Dharchula - Darchula, a walk across bridge

Yogesh Sarkar

Administrator
Just when you feel everything has finally become clear to you and you have had a vision and you now know exactly what it is you want in your life. Life comes up with another twist, which makes you question whether your dream can actually come true, and without that dream, your vision seems incomplete, in fact it seems worthless. Even though you want that vision to come true at any cost, yet not in this manner, not without the dream you had and not without the dream you wanted.

While you can make your vision come true if you work really hard in order to make this new twist just an extra bit of effort, needing you to slow down in certain areas of your life, while pushing hard in others. But it involves clipping of wings, at least for a short while. Provided everything goes the way you wish for it to go, but that rarely happens. While you can gladly give up your own wings for eternity if the need be, you cannot even dream of clipping someone else’s wings, even for a short while.

So you instead you try to divert your attention on a short term target, which you can hope to achieve if you act selfishly for a shortwhile. To fly few more times, before hanging up your wings for what might be a long duration with a handful of flights. Eventually leading to either the flights you really wanted to have or the longest one of your life, depending on how your life turns up.

In the end all you can do is not to give up on your dream, rather let it fly, even if it means living in the memory of your dream and vision for the rest of your life, always hoping and wondering, how it might have been...

Delhi to Dharchula and Darchula

Day I was supposed to take the longest bus ride of my life, began on a bad note. Headache since morning and what felt like acid in stomach, disprin and eno didn’t help, but I packed my bag nonetheless and headed for ISBT Anand Vihar.

Cab driver I got was a jolly fellow from UP and once he started telling me his stories of his childhood and cab driving days in UP, my headache somewhat vanished and he managed to put me in a cheerful mood.

Once at ISBT, I thanked Deepak for the ride and for telling me his stories and walked into Uttarakhand stand. Last bus on the left hand side was heading for Dharchula and I quickly boarded it, only to find seats already taken and once again I got the last seat before the bench. With my back still hurting from last 2 trips, I knew this was going to be a long journey. Gulping down half a liter of limca helped my stomach calm down a bit and we eventually started at around 4:30pm and I was soon made aware of the bouncy stiff suspension of the bus. All I could do at that point was drown myself in songs to take my mind off of back pain, headache and an empty stomach, which was now begging for food.

Thankfully bus driver decided to stop the bus en route for tea and I got a breadpakoda and tea from there (nothing much else was available) and my stomach stopped growling for a while. Soon the bus started, minus the conductor! Turns out bus driver had left the conductor behind at the tea stall. By the time bus driver realized this, we were already a few kilometers ahead. Thankfully bus for Munsiyari was still at the tea stall, when we had left. Driver stopped the bus and waited for bus and his conductor to arrive and a few minutes later, they did. All of us got a good hearty laugh out of it and it was time to be on our way.

Next stop was at Shivam Tourist Dhaba (yes that annoying place all UP and UTC standard buses stop at) and I ate a paratha there and was feeling much better. But it was now time to get lost in thoughts and as the bus started, I did just that.

Ramnagar to Rudrapur, easily the bumpiest section of the entire trip and one which I was now doing for 6th time, came and went. Leaving my back in pain and now seemingly 10% bumpier with water in the craters. Thankfully there was no rain, so progress was good.

By the time we reached Haldwani, we got the news that there has been a landslide between Haldwani and Almora and bus would have to take longer route via Ramgarh and that it will cost us Rs. 50 more. 4 buses (ours, Munisyari, Gangolihaat and another) started from Haldwani at the same time, choosing to drive in formation through alternate route, which seemed a little more technical than normal one. Stopping often to check road status from oncoming traffic and to chat with each other. At one of the hairpin bends, bus right ahead of us, almost overshot it and was about to fall into oblivion, before it stopped.

Drive was getting interesting, passengers irate due to increased time and fare and some even a little bit scared.

By sunrise we were back on track and after a quick change of drivers before Almora, we were heading towards Dharchula, not entire sure if the route was open.

