26th Sept 2019
Day-4 of trek Phakding (2642 MSL) to Namche Bazaar (3457 MSL)
Total Trek today 14 KMS.
From today onwards we would trek distance which were lesser in distance than the first 3 days. Our sherpa Shreen asked us to be ready at 8 AM. I had Oats with honey and black coffee. I changed my BF to pure veg due to Navratri.
We now trekked along the left bank of Dhudh Kosi river and it was a lovely trek with water falls, trees and villages. When the sun came out briefly we could see peak Thamserku (6608 M) and Kusum Kanguru (6069 M). It was up hill climb and after 2 to 3 hours of trek we reached Monjo village. Here Shreen had to pay for the Sagarmatha National Park Entrance fee of NR 2000 (paid towards Khumbu Pasang Lhamu Rural Municipality) and National Park Entrance Permit of NR 1500. We took some photographs.
Sagarmatha National Pass
Views from Phakding to Monjo.
Some new hotels /resorts are being built ....
Tourist check point.
With a rainbow
What to say.....
Crossing Dhudh Kosi again on to its right bank.
Child with mobile...
Organic fruits and vegetables
Other river crossings.
Sagarmatha National Park Gate
Sherpa Shreen stopped at Jorsalle for lunch as that would the last Tea house until Namche Bazaar.
He told that it would be good climb after we cross Dhudh Kosi twice.
Lunch @ Jorsalle
After Lunch the climb and then Namche Bazaar. Some Photos to capture the beauty.
As we got near Namche Bazaar, I started getting breathlessness and suddenly I could hardly climb. Kamal stayed back with me as we were just less than a kilometer from the hotel at Namche Bazaar. We walked very slowly and could reach the hotel around 5 PM. Ram took our oxygen saturation levels and mine was at 81% and rest were above 87%. That night I started Diamox and gave it to Supriya and Kanak. Kamal was fit and did not need it.
I was a little concerned and thought if i had difficulty I would take a day for acclimatization and let others to proceed. I prayed and hoped i would be fine by morning.
We were very tired and had dinner by 7:30PM and retired by 8:30PM. It was a cold night.
Thumb Rule is:
Anything between 92% and 88%, is still considered safe and average for someone with moderate to severe COPD. Below 88% becomes dangerous, and when it dips to 84% or below, it's time to go to the hospital. Around 80% and lower is dangerous for your vital organs, so you should be treated right away.
27th Sept 2019
Day-5 of trek Namche Bazaar (3457 MSL) to Deboche (3734 MSL)
Total Trek today 15.8 KMS.
Had a good sleep last night as the climb and altitude had its effect. One thing I have forgotten to mention is that we were carrying our sleeping bags as we were told the Tea houses are normally full and the quality of sheets and quilts are not clean so carry your own bag. But due to delayed monsoon and flights not reaching Lukla the rush was less and we were able to get clean rooms and sheets. Our sleeping bags remained in the duffel bags. Only Supriya used her sleeping bag on all days.
We had breakfast and took out dose of Diamox (125 Mg). Ram checked my oxygen saturation level and it showed 87%. I was very happy with that. Rest and Diamox was helping. I decided that I will continue the trek with others and not take the customary acclimatization rest day at Namche Bazaar.
Kanak's knee was bad and he was having a lot of problems while climbing down. He was good while climbing upwards. He decided he should buy another trek pole (we were using just one).
I also decided that from now on while we climb I would take 40 odd steps and then take rest. This way I would space my climb. Supriya and me were last while climbing upwards and Kanak last while going down. Kamal was always leading.
Sherpa Shreen briefed us of the trek today, we would climb and then climb down to Phungi Thenga (3316 MSL) have lunch there and then climb to Tengboche (3865 MSL) and visit the monastery there and then climb down again to Deboche (3734 MSL) for night stay.
It was cold and cloudy as we left our hotel. I started slowly and I was feeling fine unlike yesterday evening. I kept a slow steady pace when we were in flat terrain and followed the 40 step rule when climb came.
Information of our position.
We saw this very beautiful child who wished us Namasthe at we headed out of Namche Bazaar. She received many a chocolates.
We walked along the left bank of river Dhudh Kosi. Normally when there are clear skies, one get's to see the best views of all major peaks. Shreen said this is the best part of entire EBC route.
But due to our bad luck we got only to see clouds.
what we saw!!!
