps, there we met Fabius, Kunal ( Godfather), Ritesh as pillion ( this chap was working towards creating a Guinness record). From here we almost rode together. It was getting colder and colder, we were able to understand it later when we saw some snow at the roadsides. I was wondering Snow here ? during this time but the shock came to me when I saw huge snow while moving further. As and as we were getting close to Baralacha La the quantum of snow was increasing. After some time the visibility was getting poorer and poorer, there was fog all around us and even at few places snow was on the roads. We did stop at the La though were not able to stay for long because of the chilling winds. When we were approaching down we could see snow even on the river bed. And yes the roads during the climb were fantastic. Even Zingzingbar the roads were 2 lane with very newly laid tarmac. We reached Sarchu around 1400 hrs, I suggested Umesh that we stay here only to which he agreed. We pitched our tent after finding a suitable place along a huge Rock. I left to fetch some water and in the meantime Umesh stuffed the luggage in the tent, which occupied 1 persons space. We sat in the tent and started with our drinks with a plan that we shall cook our food by 1800 hrs and go to sleep. It was a bit tiring as there was not much space inside and it was difficult sitting outside as the winds were strong and chilling. Anyways we took out our stove, pan to boil the water and cook soup and vegetable Biryani. With almost half an hour of efforts we were unable to light the stove, the winds were so strong that we got frustrated and decided to have bread, which I got from Sarchu, with cheese. We were trembling with cold and so immediately entered into our sleeping bags. It took almost an hour to come to a almost normal state, none of us had the strength to come out of the sleeping bags, even to have dinner. We lived on the breakfast only which we had at Darcha. Night even the sleeping bags were of no use, we wanted to go for loo but did not had the strength to come out the tents, finally when it was unmanageable we came out of the tent and we were almost frozen within 3 to 4 mts. Umesh had to wear 4 pairs of socks and what not.
DAY – 6 ( 5/9/08 ) Sarchu to Leh
Anyways night got over, but we came out of the tent only after the Sun was visible. The winds were still very strong. Somehow managed to stuff the tent back into the cover and rushed to Sarchu check post where we ate our breakfast – which was a big relief to our tummy. From here we made up our mind to take less breaks so that we reach Leh today. We decided that as we are to come back on the same route we shall not be clicking photographs now and shall do it later. I refilled the Tank with petrol. We just rode and rode mesmerizing the spots which needed to be clicked while coming back. Gata loops and both the La’s were done without taking a break. We were stopped by a TCP where he noted our registration nos. To my surprise there were no Dhabas there. We stayed there last year. I asked the TCP and he told that the level of the river had risen so all of them have shifted further and you shall find them after a KM at the Army base. Reached there around 1430 hrs where we met Fabious, Kunal and Ritesh who had a very different story to tell us. They encountered heavy rains and irrespective of Rainwear and protection gear they were wet, it was very cold and above all they were hit by AMS. Their entire luggage was soaked. Right decision we took by staying at Sarchu. We started together from here. More planes were amazing as ever with total off roads ( sand and sand ) every where. It was sunny but the winds were very cold. The weather had again started changing its mood and I was a bit worried while climbing Tanglang La. Finally we reached the top around 1700 hrs, stopped there for just 2 to 3 mts and moved off as it was very very cold over there. The roads downhill were the worst now and we had to be very careful. We managed to reach down and it was almost dark, we were compelled to stop for coffee. It was pitch dark now but we continued our journey and reached Leh by 2000 hrs. We entered the city from the main market side and approached towards the same hotel Sun and Sand situated at Cangspa. To our surprise the road was closed as the Bridge (where Uncle Umesh had created history last year) was broken and now a new cemented bridge is under construction) we went back and had to reach the hotel through another side. Again we got a shock, at the hotel. The owner had sold it to someone else and the new owner is not much willing to operate it, I told him that every year we stay at this place and another 12 bikes shall be there in another 4 to 5 days, so he agreed to give us the room in the same tariff as of last year. It was 2130 hrs now & we knew that the restaurants close down around 2200 hrs, we wanted a shower as well & we were very hungry. So it was decided that let us get something packed first and then settle down. We went to Jeevan Café (earlier know as Book Lovers Paradise) got a pizza for me and Pasta for Umesh, came back, had a nice shower after 03 days, enjoyed our drink but not the dinner as it was packed in Aluminium foils and everything got soggy. The night was very cold.
