Bhedaghat - Amarkantak, January 2016


Going to Neverland
I have always desisted from making plans for a trip in plains. Never bothered to do a one at least in summer months. Yet, Amarkantak had always occupied some mind space since year 2011 when I first came to know about it. Thereafter, I made several plans to travel but the 1100 kms distance that too in hot, arid plains always discouraged me. However, this time it was winters when I was planning a trip and Amarkantak came to the fore. With this another dream of boating in Narmada river between the marble hills on full moon night seemed to be getting fulfilled. Since the day I saw Asoka movie at Batra theatre while my days at North Campus, Delhi University, I always wanted to do the same. I would have preferred if Kareena could have given me the company but never mind. Bhedaghat was the first stop-over.

So a plan was hatched. We had 23rd to 26th January i.e. 4 days at hand. My friends and regular travel mates Praveer and Rakesh pitched in. And we decided to do the trip on Praveer’s Dzire instead of my Thar. I was in agreement. Day 1 was about 875 kms in distance, hence we decided to start by 5.00 am.

I reached at Praveer’s place by 5.30 am. I did not encounter any fog. I sincerely hoped to find clear weather. There was slight change in the plan since we had to now drop Praveer’s wife and child to his in-laws place at Agra. We picked up Rakesh enroute. But now fog had appeared on Mathura road. And it was dense and it kept worsening as we moved ahead. The going got painfully slow with almost zero visibility. I was behind the wheels and I was driving extra carefully. It took us about 4 hours to reach Agra. We had a hearty breakfast at Praveer’s in-laws place. After a rest of one hour, we bid the adieu and soon driving hard to cover up some lost time.

Car for the trip

Destination for the day was Bhedaghat. We has reached Jhansi bye-pass by 4.00 pm. We still had to cover almost 400 kms to reach Bhedaghat. We started thinking of place where to break journey since reaching Bhedaghat was looking highly improbable. We were thinking of halting at Sagar, which was about 210 kms, for the night. However, we covered Jhansi to Lalitpur which was about 100 kms in distance in one hour. This gave us a boost. We further covered a distance of about 110 kms till Sagar in another hour. So, we crossed 200 kms in just 2 hours. Such was the road conditions – super smooth and devoid of any traffic. Now, we decided to keep on driving and halt only at Bhedaghat.

A little ahead of Sagar, we left the luxurious 4 lane roads. Double lane but again super smooth roads welcomed us. We covered the first 100 kms again in about an hour. Now we were relaxed and going easy on the accelerator. With 50-60 kms remaining, we stopped at a truckers dhaba and ordered chicken to celebrate the distance we covered in quick time. After a 45 minutes break, we reached Bhedaghat by 10.00 pm. We headed straight to MP tourism property but it was prohibitively costly. We got another hotel nearby at substantially lesser rent. Tomorrow being a full moon night, we were happy thinking about boating in the moon-lit river amidst marble mountains. Sleep came easy.

waiting for the dinner at the dhaba

time to gobble up the chicken-rice


Going to Neverland
We started the day by visiting the Chausath Yogini temple. The Chausath Yogini Temple of Bhedaghat is one of two famous Chausath Yogini Temple in Madhya Pradesh, Chausath Yogini Temple Khajuraho being other. The temple is made of coarse granite with Lord Shiva temple situated in the middle. Various idols have been placed numbering 64 on the outer wall perimeter of the temple which is round in shape.

Narmada River



view of Bhedaghat from the temple premises












Going to Neverland
Next in line was the famous Dhuadhar Water fall. But before that we had a hearty breakfast. Dhuadhar falls was amazing and sprinkles from the fall drenched us. Finally after out time at Dhuadhar falls, we went to the ghats for a boat ride. We booked ourselves a clean looking boat entirely. The Boatman was a funny guy and told us about shooting of the then under production movie Mohenjodaro’s Crocodile fight. He took us to the farthest point where he could take us. Also, he stopped the boat near marble rocks so that we can climb upon them and take some photographs for remembrance. But his next action made us sad when he informed us that night boating has been stopped since last few years and they do not offer and boat ride in moon-lit nights. That was a heart breaker. After completing our boat ride, we decided to leave the town and move ahead to Amarkantak which was about 250 kms in distance.

breakfast time

Dhuadhar falls



time for a boat ride

Kaalu, the funny boat man







Gaurav Dutt

हर हर गंगे!
bhai awesome. I know the roads are super awesome, as in FEB-2017 I went to sagar!

no safety jackets?


Going to Neverland
thanks Sajal

Beautiful and quite different!
But, you infuriated the hungry imp inside my gut #-o
well that served my purpose well :razz:

Absolutely fantastic, Alok bhai!

thanks Satish

bhai awesome. I know the roads are super awesome, as in FEB-2017 I went to sagar!

no safety jackets?
i stayed at Sagar while returning back

no provisions for safety jacket..i guess that the way there and mind you the water was very deed there

The place looks awesome!
Consistently maintaining close to 100 kmph...the roads must, evidently be, superb.
yes doc, they were beautiful toll roads with no traffic whatsoever..we never had to overtake any truck menace of any kind..we were able to drive constantly at speeds of 130-140 kmph for long stretches..hope this carries on in future as well