Awara Model 2011 aka Life Begins with Retirement

Awara

Well-Known Member
May 25, 2019. During the previous evening's discussion with Karan of Deyzor we decided to see the Pin Valley and the village of Mudh मुद. Our route for today.

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Got out of warm, cosy bed and made myself some tea. Deyzor also keeps dried apple and roasted barley in the rooms to snack on, a most healthy way to start the day

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As I usually do during my drives, I went to clean my car windshield and poured water on it - even though there was bright sunshine, it just froze! The temperature read 4ºC at 8 AM. Decided to try again later after it warmed up

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Got ready. Muttley was meanwhile sunning himself under the watchful foxy eyes

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A filling breakfast in the sunny garden

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Thankfully, the sun warmed the windshield and I was able to clean it.

Exiting Kaza

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These bikers with KA number plates stopped us to confirm that they were on the road to Kaza

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Crossing the bridge before turning left towards the Pin river valley

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Some more scenes from the drive

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Sangnam en route to Mudh

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Road beyond Mudh was covered by the tail of a glacier and impossible to drive through. Parked our car just beyond Mudh and went for tea to Tara Homestay where we also placed our orders for lunch.

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Kids were delighted to see a little dog even smaller than them. However, Muttley ignored them and went exploring

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Where is the dog going?

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Waiting for her turn to fill water

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Meanwhile, Muttley who had refused food in Kaza happily ate dry bread from Tenzin Dolma, our hostess!


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Walked across to the glacier

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Village across the glacier

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Muttley enjoyed himself on the snow

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After spending some time there we returned for a Tibetan pizza & momo lunch

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On our hostess' advice, after lunch we walked down to the river and went across the hanging bridge to the other side

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Thrilled to see more ice, Muttley went exploring and almost fell into the thin ice around the little hole. He saved himself somehow and sprang back. By the time we returned, this bit had melted so it was indeed a narrow escape!

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The bridge swayed a lot in the wind

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Awara

Well-Known Member
On the other side of the bridge

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Back in Mudh, Muttley seeing his first black donkey and donkey seeing his first terrier

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There had been a lunch for a group of visiting lamas. Washing up with hot water afterwards

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Yellow-billed choughs also joined in the feast

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Colourful windows. Plants inside

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Our hostess' baby & mother

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Returned to Kaza

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Some sayings painted all over Hotel Deyzor

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Dinner. Plates wiped clean

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Post-dinner shots of Kaza night sky

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Awara

Well-Known Member
Sunday 25, 2019. Originally we had thought of going to Langza, Hikkim & Komic, but being a Sunday the Hikkim Post Office may not have been open. Travellers who had been the previous day also mentioned that Hikkim PO had run out of postage stamps. Instead, we decided to cover Key, Kibber, Gette and Tashigang

Our route for the day
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It was even colder today so I waited before cleaning the windscreen

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Hearty breakfast, as usual!

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Deyzor's owner, Skalzang, a very amiable soul who leaves the management of Deyzor in Karan's capable hands

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Some morning views from hotel

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Tibetan alphabet

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Hotel Deyzor takes care of several stray dogs apart from the resident Saint Bernard, Simba

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Our first view of Key Gompa

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This friendly Lama offered to hold Muttley while he went inside. He asked first whether the dog bites. We reassured him that he doesn't, whereupon he remarked, "What use is a dog that doesn't bite!"

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Cricket match in progress

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Muttley joined the football game and the kids enjoyed it!

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They all crowded around him when, tired, he was drinking some water

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Proceeding from Key to Kibber we saw several herds of ghoral or blue sheep - they are neither blue nor are they sheep.

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We saw Kibber from afar and drove to a point above the Key Gompa

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Fortunately, Muttley didn't bark at them

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and yaks grazing

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This was the point above Key Gompa that had to be reached by some off-
roading

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Looking down gives you vertigo. The wind was also very strong

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A panoramic shot

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tt

On way to Gette we saw more ghoral but didn't see any ibex

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The skies were clouding up and it was getting cold

Icicles on the way to Gette & Tashigang

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There was a grating noise - I had a flat at 14,500'!

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Tried inflating it but the tubeless tyre was cut so no alternative but to fit the stepney

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On the job

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My daughters saw a car in the distance and waved. The gentleman driving the car thought they were tourists trying out the usual selfies but his wife insisted he reverse and see if we needed help so Tshering, Principal of a school in Rangrik, and his wife, Padma, who works in Kaza Subdivisional Hospital, came to our help

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Job done, a grateful thanks!

