Dharali Devbhoomi, Heavenly abode of Devdar forest धराली देवभूमि, देवदार वृक्षों का स्वर्गीय निवास

AR Ardent Rambler · Oct 12, 2022

Prologue

It has been a while (six years) since I last visited the mountains. COVID-19 pandemic had become a part of our life for the last 3 years. Many (physically, emotionally and financially) have persished during the pandemic. We should be thankful to Almighty to be "Alive & Kicking". Now it was time "to Break Free and not for the very first time and for real".

First I was contemplating to make a solo trip to Spiti Lahaul region. However after news of massive tourist rush in Spiti I had second thoughts of going there. Then I changed my plans for our own UK (Uttarkhand) AKA देवभूमि. I got connected to Arun Panwar, owner of Shivay homestay in Dharali via गूगल. Within a matter of week we came up with a nine day formative plan and itinerary. I decided on doing it in the third week of September which is the best time for trekking in Harsil Valley. My friend Sunil D insisted on joining me for trip.

So we started preparing for our trip. This time I bought my trekking shoes a size bigger and allowed "Breathing In" two weeks prior to our trip. A week before the trip I was got rather busy. However I started ticking my shopping list on the day of departure. Last minute shopping included 50 liters pack back, toiletries, pair of slippers and socks. Final weight of my backpack

was 10 kilograms. My camera gear included my samsung mobile phone and olympus stylus 1.

We will start with Har Har Ganga Maiya and teasers in BCMTouring tradition.

Harsil valley from view point just before Zangla Bridge

Our alpine abode above the clouds in the midst of Devdar and pine forest

Gangotri Dham

View of snow peaks from our homestay

Sattal trek

Monsoon vibes in Harsil valley

Overhanging Wooden bridge at Gartang Gali

Pracheen Bhairav ghati Mandir

Bagori gaon, the cleanest village in India

काशी विश्वनाथ मंदिर Uttarkashi

My partner @ Harsil डाक घर made popular in Hindi motion picture “Ram Tere Ganga Mali”

adsatinder · Oct 12, 2022

Great Pics !
Great Places !

AR Ardent Rambler · Oct 13, 2022

Day 1, September 21, 2022: Planes, planes and automobiles:

We started our journey at the stroke of midnight courtesy an hour's delay for our first flight from BKK to दिल्ली. Immigration @ IGIA was slow due to inadequate staffing. IGIA looks less impressive with its worn out carpets as compared to my last visit several years back. After clearing the customs in T3 terminal we walked to T2 for our next flight to Dehradun (देहरादून). Our Indigo airlines flight landed in the capital of देवभूमि on time around 7:15 hours. Jolly grant airport was better than I expected.

We continued with young blooded driver, Vipin P’s brother in his Bolero jeep to our destination, Dharali. He took the Rishikesh Chamba Tehri dam bypass route. This route was very scenic with 50 shades of greens, stepped rice fields and colorful houses in the foreground, Tehri water reservoir in the midground and mighty himalayan mountain in the background. We took our short break for stretching our aching body parts. On proceeding onward Chaliyasaur was the next town which looked very beautiful. After passing Chaliyasaur our car cried trouble; first with clutch plates which took over an hour followed by right rear tyre puncture which took another 15 minutes. We managed to reach उत्तरकाशी around 14:15 hours.

IGIA

We were the last ones to board our flight. However we saved the embarrassment of last call announcement. We were impressed with Indigo updated aircrafts.

Aerial shot over Devbhoomi sky

Jolly Grant airport

Jolly Grant Airport @ Dehradun; close to Doon valley after 24 years!

The Bridge, BronBroen over Chamba reservoir with overcast sky

There are quite a few suspension bridges; this is one of them

We took a short break to stretch our aching bodies and captures a few shots

This Chamba reservoir bypass road is a very scenic route

Chamba reservoir with picturesque views

Window with a view point of green paddy fields

Love these green paddy fields with Garwal mountain backdrop

Monsoon green Is very eye pleasing and probably a very good source of Vitamin C, Chlorophyll

You can’t enough of this brilliant green paddy fields

Brilliant green stepped paddy fields with Garwal mountain backdrop

Monsoon green are special: very pleasing to the eye.

