polly
never ever give up
Thanks,I'll pay more attention,next time.
How to click good Portraits
- Thread starter AnupamR
- Start date
iamsomnath
Where is the remote?
I wish I started photography in this age when such a wealth of knowledge has been put in one place by experts like Henry. A lot of our early days were spent "reinventing the wheel " so to say
. Great workregards
Somnath
iamsomnath
Where is the remote?
Trying to answer your queries :-
1. VR in active mode : Many Nikon lenses with "Vibration Reduction" (VR) technology built in has 3 modes. One is "active mode" which has to be chosen when you are yourself shooting from an unstable/moving/swaying platform like say a boat. In other situations , which is 99% of the time, you should choose "Normal Mode".
2.Is there any link between Focal length & shutter speed : Yes there is a definite link which is applicable when you are HAND-HOLDING the camera. On stable tripods you can easily cope up with very slow shutter speed. But if you are holding the camera then there is a limit upto which you can "manage" to shoot without inducing shake. Usually one can handhold at shutter-speed at speeds higher than 1/focal length in full frame terms. So if you are using a full frame camera with 50 mm lens then you can handhold without shake at shutter speed higher than or equal to 1/50 sec. If you are using a crop-sensor camera then you have to multiply with crop factor. For nikon DX a 50 mm lens will allow you to hand-hold at 50 X 1.5 = 75 hence at shutter-speed of 1/75 or higher.Mind it that this is a GENERAL formula. There are people who have exceptionally stable hands and they can get away with much lower shutter speed. There are also people like me who due to 20 years of heavy smoking ( I have quit since last 2 years ) have very UNSTABLE hands and can 't hold without inducing shake unless the shutter-speed is much higher. This formula is for NON-STABILIZED lenses and has nothing to do with subject movement. It is all about CAMERA SHAKE. VR lenses generally allow one to hand-hold at 2 to to 4 stop lower shutter speed.
3.Bokeh ( Rendition of out of focus area ) depends on the following factors :-
# Aperture value : Bigger the aperture better the bokeh, in general due to thin depth of field.
# Focal length : Longer the length, better the background isolation. So generally a 300mm will render creamier bokeh than a 50 mm at same aperture value.
#Distance between subject and the camera : Closer you get to the subject DOF decreases, hence you get better bokeh. If you want good bokeh at SHORTER FOCAL LENGTH then you have to come closer.
#Distance between the subject and the background : More the distance , better the bokeh.
All of the above factors play role, hence you have to mix and match accordingly.
Hope it helps you,
regards
Somnath
polly
never ever give up
Thank you,sooo much.
Also can you go back a page and do a postmortem on a picture I have posted?
It will help me immensely, though Anupam ji have dissected it,would love to see how you use your blade!
nishchaya
Dreamer
Ankur, I am taking the liberty to critique your picture. Please feel free to ignore if it doesn't make sense to your style of photography:
1. First thing that I've noticed is the lack of sharpness in the eyes. And that again goes back to my stubborn inclination of getting the eyes in sharp focus. I feel that those twinkling eyes could've been more prettier with a little more precision on focus. Easier said than done, I can relate to the scene where these pretty subjects would be on the move most of the time and it becomes very tough to make them wait for a while.
2. The background is busy, there's lot of clutter around that could perhaps be cloned in PP. I don't know how to do it because of my poor processing skills, but someone in the group should be able to teach us for sure.
3. Oh the crop
Few things that you could do away with :
a) Bit tighter crop eliminating some space from the top
b) The extra hand intruding into the frame
c) Putting your subject towards the right end of the frame to give it a bit of depth on the left side of the image.
4. I am assuming that this was shot in the ambient light, perhaps with the use of a bounce flash, you could've eliminated the shadows on the face that is present due to those curled hair.
5. If there was no scope of bouncing the flash, then perhaps a fill flash of very low intensity, something that would come through a diffuser to create a soft light.
6. I get a feel that this was shot in a place where there's some light falling from top and you chose this place in order to shoot your subject in ambient light. The direction of light has rendered not very interesting bokeh. Perhaps, the light from sideways would've made it more interesting.
What else? Let the experts pour in with their comments, we'd get to learn more.
1. First thing that I've noticed is the lack of sharpness in the eyes. And that again goes back to my stubborn inclination of getting the eyes in sharp focus. I feel that those twinkling eyes could've been more prettier with a little more precision on focus. Easier said than done, I can relate to the scene where these pretty subjects would be on the move most of the time and it becomes very tough to make them wait for a while.
2. The background is busy, there's lot of clutter around that could perhaps be cloned in PP. I don't know how to do it because of my poor processing skills, but someone in the group should be able to teach us for sure.
3. Oh the crop
Few things that you could do away with :
a) Bit tighter crop eliminating some space from the top
b) The extra hand intruding into the frame
c) Putting your subject towards the right end of the frame to give it a bit of depth on the left side of the image.
4. I am assuming that this was shot in the ambient light, perhaps with the use of a bounce flash, you could've eliminated the shadows on the face that is present due to those curled hair.
5. If there was no scope of bouncing the flash, then perhaps a fill flash of very low intensity, something that would come through a diffuser to create a soft light.
6. I get a feel that this was shot in a place where there's some light falling from top and you chose this place in order to shoot your subject in ambient light. The direction of light has rendered not very interesting bokeh. Perhaps, the light from sideways would've made it more interesting.
What else? Let the experts pour in with their comments, we'd get to learn more.
Thank you, Henry! You made my day!
iamsomnath
Where is the remote?
Would like to say that modern 1.4 lenses are not optimised for auto focus wide open. Go at least two stops up to get sharp shots. If you have to shoot wide open do manual focusing preferably in live view. Just my two cents