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Without a spare tyre and with likelihood of rain we abandoned our plan to go to Tashigang which was only a couple of kilometres away and headed back. On the way, this lady took a lift from us

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Got the cut tyre patched up and a tube put in while entering Kaza. Freshened up and went to Kaza Market

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We picked up lots of picture postcards at Spiti Ecosphere's Sol Cafe. I had their "Bulletproof" coffee while my daughters went shopping

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Awara

Well-Known Member
A happy crowd inside Sol Cafe

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Taste of Spiti was not functional due to their refrigerator not working

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The Himalayan Cafe also didn't have the local speciality mutton dish on the menu that we wanted to try out

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so we filled fuel for the next day's journey at the World's Highest Fuel Outlet and returned to Deyzor for yet another delicious dinner

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Simba happy to pose with his regal air

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But the mischievous chap caught hold of my daughter's glove and wouldn't let go till Karan came and distracted him with another toy!

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Dessert

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And a thought before you go to bed. Hachi is one of the resident dogs

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A final thought

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Join us tomorrow for Langza, Hikkim, Komic
 

Hiregoudar

Happy being a nomad.
A happy crowd inside Sol Cafe

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Taste of Spiti was not functional due to their refrigerator not working

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The Himalayan Cafe also didn't have the local speciality mutton dish on the menu that we wanted to try out

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so we filled fuel for the next day's journey at the World's Highest Fuel Outlet and returned to Deyzor for yet another delicious dinner

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Simba happy to pose with his regal air

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But the mischievous chap caught hold of my daughter's glove and wouldn't let go till Karan came and distracted him with another toy!

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Dessert

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And a thought before you go to bed. Hachi is one of the resident dogs

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A final thought

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Join us tomorrow for Langza, Hikkim, Komic
Great photo of mountains on jeep wind screen sir.

Regards
Satish
 

Awara

Well-Known Member
27 May, Langza, Hikkim, Komic

Our route for today
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Bright but cold morning
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Room with a view
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Later, Muttley chilling in the sun with Hachi
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Hearty breakfast in Deyzor's Garden Cafe
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Dolma Milk Producers Coop Dairy Society, Key, comes daily with milk supply
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Filling up
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First stop, Kaza PO to buy stamps. A European also gave us his postcards to send from Hikkim as he had been there the previous day, Sunday, and there were no stamps there
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Postmaster Kesang, a very friendly and trusting soul. We helped him calculate the cost of the stamps
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The laborious task of sticking the stamps. By now, Simba had adopted one daughter
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Driving towards Langza
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Langza. We decided to see it on our return as we wanted to go to the furthest point Komic and then head back
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Hikkim PO was quite a steep walk down. We were to visit it on way back
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This Maruti Van had been driven here by an adventurous foreign couple all the way from Gujarat! Their philosophy is for all to see
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My vehicle says, "I too was there!"
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The Komic monastery
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Delightful kids
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Suddenly became self-conscious
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We settled on the Spiti Shahi Thali
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Lammergeier circling high above us
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Lunch at Spiti Organic Kitchen, "World Highest Restaurant" at 14,680'
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Chatted with two young tourists there who showed us these fossils they had obtained from Langza. Wish the State Govt sets up a museum to protect these treasures 150-200 million years old when the Gondwana plate crashed into the Eurasian plate and lifted up the Tethys Sea and also created the Himalayas which are still growing. The museum will also be an attraction for tourists and add to the local income
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Drove back to Hikkim after lunch and went down to the Post Office
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Face-off between Muttley and the local cat
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Postmaster Dorje stamping our picture postcards. He advised us to post them in Kaza to speed up delivery
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Donkey foal madly gambolling around its mother
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Road through rocky mountain
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Langza fields being readied for sowing next crop
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The Spiti from above
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Again encountered Blue sheep
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Gave lift to these two women
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Refreshing cup of tea at Deyzor, then again to market as it's last day for shopping for the girls. We also handed over some children's reading material to Spiti Ecosphere
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Shopping for local handicrafts
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In Sol Cafe
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Night sky after dinner
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We had planned originally to spend another day at Spiti and, if Kunzum opened earlier, drive to Jispa-Manali. However, the late snows meant that the pass would not open for quite some time. The alternative was to drive beyond Rangrik as far as we could go and then return, and then drive the next day from Kaza to Sarahan. However, after seeing the road holdups due to blasting and road widening, we realised it would be too long a drive. I didn't want to drive after dark. So we skipped the drive towards Rangrik, advanced our departure from Kaza and planned to see Lalung and Dhankar on way to our night halt at Pooh
 