DAY – 7 ( 6/9/08 ) Leh
What a lazy day to start, got up at 1000 hrs & after half an hour we were out for breakfast, we were so hungry that we never taught of going else were and had our breakfast at Jeevan’s – American breakfast. Gave call to Pritam and found that they started from Delhi on 5/10/08, stopped at Solan and are right now on the way to Manali. I told him that today we shall get are bikes serviced and tomorrow move to Kargil. We after finishing our breakfast picked our Bikes and got it serviced. It took us 3 hrs. in getting them washed and then as Umesh had some technical problems also so we took it to a mechanic at Airport road. Smartest mechanic I ever saw – you tell him the problem, he will open a part then move to another bike and so on, the moment you say something to him he will come back do some fiddling and then again take some other bike. Another 4 hrs. wasted here . But in the meantime we were able to find out there was a heavy rainfall towards Kargil with Landslide. We came back to main market and along with some Samosas (as our favorite German Bakery is closed now & a Complex is being built over there) discussed and decided that we shall tomorrow visit the Monestries around Leh and not move to Kargil. We also met the three new friends. Only Fabious was interested in visiting the Monestries. Though they had taken the permits for K top but were also briefed by a local guide that right know the route is closed and no two wheelers are allowed ahead of South Pallu. We called the day off.
DAY – 8 ( 7/9/08 ) Leh and around
As decide we met Fabious at the main Market, after having breakfast, we left for Thiksey. I got a call from Pritam around 1130 hrs. who told me that Rohtang is in bad shape and they are stucked in a jam. We had spent almost four hours at Thiksey and then it was decided that we now go to Hemis. We stopped at Karu for our Lunch (the favorite Dhaba of Yogesh). The weather was changing from now. We hogged our food and preferred not to go to Hemis and rather rush back to Leh. We rode fast and reached Leh, it had started drizzling. We met Kunal & Ritesh here who had decided to ride back to Mumbai via Manali. Umesh also got a call from Mumbai and wanted to go back, so the three decided that they shall leave Leh tomorrow and Fabious will shift with me in the Hotel. Me and Fabious decided to go to Nubra on 9/9/08. We heard that today there is going to be a Camel road show and so we all were desperately waiting for the same which never happened. It rained in the night.
DAY – 9 ( 8/9/08 ) Leh
Morning we all met at the main Market. Kunal, Umesh and Ritesh left and me and Fabious after having Breakfast went to the DC office for Permits. We decided that after the Permits we shall go to the Magnetic hill. There was no Sun today and it was very Cold. Last year during this time only it was not that cold and I used to be in a T – shirt only. I was not carrying woolens and so after taking the permit for K top and Nubra we first went to the market. It was raining. I had to spent Rs. 4,500.00 in buying a Jacket, Cloves, cap and socks. The rains had stopped and so we left for magnetic hill, we had just reached Indus view point that the weather took a very bad shape and so we decided to come back. It was a bad idea to get wet in the rains with such cold over there. Fabious had a fall near Jaipur while coming from Mumbai and had a burn on his leg. It was in pretty bad shape so we first went to the city hospital where he god the dressing done. It had started raining and even after waiting for hours it did not stop. So we decided to get wet and rush to the Hotel. Wet and shivering we reached the hotel and immediately changed our clothes. Rum was the lifesaver. We decided to leave our luggage with the hotel person only and carry only the essential stuff for a 2 day visit to Nubra. Did our packing accordingly had our dinner and dozed off.