At the same time, I was thinking about my life and what it might have been had I too decide to stick to a job and go through what now seems like a conventional life. It would have surely been different; maybe I would have been happier that way, still exploring the world during my offs and weekends. Maybe I would have even met the same set of people I know now or maybe not. Maybe this would be one of the regrets I take to my deathbed or maybe it is just a momentary disillusionment that will soon fade away.

Whatever it was, it did eventually gave way to other thoughts as I sat down for breakfast at Seraghat, followed by tea at Thal.

Photography in the meanwhile wasn't that frequent but I did get couple of good shots and I even got a seat in front at Thal.

kumaon.jpg


clouds.jpg


From Thal couple of families boarded, one with a 4 month old daughter, mother and father. While second family too had a similar aged daughter, mother of the child was being accompanied by her father and neither seemed that caring for the child. On the other hand, in case of first family, the way father was trying to comfort his little girl during the twisty and at times bouncy ride, was really heartwarming.

After crossing Didihat I found out from the conductor that the bus will first go to Dharchula and spend the night there, next day it will start from there for Pithoragarh, while the bus which had reached Dharchula yesterday, would come back from Pithoragarh today and it will start at 7am from Dharchula for Delhi.

Now there are times in our life when we begin a fast; sometime to pray for the wellbeing of someone, sometime to protest, sometime to please gods, sometime to punish ourselves, sometime to see what our limits are and sometime to meditate. Just after 12pm, I decided to take one as well. Deciding to skip water and food, because although I have lived a day or so without food, I have never done the same without water (warning, this can lead to severe dehydration and shouldn’t be attempted).

From Ocala the final push for Dharchula began and landscape started to change quite drastically and we started climbing down rapidly.

YS-7057.jpg


Beyond Askot, there was no Vodafone network and no data connectivity on BSNL. However despite that and bad roads, our journey was swift as the driver seemed to love driving fast downhill and made the entire journey seem like a rollercoaster ride.

Thanks to this, we managed to reach Dharchula at around 3:30pm, an hour ahead of schedule, even though we had taken a longer route!

I checked into Hotel Yash and got a double bed room on the second floor for Rs. 500.

After an hour or so in the room, relaxing, I decided to go out. First to an ATM to withdraw cash and then towards the bridge to Nepal and Darchula, to entire into a foreign land, without visa or passport :D. Sadly no photography was allowed of or on the bridge, so I had to just cross it on foot, go to the Nepali side and take photos of Dharchula. After a little bit of exploration, I came back to Indian side, having visited the first foreign country in my life :D.

Dharchula, India.

dharchula.jpg


Darchula, Nepal (as photographed from bus next day).

darchula.jpg


The only major difference between Dharchula and Darchula I could spot was, girls in Dharchula were prettier :p.

After walking for a little more than an hour, I came back to my room. There was still no data, so I decide to rest a little bit, contemplate, write and move in and out of sleep. Eventually at around 10:30pm, I decided to finally turn in for sleep with still no darn data!

Click here to read the next part ->
 
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Anjum

Excursion is my passion
good travelogue, as usual.... one suggestion, please try to come early to the bus stand in order to take front seats,,, last time, when you boarded bus to Gangolihat, you had no options but to take last seat.... :cry::eek:
 

amtesh

Member
Just when you feel everything has finally become clear to you and you have had a vision and you now know exactly what it is you want in your life. Life comes up with another twist, which makes you question whether your dream can actually come true, and without that dream, your vision seems incomplete, in fact it seems worthless. Even though you want that vision to come true at any cost, yet not in this manner, not without the dream you had and not without the dream you wanted.

While you can make your vision come true if you work really hard in order to make this new twist just an extra bit of effort, needing you to slow down in certain areas of your life, while pushing hard in others. But it involves clipping of wings, at least for a short while. Provided everything goes the way you wish for it to go, but that rarely happens. While you can gladly give up your own wings for eternity if the need be, you cannot even dream of clipping someone else’s wings, even for a short while.

So you instead you try to divert your attention on a short term target, which you can hope to achieve if you act selfishly for a shortwhile. To fly few more times, before hanging up your wings for what might be a long duration with a handful of flights. Eventually leading to either the flights you really wanted to have or the longest one of your life, depending on how your life turns up.