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Awara

Well-Known Member
You can Pooh Pooh me but you can't avoid me, as we learnt

Day 11 of our trip, 28 May 2019. Kaza-Lalung-Dhankar-Pooh
As mentioned in my previous post, we cut short our stay in Kaza by a day and began our return journey. Karan gave us the contact of Tenzin of Om Hotel, Pooh, and we reserved rooms there.

Our route
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A last look at Deyzor. View from my window early morning
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Later sun streaming in
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My favourite wall
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Kaza still to awake
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The road back
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We turned left at Lingti towards Lalung. Short hold up due to road clearing
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Lalung Gompa gate was locked but a taxi driver with two youngsters contacted the old lady who keeps the key. She came and opened it. This is the new Gompa
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The old 10th Century Gompa on the left also has murals and we saw them. Photography not allowed
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Tenzin, very helpful taxi driver with old lady, also Tenzin, and my daughter
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The boys behind were being shown around by Tenzin
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From Lalung we drove to Dhankhar, literally "fort on cliff". Tenzin's taxi in front showing us the way. HP PWD has named it Dhankhar Mutt! We should respect local cultures
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Parked in new Gompa complex and had tea at their restaurant. Old Dhankhar Gompa perched on cliff is being restored
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Colourful door of new Gompa
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Started the steep 1000' climb to Dhankhar Lake
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Onward and higher, huffing and puffing
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Muttley making sure his pack is following
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Shrubs on way
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Telling us that we've finally reached
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Beautiful, holy Dhankar Lake at 13,600'!
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Muttley went into the freezing waters
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After spending some time at the lake we circumambulated it and headed back. Muttley refused to come so we just walked ahead. Fearing abandonment he came bounding to us
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He started shivering so he was wiped dry
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At one point when asked if he was tired, he just sat down
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He was picked up and put into a backpack and bravely carried down
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View on way down
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We had lunch at the Gompa restaurant and continued towards Pooh. Next stop at Schichling BRO Canteen. On way up we had seen the sign advertising Tea, Samosas and Jalebis and we were very much in the mood for all of them
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Sadly all the jalebis had finished by the time we reached and the jalebi cook had gone for a wedding. We made do with Samosas and hot tea, chatting with the very friendly manager
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Timely reminder for those availing of the "Wet" Canteen
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Squeezing past
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It was dark at 8 PM by the time we reached Om Hotel, Pooh. Owner, Tenzin, was very welcoming and made us very comfortable. Dinner and immediately to bed.

Our day's trek
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Awara

Well-Known Member
29 May 2019. Pooh-Sarahan

Our route
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Early morning from my hotel balcony
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Some hangings in Om Hotel, Pooh.

A good lesson for any traveller
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A brave adventurer
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Open verandah of Om Hotel where we had breakfast. Muttley sunning himself
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How true for all BBCMTians (other than most pensioners)!
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Sure enough, we had two long stops for road widening and blasting work
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Why fret? Just take a power nap
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We drove into the ecocarwash and, after exiting, cleaned the car
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Another hold up near a raging nala
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So down to the rocks. Gecko enjoying sunshine as well as the spray
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On our way again
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Thank you, too!
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Are buses built to squeeze through these bridges or the other way round? Who can give the best answer?
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A BIG SQUEEZE due to the private bus which could easily have gone more left
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Turned off NH towards HPTDC Srikhand, Sarahan
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HPTDC Srikhand guests are greeted by these blooms
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Our part of the cottage directly facing Srikhand Mahadev
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Evening went out for a walk
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Bhimakali Mandir. Superstructure entirely of wood with typical slate roofs
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Inside. You have to take off your shoes and leave all leather stuff, cameras, mobiles in lockers. No photography allowed beyond this point
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Temple complex also has a museum
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Love the slant of these roofs
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Intricate woodwork everywhere
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Doorknob
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Dinner in the Srikhand restaurant during which we told our very helpful server, Nirthu Joshi, to pack chicken cutlets for next morning for our journey. Noisy family next door had to be "gently" persuaded to lower the volume of their music to let us sleep

Views next morning
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