DAY – 10 ( 9/9/08 ) Leh to Kardung La
Morning we loaded our bikes and started for K top. The day was sunny and it had not rained the entire night. As and as we were climbing it was getting very cold. For the first time in my life I was feeling jealous from the four wheelers, as they were sitting very comfortably with all windows closed. We encountered snow at the road sides before South Pallu. At South Pallu we asked the TCP about the situation at the top and he said may be you will find some difficulty as there is still snow over there and now it is melting. But we were allowed to go and so we started the final climb. The road condition after South Pallu was not good. We encountered snow on the road with slush much before India Gate. As and as we approached further the winds, the chilling factor and above all the road which was full with snow and slush was making our ride more difficult. Irrespective of the fact that lot of four wheelers were on move the snow was still there. Ahead of India gate was a jam. Fabious was no where in the site, he was far behind, I was worried – but had no option then to climb further as I was unable to take a U turn. My feet were buried in the snow above the ankle. The traffic started moving, the bike was definitely negotiating the slush and snow but at times could feel the slip. Finally reached the top with great difficulty and definitely fear of falling in the valley. The best part was that I never had to push the bike with my legs and it climbed to the top in 2nd gear. It was jam packed at the top. I parked the bike and rushed to see where Fabious is and yes I could see him approaching the top. We rushed to the canteen and asked him to give us Tea, had some tea with biscuits as we did not had our breakfast. After having 2 rounds of tea we started enquiring about the situation of the other side i.e. North Pallu. A convoy had just come from North Pallu side and was led by Maj. Ajay Shekhawat. So this Major is from Alwar and we started talking. When I said that we wish to go to Hunder, first he said yes we can, but then he warned drive very slow. Then I told him that we are on Bikes, his immediate reaction was that are you fools, do you know that the situation on the other side is worse. He told us that even Army trucks and jeeps are moving with chains. He said that it you should not do it, he also gave us the information that just 4 days back two Turners had slipped down. We were very horrified and de - motivated with this and so we decided not to push ahead. We started back for Leh. Major helped us here also, firstly he wanted to load the bikes on the turner and take us with him to South pallu. We were adamant that we shall ride back. So he then agreed that first his two trucks will move then we shall be in between and he shall follow us in his jeep. Down hill was more difficult, irrespective of the trucks clearing lot of snow. Fabious had three falls. Then as the roads from South Pallu were better we thanked Major for his support. My bike refused to start and after trying all the possibilities we reached to the conclusion that let us change the spark plug once though the present spark plug was giving current. It immediately roared on changing the spark plug. The original spark plug was kept with me as a memory. It served me for 4 years. We reached Leh at 1400 hrs and had lunch. We were discussing as to what next, should we try Chang la or wait for Pritam to come. Finally we reached the conclusion that we shall wait for Pritam and then decide what to do next. Called up Yogesh and apprised him of our condition, who was kind enough to go through some Weather sites and informed us that the condition is going to improve in another 2 days. Thanks pal we were motivated a lot.
DAY – 11 ( 10/9/08 ) Leh
We had nothing to do, so once again we planned to go to Magnetic hill. Today the weather was clear and it was a bright sunny morning. We left the hotel at 1000 hrs and had our breakfast. Then we went to magnetic hill and came back after having that wonderful experience. Fabious was very happy at Magnetic hill. I was not that excitied as had experienced it last year. Came back to Leh and as we had enough of the Leh market just went to the hotel and started knowing more about each other. All these days except name we knew nothing about each other. Fabious is working with Merchant Navy and has almost covered the globe. It was good hearing his experiences. Got, a call from Pritam around 2000 hrs. he was waiting for me at the main circle Petrol pump. Went, to pick him there. But he told that today he shall be with his friends. He had come along with his friends from 60 kph. Gaurav Jani on his Lonar and Sanjay Sharma along with his wife on T bird were his co riders. They had stopped at Rumtse and so we were waiting for them. They turned up at 2200 hrs. I came back to my hotel and after having dinner called the day off.
DAY – 12 ( 11/9/08 ) Leh
As decided me and Fabious met Pritam at the main market. We along with the breakfast discussed our experiences. Further we decided to move to Chang La on 13/9/08, and Pritam shall be doing K top on 12/9/08. We then went to the DC office. I met a person over there who was already instructed that we shall be coming and the permission far a particular route is to be issued. We were to do Leh to Chang La to Lukung to Chushul to Hanle to Tso Moriri to Tso Kar to Pang. After taking the permit and another permit for K top for Pritam we decided to have our lunch and then attent the premier show of Gaurav Jani’s “ A Ride to Heaven “ Though I have the DVD of it, but we went to the Auditorium which is situated near the DC office. We then met Gaurav over there. After the show we discussed our plan with Gaurav. He gave us few points which turned out to be very useful. He also told us that we shall be requiring at least 20 ltrs. of Petrol each bike. We left the Auditorim around 1900 hrs. and came to the hotel. Here then it was decided that Pritam will skip his ride for K top and shall prepare for the trip.
DAY – 13 ( 12/9/08 ) Leh
Morning Gaurav, Sanjay and his wife left for Zanskar and Pritam shifted to our hotel. We first went to Juma’s workshop – who gave us a warm welcome and attended to all small issues. He also gave us few tips, offered us some coffee. I already was carrying cans of 10 lts. Capacity each, Pritam had 2 cans of 5 lts. Capacity and Fabious had only 1 can of 5 lts. Capacity. We searched for more cans at the market first, then somebody suggested that we shall go to the big workshops and we did that. We got 03 cans of 5 ltrs. Now all the preparations were done, came back to hotel and did our packing. We all were very excited about the further trip and lot of discussions were going on. Finally we dozed off.