In the end all you can do is not to give up on your dream, rather let it fly, even if it means living in the memory of your dream and vision for the rest of your life, always hoping and wondering, how it might have been...

Delhi to Dharchula and Darchula

Day I was supposed to take the longest bus ride of my life, began on a bad note. Headache since morning and what felt like acid in stomach, disprin and eno didn’t help, but I packed my bag nonetheless and headed for ISBT Anand Vihar.

Cab driver I got was a jolly fellow from UP and once he started telling me his stories of his childhood and cab driving days in UP, my headache somewhat vanished and he managed to put me in a cheerful mood.

Once at ISBT, I thanked Deepak for the ride and for telling me his stories and walked into Uttarakhand stand. Last bus on the left hand side was heading for Dharchula and I quickly boarded it, only to find seats already taken and once again I got the last seat before the bench. With my back still hurting from last 2 trips, I knew this was going to be a long journey. Gulping down half a liter of limca helped my stomach calm down a bit and we eventually started at around 4:30pm and I was soon made aware of the bouncy stiff suspension of the bus. All I could do at that point was drown myself in songs to take my mind off of back pain, headache and an empty stomach, which was now begging for food.

Thankfully bus driver decided to stop the bus en route for tea and I got a breadpakoda and tea from there (nothing much else was available) and my stomach stopped growling for a while. Soon the bus started, minus the conductor! Turns out bus driver had left the conductor behind at the tea stall. By the time bus driver realized this, we were already a few kilometers ahead. Thankfully bus for Munsiyari was still at the tea stall, when we had left. Driver stopped the bus and waited for bus and his conductor to arrive and a few minutes later, they did. All of us got a good hearty laugh out of it and it was time to be on our way.

Next stop was at Shivam Tourist Dhaba (yes that annoying place all UP and UTC standard buses stop at) and I ate a paratha there and was feeling much better. But it was now time to get lost in thoughts and as the bus started, I did just that.

Ramnagar to Rudrapur, easily the bumpiest section of the entire trip and one which I was now doing for 6th time, came and went. Leaving my back in pain and now seemingly 10% bumpier with water in the craters. Thankfully there was no rain, so progress was good.

By the time we reached Haldwani, we got the news that there has been a landslide between Haldwani and Almora and bus would have to take longer route via Ramgarh and that it will cost us Rs. 50 more. 4 buses (ours, Munisyari, Gangolihaat and another) started from Haldwani at the same time, choosing to drive in formation through alternate route, which seemed a little more technical than normal one. Stopping often to check road status from oncoming traffic and to chat with each other. At one of the hairpin bends, bus right ahead of us, almost overshot it and was about to fall into oblivion, before it stopped.

Drive was getting interesting, passengers irate due to increased time and fare and some even a little bit scared.

By sunrise we were back on track and after a quick change of drivers before Almora, we were heading towards Dharchula, not entire sure if the route was open.

At the same time, I was thinking about my life and what it might have been had I too decide to stick to a job and go through what now seems like a conventional life. It would have surely been different; maybe I would have been happier that way, still exploring the world during my offs and weekends. Maybe I would have even met the same set of people I know now or maybe not. Maybe this would be one of the regrets I take to my deathbed or maybe it is just a momentary disillusionment that will soon fade away.

Whatever it was, it did eventually gave way to other thoughts as I sat down for breakfast at Seraghat, followed by tea at Thal.

Photography in the meanwhile wasn't that frequent but I did get couple of good shots and I even got a seat in front at Thal.

View attachment 630349

View attachment 630348

From Thal couple of families boarded, one with a 4 month old daughter, mother and father. While second family too had a similar aged daughter, mother of the child was being accompanied by her father and neither seemed that caring for the child. On the other hand, in case of first family, the way father was trying to comfort his little girl during the twisty and at times bouncy ride, was really heartwarming.

After crossing Didihat I found out from the conductor that the bus will first go to Dharchula and spend the night there, next day it will start from there for Pithoragarh, while the bus which had reached Dharchula yesterday, would come back from Pithoragarh today and it will start at 7am from Dharchula for Delhi.