Picturesque village over the Garwal mountains

Love to have a small house facing the reservoir

Very scenic drive along Chamba reservoir

Love the reflection on crystal clear water of Chamba reservoir

Many such colorful villages are located in Garwal mountains

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AR Ardent Rambler · Oct 13, 2022

Day 1, September 21, 2022: Planes, Planes and Automobiles

We took our lunch at a small restaurant which was okay. We took time to pay homage @ काशी विश्वनाथ temple. There were very few devotees as it was bathing time for deities. शिवलिंग over here is tilted and inclined. ब्राहमण पंडित told me the importance of this temple. According to him this is medieval temple and the one in Varanasi is the primitive one.

I used wide angle lens on mobile to get a different perspective.

Purohitjee in one of the small temple in main temple campus

Devotees also believe that Lord Kashi Vishwanath will be shifted to this location when Varanasi (Kashi) will get submerged.

Kashi Vishwanath Temple Uttarkashi is one of the most sacred temples in Devbhoomi dedicated to Lord Shiva.

According to beliefs, a true devotee of Shiva attains ‘Moksha‘ (salvation) and also lives with Shiva in his abode at Mount Kailash after truthful service and worship at the Temple.

Family performing special Puja in temple premises

Purohit bathing the deities

Huge and primitive Trishul is 6 meters in height and 90 cms at the bottom. It is believed that this Trishul was thrown at the devils by Goddess Durga.

Amazing feature of the trishul is that it cannot be moved with greatest of force but it vibrates the moment you apply pressure with one of your fingers.

The significance of the temple is that Lord Shiva is present here in the form of a self-manifested lingam, immersed in deep meditation.

The temple is Nandini in in the outer room

It is believed that this temple was built by Parashurama. Later, Sudarshan's wife, Maharani Khanti, rebuilt it in 1857.

Selfie time in holy abode of Shiva

Few devotees in Kashi Vishwanath Mandir

Entrance of Kashi Vishwanath Mandir

AR Ardent Rambler · Oct 13, 2022

Day 1, September 21, 2022: Planes, Planes & Automobiles

After our best cup of chai @ Auli Cafe we headed for Dharali. Our day was beginning to get worse with light showers and fading light. There were lot of stone and rock debrie on road in the landslide zones. The positive was the dreamy moonsoon views of snow clad mountains. We were soon in the sea of clouds. The light was fading faster than we thought. We finally reached Dharali around 18:15 and it was getting dark. We met Arun jee our home stay owner on the highway at the designated place about one kilometer further down the main Dharali market. We had another one kilometer uphill walk to reach our homestay. We wore our raincoat and with our daypack started our uphill climb. The steep uphill path was wet, slippery and damp. We were gasping for breath after every few minutes and meters. I took us more than hour to reach our homestay. We were relieved and changed into dry clothes. The homestay owner served us with home-grown, बंद गोबी सब्जी, पीली डाल with delicious wooden baked rotis and सफेद तिल and पुदीना चटनी for dinner. The rain continued till the early hours of next morning. It was a warning sign for bad weather to follow in the next few days.

Monsoon vibes in Garwal hills

Monsoon vibes in Garwal hills; light was deteriorating fast.

Monsoon vibes in Garwal hills

Small colorful villages scattered along Bhagrathi river on Garwal mountains

Winding road along the banks of Bhagrathi

Gangotri highway and Bhagrathi river going hand in hand

Snaking Bhagrathi river in fading light

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AR Ardent Rambler · Oct 14, 2022

Day 2, September 22, 2022: Rains, Rains and Fire:
Today we woke up with rains and followed up with steaming bed tea. We were served आलू पराठा with home made ghee for breakfast. POA for today was to rest and take short walks around his place to acclimatise ourselves. We went for short

towards forest of Devdar (himalayan cider), kaen and pine trees. There were some patches of slippery surface in our path. Our lunch included serving of famous homegrown Rajma and आलू की सब्जी with रोटी baked on devdar woods. Sun God refused to oblige. The irritating light rains continue to play spoil sport. The rains did stop in the evening and gave us ample time to enjoy Bonfire before and after our dinner. Our dinner included उत्तरकाशी कड़ी and गोबी की सब्जी. Our desert included special खीर. Rains resumed late night until the next morning. The weather forecast was grim and rainy so we decided to spend next two days in nearly towns and villages before we disembark for गंगोत्री गौमुख Tapovan trek. In the hind sight Lesson for Day: “Don’t blindly believe in internet generated weather forecast”.