DAY – 14 ( 13/9/08 ) Leh to Lukung
After loading all the stuff we finally settled the bills, the owner gave his mobile nos. and said that we should come again next year and stay at the same hotel, which shall be renovated by then. After filling up at petrol pump we bid farewell to Leh with a promise of coming back soon. We stopped at Karu at the same Dhaba and had our breakfast cum Lunch. Chang La as per me is the toughest as compared to the other passes I have done. Though there was not much snow at the top but it was still very cold. We stayed there for almost an hour. Downhill the roads were in worse condition. My brakes again started giving fumes ( last year also at the same place had this problem). We stopped for around and hour and then proceeded to Pangong Tso. The route was beautiful and finally we were out of weathers cage and were riding. Pagal Nalla, I remember it, was entirely different then what it was last year. The bridge had broken and a new route has been made which has the water crossing. The bikes were full of luggage and we all required a push at a particular point, where it was a steep climb with loose gravel. This took our breath away and we were all breathing deeply. Just then a group of 5 riders came and instead of negotiating the route with tolerance they rushed, and the result was that the first one had a fall and the others were on top of him. But they were fast and before we could even make a move to go and help them they got up and started quarreling. We then started from here only to stop at the first view of Pangong Tso. After clicking some pics here we reached the lake around 1800 hrs. it was kind of dark, we settled at eco hut which we got for Rs. 400.00. this year all the eco huts have a proper bed with electricity (generator). We had coffee and did some late evening photography. It was a day before the full moon night. We wanted and waited to see the reflection of Moon in the lake, but could not. Here we got our own stuff made for dinner – vegetable Biryani.
DAY – 15 ( 14/9/08 ) Lukung to Chushul
Morning we all did some photography, and then started loading our bikes. We left for Chushul around 1130 hrs. The TCP at Spakmik stopped us, we provided our permits to him, with great surprise he asked how did you get these permits, and then allowed us to go, but were immediately stopped by another 5 persons and they again had the same question. One of them said we cannot allow you to go further. I told him the contact and gave him an Army no. and asked him to talk over there. They had some discussion among themselves and then allowed us to move further. Actually there is no road, you just follow the tyre tracks which have created a road. It is all gravel and quick sand with uncountable bumps. You cannot ride fast, atleast with so much luggage. View of Pangong Tso now onwards was much more beautiful as compared to what it was at Lukung. With lot of stops for photography we finally reached a point from where it enters China. The last click of the lake and we proceeded for Chushul. The black mountains could be seen which ment that the destination was near. Gaurav had told us that to enter in Chushul do not take the road towards right otherwise you will mess up with Army and then there is a probability that you won’t be allowed to ride further. As advised we took the left turn which was not even a Kuchha road it was a Marshy place but we were able to cross it without any mishap. Finally we reached the Police Station where we showed our permits. The person on duty was very co – operative and when we told him that we want to stay tonight, he told us that there is a Dak Banglow but the caretaker has gone somewhere, so in the meantime you rest in my room. He also provided us with his utensil and us Hungry people made Maggie in Tomato Soup. Yummy it was. In the meantime the caretaker had come and we got a room for 3 for 200 bucks and another 20 rs. For using Gas. It was an o.k. place. We cooked some Rice with Dal Tarka. It was so cold in the night that irrespective of those heavy quilts we had to wear the jackets to protect ourselves.
