Day 2 :
Seoni (MP) to Varanasi (UP).
The alarm rang at sharp 5:15 and obviously on a chilled winter morning, there was none to serve us tea. So we moved forward. I had never traveled to this part of MP. There aren’t too many videos about this region on youtube either. I was expecting it to be dry, under developed, horrible roads with very less food joints. Most of my assumptions came true as the day past, but the beauty of the region was quite surprising. The jungles which were scaring us the night before were now pleasing to our eyes. We were travelling during covid months so there were hardly any public transportation plying on these roads. Trucks were also very limited. I must say the roads are none less than expressways. Only they are not access controlled. Somewhere near Lakhnadon, we stopped for a morning tea. We asked the dhaba guy if we can use the washroom, to which he replied “dahine / baye chale jao”. I could not really get it. Later he explained it meant khet mein J. I found it quite rude, thinking why wouldn’t a dhaba guy allow us to use the washroom. After all these facilities are intended to be used by travelers, right. Nevertheless, had our tea and left for wherever we could find a washroom. We were carrying a sack full of snacks and food….literally. So we decided to skip breakfast stop and have it on the go. For next 100kms we stopped at 4 to 5 dhaba and all of them had the same response, “dahine / baye chale jao”. I was literally furious. It was only after carefully observing the next few dhaba did I realize that these guys have not built any washroom. I mean it, none of them had any washroom and to top it up, water is really scarce in almost all the dhabas.
Anyways, we kept driving straight till Varanasi. By 2:30 we reached Varanasi, booked a hotel and finally crashed ourselves to a bed in last 2 days.
Mornings in MP.
Varanasi : Day 2 (second half)
Our plan for the rest of the day was to freshen up and take a tour of the ghats, evening arti, lassi, kachori, jalebi and BHU. I have been to Varanasi way back in the 90s. So to see a completely different Varanasi, most importantly neat and clean ghats was highly impressive. I must say Varanasi is one such city where the moment you enter the city, you can sense the vibe of the city. People love their ‘me time’. The entire city is full of tea stalls and it appears everyone loves tea. A long discussion of group of aged or nearing retirement folks over tea is something very common. Youngsters’ chit chatting over samosa / jalebi / kachori. Everyone talks in a very formal way and there is a melody in their tone. Typical of this region, I guess. There are shops which sell only Lassi. The cost of living (especially coming from Bangalore) was damn cheap.
So after a brisk walk on the ghats we deiced to hire a boat for the evening arti (Dashashwamedh ghat) from the river. Being covid days we were told that the arti does not happen in its full glory. But a priest or two do the daily rituals. The tourist rush as well was I guess less than usual. So after arti we decided to drop at Dashashwamedh ghat and walk towards Assi ghat (where our hotel was). If there is one trademark for Varanasi that everyone should try, that has to be Lassi. The most authentic it can get. No unnecessary flavors or colors. Just simple lassi in its true form.