Woke up with fresh snow over the peaks and clouds hugging the peaks

Monsoon vibes over Harsil valley with overhanging clouds

Morning view of Harsil valley from our homestay with monsoon vibes

B & W Monsoon vibes

Clouds floating over Dharali’s Devdar forest

Dreamy monsoon vibes created by floating clouds over Dharali hamlet

Dreamy monsoon views of Dharali floating in the clouds

Love this capture reminiscent of monsoon vibes from Bollywood motion picture

It is a reminder how magical monsoon are in the mountains

Our homestay with cow shed in the front and main house at the back; shivas running in the foreground

The homestay is made entirely of Devdar trees. Our room is on right side of balcony.

It is an wooden alpine abode in the midst of Devdar and pine forest. The apple orchard are to the left of the balcony. The kitchen is on the lower floor at the back.

It was relaxing to enjoy the monsoon views of the mountain after a long drive yesterday

Mukhba gaon is floating in the midst of clouds on the opposite hill and Bhagrathi river down under.

Appreciating the brilliant green of monsoon amidst the clouds

Devdar and pine forests in the midst of clouds around our homestay. These were captures during our morning walk with Arun jee, our homestay owner.

Devdar and pine forests in the midst of clouds around our homestay. These were captures during our morning walk.

This view of Mukhba gaon and Bhagrathi river is from the back of homestay.

Beautiful view of Mukhba gaon, winter abode of Ganga Ma and Bhagrathi river down below

Beautiful view of Mukhba gaon, winter abode of Ganga Ma and Bhagrathi river down below? This view from the back of the homestay.

You can here the sound of roaring Bhagrathi river

Mesmerizing view of Mukhba gaon, winter abode of Ganga Ma and Bhagrathi river down below

What is he pondering about? This view point is just below our homestay? You can sit here for hours idly and enjoy the mesmerizing views of mountains.

Monsoon vibes in Dharali

Clean rooms with 280 degree views. Mukhba view from far end window

Front view from my pillow end; clean room with adequate quilts for a good night sleep

Near end with small cupboard for clothes and small tables for keeping personal belongings and charging your gadgets

Our homestay from different prospective

Cabbage gardening

Finger licking Bandgobi sabzi prepared by housekeeper

Monsoon vibes in Dharali

Breakfast with delicious allu ka parontha with white til chatni and aam ka achar

Balcony with a view

Dreamy captures during our morning walk in the nearby forest trail

Tall coniferous trees in our forest trail

My partner Sunil D and our homestay owner, Arun P having a chat

Dreamy captures during our forest walk in the morning

Picturesque monsoon vibes in the air

Wild flowers in the foreground and our homestay in the background from a view point from the forest trail

Yours Truly

Appreciating the beautiful panoramic mountain around them

Early start for our Bonfire

Abhi To Aag Shuru Hui Hai

AR Ardent Rambler · Oct 17, 2022

Day 3, September 23, 2022: Walk though villages

We woke up with irritating rain. Today we had local speciality for breakfast, mandwa roti with आलू की सब्जी. It was delicious but on the heavier side. Despite the light drizzle we left for Harsil. The downhill walk from homestay down to main Gangotri highway was tough on our knees and quadriceps. We walked another one kilometer along the highway to main Dharali town. From here Arun J drove us to Harsil.