DAY – 16 ( 15/9/08 ) Chushul to Hanle
Getting up in the morning was difficult. We wanted something hot to drink, but there was no Tea stall so we left Chushul thinking that we shall stop somewhere ahead to have some Tea and Breakfast. The roads were becoming more and more difficult and the winds were cold. There was ice layer at all the water crossings. We encountered Wild Horses at lot of places. They shall run along with you, of course by maintaining a lot of distance. We finally reached Rizang La memorial. 1962 Maj. Shaitan Singh along with just another 11 team members gave his life by fighting bravely with the Chinese. I could feel my blood oozing out after reading the entire history over there, same was the situation with other two. We paid our homage, did some photography and left the place. We reached a place where we could see the Army Check post just 200 meters before Chinese land. Around 1300 hrs we reached a village Tsaga where we saw a school. The students were doing PT. We stopped over there and were greeted by the teacher Mr. Tsering Dorje, who was very happy to see us. He offered us Tea and it took no moment for us to say yes to it. He came back after 45 mts., so I asked him that from where did, he get Tea. We were surprised as well as felt bad also, the poor man went to his house which was almost a half KM away and seeing the steep the half KM was like 2 KM for me. He also got some biscuits for us and we were like shameless persons ate away every bit of it. We clicked some pics. along with the student and moved further. Ahead was another TCP
of ITBP at Dungti. We submitted the permits and after asking him about the route rode off. Finally we reached Loma from where one road leads to Tso Moriri and another to Hanle. Loma is the place from where River Indus is visible to the tourists. No Dhabas here also. Just 8 KMS away is a village Rhongo, we were sure that we will get something to eat there, but this place also you find nothing. Now we were riding to reach Hanle, were very Hungry and our mood also got a bit spoilt because of hunger. The roads of Hanle were under construction, so we got almost 20 KMS of fantastic Tarmac to ride. Thereafter again the roads were full of sand and Gravel. Finally we reached Hanle and we directly went to the office of the Observatory. Here we came to know that the officer in charge has gone to the point where there is the Telescope. They made us talk to him on phone and he asked us to come there. We reached there and saw the Telescope. We also wanted to see some results, but they had just 2 photographs which moreover look like a ball of fire. Here they told us that actually the team over here is just for the maintenance and actually the telescope is operated directly from Banglore. I was surprised. We asked them whether there is any possibility of getting some accommodation, to which he replied that earlier they used to allow but now it has come from the head office that no body is allowed to stay in their guest house until and unless you carry a permission from Leh, but he told us of a house who rent out a room to the visitors. We went there only to find that they have stopped giving the room to bikers, we tried to persuade the lady but she was adamant. We came back to the office of the observatory and were discussing as to what next – should we go back to, pitch our tents or what ? Here we asked the locals also but then no use. The came our hero Sonam Dorjee, who happened to be a driver of the Gypsy, he saw us and came to us and started speaking about Gaurav, and how Gaurav had stayed with him for a week. We requested him if he can get some arrangement done for us for which he agreed immediately and gave us a room. We were blessed. He also had a Kirana shop, we bought some biscuits and Kurkure. Night, though we were served with Shimla Mircha (Bell Pepper) vegetable made in gravy along with rice, you should have seen our diet, we hogged like a pig. Something is better then nothing.
DAY – 17 ( 16/9/08 ) Hanle to Tso Kar
Morning was beautiful over here, we refilled our Bikes. I was left with another lts. Of Petrol but Pritam had only 05 ltrs more, where as Fabious had 08 ltrs. with him. We decided to reach Pang and skip Tso Moriri. We were served with breakfast, Roti and egg burji. We once again reached Loma and from here we took the route towards Nyoma. Crossed another village Mahe and reached at Nyoma where we found an STD booth, we called and informed our families about our location and well being. Had Maggie and started off for the next destination Puga. Puga has some hot water springs which can be seen from distance and if want to go there you have to walk. We encountered another pass POLOKONGKA La, below which is a small lake Tso Kar. There is a village of Cangpa nomads. The entire village was vacant and only one family was there to take care of the village. There is a tent also known as GULU Retarant. We asked him about the distance of Pang – which turned out to be 50 kms. It was 1800 hrs. so we decided to stay here only. He had a eco hut with Rugs on the floor. The charges for the entire hut was 250.00. We met another 2 riders from Gurgaon, Sumit on TB & Sameer on P220. They were coming from Tso Moriri. We shared our experiences along with dinner.
DAY – 18 ( 17/9/08 ) Tso Kar to Keylong
Started early, as the destination decided was Darcha for today. We entered into More plains just after 10 Kms from here, but it was not as scenic as it happens to be while going to T La. Pritam once again fill the last 5 lts. Petrol he had. Fabious has now only 5 ltrs. I am with 10 ltrs. Now Pritam was in tension, as he will get Petrol at Thandi. We reached Pang and immediately rode off after having a coffee. Pritam was in search of Petrol. One tent owner was ready to give @ 100.00 per liter. We were just riding and riding, did not stop for anything till Sarchu. Pritam got 03 ltrs of petrol @ 75.00. Me and Fabious also tanked up from here. It was 1300 hrs. and we started our ride again. Other then riding there was nothing. When we reached Darcha it was 1800 hrs so we did not stop and finally made a night halt at Keylong. We had a proper Lunch after many days after having some drinks.