Now there are times in our life when we begin a fast; sometime to pray for the wellbeing of someone, sometime to protest, sometime to please gods, sometime to punish ourselves, sometime to see what our limits are and sometime to meditate. Just after 12pm, I decided to take one as well. Deciding to skip water and food, because although I have lived a day or so without food, I have never done the same without water (warning, this can lead to severe dehydration and shouldn’t be attempted).

From Ocala the final push for Dharchula began and landscape started to change quite drastically and we started climbing down rapidly.

View attachment 630350

Beyond Askot, there was no Vodafone network and no data connectivity on BSNL. However despite that and bad roads, our journey was swift as the driver seemed to love driving fast downhill and made the entire journey seem like a rollercoaster ride.

Thanks to this, we managed to reach Dharchula at around 3:30pm, an hour ahead of schedule, even though we had taken a longer route!

I checked into Hotel Yash and got a double bed room on the second floor for Rs. 500.

After an hour or so in the room, relaxing, I decided to go out. First to an ATM to withdraw cash and then towards the bridge to Nepal and Darchula, to entire into a foreign land, without visa or passport :D. Sadly no photography was allowed of or on the bridge, so I had to just cross it on foot, go to the Nepali side and take photos of Dharchula. After a little bit of exploration, I came back to Indian side, having visited the first foreign country in my life :D.

Dharchula, India.

View attachment 630352

Darchula, Nepal (as photographed from bus next day).

View attachment 630353

The only major difference between Dharchula and Darchula I could spot was, girls in Dharchula were prettier :p.

After walking for a little more than an hour, I came back to my room. There was still no data, so I decide to rest a little bit, contemplate, write and move in and out of sleep. Eventually at around 10:30pm, I decided to finally turn in for sleep with still no darn data!
uttrakhand ke specialist ho gaye ho aap to
 

hraj

Active Member
Super...three trips back to back in this month! its a hat-rick =D>=D>. BTW how are you managing it? despite of having pain and discomfort during journey,you are on to it.
 

Yogesh Sarkar

Administrator
Dharchula to Delhi

I finally woke up at around 3am, feeling thirsty yet calm. Data must have started few minutes ago, as notifications were rolling in, albeit slowly. Thought of breaking the fast, but then thought of keeping it till Hindu next day and went back to sleep.

Finally I woke up around 5am, thirst was gone by now and head felt light yet calm. Replied to a few messages and finally left bed around 5:30 and drank some water and ate a few biscuits I had. Afterwards I took a bath and got ready and packed my luggage.

I had only stayed without water and food for around 17 hours, yet I felt calmer and more at peace after that. Funny thing was, although initially I felt quite thirsty, after a while amount of thirst I felt came down. I guess as long as you’re true to your cause and believe in it, everything just falls in place. In fact before falling to sleep, I had managed to write couple of blogposts which I will be publishing in couple of days.

I took a bath and got ready, packed my gear and walked out of the hotel towards the bus stand. Bus for Delhi was standing there, thankfully third window seat was empty and I took it. After about half an hour or so, bus started from Dharchula, almost fully packed and I was thankful for having gotten my window seat and could take photos.

black-river.jpg


YS-7159.jpg


clouds.jpg


YS-7057.jpg


First break came at Jauljibi for tea, which is at the confluence of Black and White River. Most of the passengers got off and for a moment I contemplated, knowing fully well that there was a good chance someone else would come back and sit where I was sitting. Because everyone wanted window seats in front and UTC buses didn’t assigned seats.

Jauljibi.jpg


In the meanwhile a visibly intoxicate man was creating a ruckus outside, saying, “मुझे मारो, मेरा कोई नहीं है, मैं लावारिस हूँ| मेरी कोई बीवी और औलाद नहीं है|” (Beat me, I am alone and lost. I don’t have any wife or kids).

I sort of felt bad for that chap, but that is what life is. Sometime we regret the choices we make only towards the end of our life, when we realize where exactly they have lead us to and at times we end up on the street, drunk, crying and bearing our soul out with no one to listen to our plight, just strangers looking in disgust or amusement.