We could see reduction of tall tress.......
Some peak I could see...
Rest break enroute
Strange hanging on trees
At Khumjung, Gokyo Trek separates from here. We could see many trekkers on this trail.
KIng of the sky...
Dhudh Kosi still following us....
Lunch at Phungi Thenga
River crossing again and then a check point and then a tough climb to Tengboche
Kanak resting his sore knee...
Reach Tengboche monastery
Beautiful and decorative gate.
At most barren.....on our way to Debouche.
We reached our Tea house (Paradise Lodge) at Debouche at 5 PM and we have evening tea with hot hot pakodas. I felt like taking a shower and paid NR 600 for a very hot water bacth as they had solar heating in their new wing. The rooms in the new wing had attached bath and heated beds! The tariff would be USD 50 per night.
After shower and clean up, we went to get some warmth in the dining hall where they have this wood burner/heater.
New Wing of Paradise Lodge
Rooms were clean and I had no further AMS feeling and Ram told me not to check unnecessarily as I was looking good.
We had dinner at 8 PM and retired only after 9: 30 PM.
We saved one day and we were now 3 days behind schedule.
28th Sept 2019
Day-6 of trek Debouche (3734 MSL) to Dingboche (4346 MSL)
Total Trek today 11.8 KMS.
Last night Kanak's trek poles were inadvertently taken by some fellow traveller and he was glad he got them back. He could not walk without them.
He used to massage his knee with Deep heat every night before sleeping and every morning before the start of trek..
After our morning duties and BF we were ready to start the trek by 8 AM. Sherpa Shreen told us that today's trek distance was one of the shortest and we would reach by 4 PM so we are starting late.
Leaving Hotel at Debouche.
We had to cross the river Imja Khola and go on to its left bank.
Land slide and Imja River
Imja River crossing
Looked like pomegranate.
We stopped for tea break at Om Kailash Hotel, Khumjumg
It was still overcast and we rarely got to see the sun.
Lunch after 4 hrs of trek at Shomare.
Last of the trees..
Trees completely disappeared and all we had was grass and shrubs.
Direction for Thukla (Periche)
We crossed the bridge to take the right side path to Dingboche. Left side would take us to Pheriche.
We reached Dingboche around 4:30 PM.
Checked into Hotel Bright Star. The rooms had an attached toilet to our delight.
It was cold and we met in dining hall at 6:30 PM and had Khukri rum before dinner.
We retired around 9:30 PM after enjoying the warmth from the fire place.
Shreen would manage hot water for our flasks every morning and evening. We were drinking only hot water (tato pani).
This place is the second day for acclimatization. On the rest day we are taken Imja Lake. We are supposedly get the best view of Ama Dablam Peak. Since everyone was fine we would continue our journey and not take the rest day. We did not go to Imja Lake.
29th Sept 2019
Day-7 of trek Dingboche (4346 MSL) to Lobuche (4933 MSL)
Lunch at Thukla (Dughla) 4620 MSL)
Total Trek today 11.7 KMS.
We were up again at 6 AM for 7:30 AM start since again today trek would be short one and we had lots of time to rest in between and try to reach Lobuche by 4 PM. Hot water was packed in the flasks. Just before starting Shreen came to inform that clouds have moved and we can see Ama Dablam . I just had the iPhone in hand and when we went out we could that last night it had snowed and it was white everywhere. We took some photos before clouds took over. Shreen told us that it is snowing in EBC area and we might get snow today while trekking. So he told us to layer up.
There is an ATM sign here but they don't work.
All were fine and Kanak was defying pain and what a fighter! He just kept going.
Photographs till our lunch break at Thukla (Dughla).
wet streets outside. It was raining.
Ama Dablam but it was difficult to see its shape due to the cloud cover.
We started the day with a climb over Dingbouche.
Valley towards Imja Lake.
Stupa and rest.
Valley over Pheriche and river Tsola.
It was a flat gradient today will lunch time.
Rains and then snow
Tsola River below
Snow fall started
We reached the head of the valley where the road splits. Now, we were near to lunch stop at Dughla but had to cross the glacier before reaching there. There were huge rocks and plenty of flowing water n ice.
Dughla in the back ground. It has 2 to 3 Tea houses only.
cloud cover and no views of peaks at all.
Info board at Dughla also known as Thukla.
Hillary comments on the wall " It Is Not the Mountain We Conquer, But Ourselves "