First set of pictures

Peaks covered by clouds on my morning walk

Peaks covered by clouds on my morning walk

Morning walk along the forest trail around our homestay

Mukhba gaon under the spell of clouds

Clouds playing hide and seek with the mountains

Fresh snow on the mountain top in the midst of clouds

Peaks in the sea of clouds

Monsoon vibes with perfect contrast of brilliant green of coniferous trees and grey overcast sky

Ek B & W Toh Banta Hai

Dharali under the spell of clouds

“Cauthgt in the act” First they joined me for a walk. Then they mate marry!

Forest trail around our homestay. Main Aur Mere Tanhein!

I miss this morning walk in our urban living

Mukhba gaon under the sea of clouds

Panwar Apple orchard

According to Arun P it will be ready for harvesting in another two weeks. Royal black

Granny Smith apple!

Our breakfast with local Mandwa roti and yummy home grown Alu ki Sabzi

Captures on downhill walk to Gangotri highway

Ek Aur B & W Banta Hai

Walkin’ downhill from our homestay

Nepali workers are the ones who do all the hard work

Field of famous Dharali Rajma

This house had way downhill with picturesque landscape and backdrop

Capture of this beautiful temple on the opposite side of Dharali along the Bhagrathi river from Gangotri highway

Walkin’ towards Dharali market to pick up our ride to Harsil and Bagori

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AR Ardent Rambler · Oct 18, 2022

Day 3, September 23, 2022: Walk though villages
From here Arun J drove us to Harsil. On reaching Harsil the network was good and we were able to contact with our near and dear ones. First we walked to Bagori village. The village is clean and well organised on both sides of small walkway. The path was muddy due to rain; would be a good idea to lay an all weather stone track. The houses here are primitive: We noted that most of the people living here are elderly and weaving wollen gloves and caps. Arun Jee told us that young were doing government and civil jobs in the city.

Bagori gaon

Portraits of Bagori

Their colorful attire

Colorful houses

Arun P chatting with Bagori homestay owner

My partner Sunil D and our homestay owner Arun P

These primitive housesare

One of the few younger inhabitant of Bagori

Portrait of Bagori

Primitive houses are located along the path

Primitive houses in Bagori

Bank of Bhagrathi river in Harsil valley

Bridges

AR Ardent Rambler · Oct 19, 2022

Day 3, September 23, 2022: Walk though villages (continued)
Now it was time to explore Harsil. It is more touristy as compared to Bagori with colorful shops and restaurants and eye catching grafittis. It was lunch time and we opted for delicious vegetarian soup, momos and chowmein noodles at Harsila restaurant. Arun Jee took a break of 20 minutes for haircut; as for ourselves we walked to the Harsil Post Office made popular by बॉलीवुड , राम तेरी गंगा मैली हो गए। Hoever we drove to pay homage at Prachin Kalap Dharali temple.

Harsil, Uttarkhand’s Apple basket with colorful graffiti

Harsil more touristy but with less tourists today

WIlson cottage now converted into a guest house

One of the bridges over milky river

Colorful graffiti in Harsil

Yours truly @ iconic Harsil Dak ghar featured in motion picture “Ram Teri Ganga Meli “

Prachin Kalap Kedar temple in Dharali

Walking Bridge from Dharali to Mukhba

Arun walking on the bridge connectingDharali and Mukhba

View from the bridge towards Harsil

AR Ardent Rambler · Oct 20, 2022

Day 3, September 23, 2022: Walk though villages (continued)

Then we left for our final destination for the day मंदाकिनी waterfalls. From the highway it is a short walk of five hundred meters to this waterfalls. There are no sign boards so many tourists miss this place. It was high time to return to our homestay 9090 feet above ground. So we huffed and puffed over an hour to reach our abode. On reaching we took a wash and some refreshments. It was Bonfire time again. Tonight it seemed colder than previous one and Bonfire kept us warm. Our dinner consisted of डाल, आलू ke सब्जी and रोटी.

Point on the Gangotri highway to access Mandakini waterfall. There is a small food stall which serves very good chai.

Arun P in the the left and Sunil D on the right

Tonite it was colder. Bonfire to keep us warm

Dharali Devbhoomi, Heavenly abode of Devdar forest धराली देवभूमि, देवदार वृक्षों का स्वर्गीय निवास

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