As I got off the bus and started looking for something to eat, I found most shops just selling tea. Finally I came across a restaurant, where I got some egg chowmein made, in fact it was the best chowmein I had ever tasted. Cook/restaurant owner served it with pride and lovingly, even added momo chutney and pudnia+tomato+pepper chutney in it and served it along with a little bit of soup. The way that guy served food and the way he was talking, made the whole experience that much more worthwhile and I really enjoyed it.

best-place-for-chowmein.jpg


By the time I came back to the bus, it was about to start and sure enough, my seat was now occupied by an elderly couple, who were earlier sitting in the back. There were seats available in the front, just not window ones, so I took the window seat towards the end on right hand side. Knowing I won’t get much if any views from here, since my side would be mostly along the mountain, however I had look out of the window, for I had to see and wonder.

Soon the bus started and so did my bouncy ride, thankfully driver this time around was a lot more careful and hence I didn’t feel as much bumps as I would have felt, had yesterday’s driver was driving the bus.

Bus ran and so did my mind, I was calm today, much calmer than I had been in a long time. Maybe it was the fast, maybe it was just my mind running wild, hopping from one thought to another.

Road was of course bad at places with nature trying to reclaim what we had tried to claim from her.

claim-from-nature.jpg


nature-claims-it-back.jpg


However real fun began on the ascent for Askot, road was just wide enough for the bus to pass and even though driver was driving in the middle, bushes and trees from the right were rubbing the bus all across. It was a fantastic experience, though as a town Askot didn’t seem much and I couldn’t really spot the palace there either, though I wasn’t sure where it was in the first place.

From there on my mind just thought about a million things, majority of which I do not even remember. But thoughts came and I kept wondering, until we finally reach Ocala and eventually Didihat and then the beautiful drive to Thal began, which I consider to be second only to Tanmarg-Gulmarg stretch. Views were of course just fantastic, so I kept thinking and kept clicking.

didihat.jpg


After a brief stopover in Thal, it was time to move on with the next pit stop being Seraghat, the usual place for breakfast/lunch for most buses heading towards or coming back from Pithoragarh district. I had stopped at the same restaurant for the fourth time in less than a week and sure enough restaurant owner recognized me and we chatted for a brief duration for the first time.


seraghat.jpg


It was time to come back into the bus and begin the journey back to Almora, a route which had become familiar enough in past couple of weeks for me to start recognizing houses which lay around it!

kumaon-fields.jpg


En route I also received a phone call from @ankitgoel10 and we chatted for a brief while, it always feels good to be appreciated, especially when you’re feeling a little down and his call did that. While I was in a happy place afterwards, suddenly as we crossed Almora, my mood changed. Maybe it was the re-realization of something or maybe it was the magic of Kumaon fading off as we descended. Whatever it was, not even uncensored songs from Honey Singh could change it.

Our bus arrived in Delhi at around 5:30am, I was in a serious mood, not sure why. So I decided to take the cab back, not much really happened till I reached home and started writing travelogue half an hour later.

Eventually something did happen, on its own, once I was done writing the first part. Answer which came to me was something which was always there, from the beginning. I always knew what had to be done and I was always ready to go all out for it. And I also knew that those who loved and cared about me, will stand by my side, no matter what. Only thing was, I couldn’t ask for their support, it had to come on its own, from their own free will. If it didn’t come, I couldn’t really blame them, since each person has a different journey and a different path they must take. I know what mine is right now and I must tread on it, with or without anyone’s support.

Because when you dream and you’re serious about that dream, and it is not just another flight of fantasy, you know there is no option but to surge ahead, no matter how much effort it takes, how much pain you have to endure and how much blind faith you have to place in the hand of God.

After all, it is God who gave me that dream in that first place and also the vision I had was not some random awakening in the middle of nowhere, it was due to that dream leading me to that vision. And for that vision to truly come alive, I needed that dream. There can never be any replacement for it or a way around it. Because in case of dreams which matter, there are no options or backup plans. It is either those dreams or a life devoid of dreams like that…
 
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