DAY – 19 ( 18/9/08 ) Keylong to Manali
We got up lazily, had our breakfast and pushed off for Manali. The weather was changing. There were dark clouds but it was not raining. We were worried that if it rained we might find some landslide at Rohtang which may be a problem for us. Stopped at Thandi where Pritam took some Petrol. It started drizzling at Sisu. I was capturing a Waterfall and had to pack my camera in hurry. It was now raining and we had reached Khoksar. We stopped to have a coffee. The rains turned out to be heavy now. We started climbing, the visibility was almost nil and the rain drops were hitting the face and moreover eyes. We were very slow. We got the shock of our life at Rohtang top. It was slush all over. Irrespective of our applying front and rear brakes the bikes were slipping. One Scorpio came to our rescue, what he did was he came in our front and made himself a barrier, though it was only once that I needed the mighty Scorpio to stop my bike. We somehow managed to come to the place where people hire Mules & Yaks. We were trembling with cold as well as some fear. While we were having coffee people were looking at us with great surprise and were amazed to know that we are coming from Leh on bikes. One person said “ ab to tu bilkul colonel ban giya hai “. The rains got worst and big drops were pouring to which people reacted that this is snow and they got very happy. We enjoyed and laughed at their expressions. Reached Mari and again made a stop over there. The entire road was in pathetic condition rather the worst road condition till now. Riding downhill in such condition, I feel is a bit risky. Any ways we reached Manali and made a stop in old Manali, where we got rooms for just 150.00 Rs. We were hungry and so tried some Apple Pie from a bakery just outside the hotel. Unpacked our luggage only to find that everything was wet. I was surprises as all the stuff was packed in polythene. Evening we celebrated and congratulated each other for successfully completing the ride, though still we were to reach Jaipur.
DAY – 20 ( 19/9/08 ) Manali
It rained all night, morning we were a bit confused whether we shall stay or move. Then we decided that first let us show our bikes to a mechanic and may be by then the weather may get some what clear. We came back around 1400 hrs., the rains were heavy, so finally we decided that we will stay back. We went to the market to get some Tripal. Rest entire day was spent at the hotel itself.
DAY – 21 ( 20/9/08 ) Manali to Bilaspur
It was still raining, but we finally decided to leave Manali, Packed our luggage, loaded the stuff on bikes and pushed off. Got some Petrol. There was landslide being cleared before Kullu, so we had to stop there for an hour. My bike had started giving some problem so we decided to stop at RE workshop at Mandi. The rains had stopped now. We came to know there that the roads ahead Bilaspur were closed because of some major landslide in Swarghat area. He also told us a different route which would lead us to Shimla, but we did not wanted to take a new route in these conditions. We finally made a stop at Bilaspur. Again Celebrated.
DAY – 22 ( 21/9/08 ) Bilaspur to ?????? ?
The ride started early at 0500 hrs. and the route was open which we could make in the night only as lot of traffic sound was heard the entire night. We reached Ropar by 0900 am stopped for breakfast and started the ride again. Crossed Chandigarh and reached Ambala. Everything was going fine. We again stopped ahead of Panipat for Lunch. Fabious had decided to stop at Delhi and me and Pritam decided to go till Jaipur. Just 10 Kms before my bike gave up – it stopped. Both Fabious and Pritam continued riding as they felt that I must have stopped for a fag. I tried hard to start my bike but it refused. Changed the spark plug and tried all other known possibilities, but failed to start. Pritam called me and asked me where I was and I told him the situation. They came back and all once again tried to start the bike. Finally Pritam went to Sonipat to fetch a mechanic, but it being Sunday everthing was closed. I was thinking to call RE people but then did not do so as it was a Sunday. Now the discussion had started that we shall hire a Truck and take omy bike to Delhi. Pritam got a truck from Sonepat who agreed to drop the bike at Delhi or Gurgaon for 1500.00 bucks. But somehow my mind changed and I asked the driver – how much will he charge for Jaipur ? he said Rs. 6,000.00 and I agreed to it. We loaded the bike and here I was sitting in the truck. We finally reached Jaipur at 0600 hrs. The worst part was that the Truck did not had front Lights which I realized later and entire night I had a major fear inside me. Thanked God after reaching Home.
Pictures can be viewed at
Picasa Web Albums - BHUWAN M. - TTM
PS : have just entered into the world of photography, so would love all you talented people to comment and teach me more.
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