How to click good Portraits

iamsomnath

Where is the remote?
Thanks everyone for taking out time and showing us the right track.

As of now I have learnt (Somewhat) how to get rid of busy background, taking care of light, Cropping and PP (Somewhat in LR) and I am still going thru all the links/guidance provided by you all.

Here is one recent image for your reference clicked while keeping all above points in mind.

As already mentioned earlier please feel free to critique harsh…

View attachment 588281

Camera- Nikon D7000
Lens- 70-300mm at 170mm (35mm equivalent: 255mm)
Exposure-1/250s
Aperture-f/4.5
White Balance-Auto
ISO-100
Cropped-No
Flash Fired-No
Metering-Matrix
Hello Anupam, see for yourself what a little application of mind does to our performance !!! At page 2 post no 15 you had posted another portrait and see how much you have already improved . I see the marked improvement in the following areas :-

1. You have nicely levelled yourself at the eye level of the child

2. Background has been carefully chosen and as a result no longer competing for attention

3. Much better overall feel and retention of skin tone

4. More conventional cropping

THINGS I THINK THAT COULD BE CONSIDERED DOING DIFFERENTLY :-

1. You have shot at f4.5 . At 170 mm ( 255 mm in FF term ) perhaps that is wide open. Nikon 70-300 is not famous for contrast & sharpness at wide open. You can try at 2 stops smaller aperture next time and I am confident it will come out better. At longish focal length the DOF will not change too dramatically.

2. You have matrix metered. Try another shot with centre weighted metering on the face and see how the BG comes out.

3. You have achieved shutter speed of 1/250 s at 255 mm focal length. Try to achieve at least 1/400 at such focal length if you hand hold. Bump up ISO comfortably unto 640 to achieve that. Was VR on ? I hope it was not in "active" mode.

4. Head is framed centrally , you could try to place it more towards right.

Thanks for allowing us to brainstorm a bit :p

Keep shooting & sharing

cheers
Somnath
 

polly

never ever give up
Hello Anupam, see for yourself what a little application of mind does to our performance !!! At page 2 post no 15 you had posted another portrait and see how much you have already improved . I see the marked improvement in the following areas :-

1. You have nicely levelled yourself at the eye level of the child

2. Background has been carefully chosen and as a result no longer competing for attention

3. Much better overall feel and retention of skin tone

4. More conventional cropping

THINGS I THINK THAT COULD BE CONSIDERED DOING DIFFERENTLY :-

1. You have shot at f4.5 . At 170 mm ( 255 mm in FF term ) perhaps that is wide open. Nikon 70-300 is not famous for contrast & sharpness at wide open. You can try at 2 stops smaller aperture next time and I am confident it will come out better. At longish focal length the DOF will not change too dramatically.

2. You have matrix metered. Try another shot with centre weighted metering on the face and see how the BG comes out.

3. You have achieved shutter speed of 1/250 s at 255 mm focal length. Try to achieve at least 1/400 at such focal length if you hand hold. Bump up ISO comfortably unto 640 to achieve that. Was VR on ? I hope it was not in "active" mode.

4. Head is framed centrally , you could try to place it more towards right.

Thanks for allowing us to brainstorm a bit :p

Keep shooting & sharing

cheers
Somnath
Some lesson for us somnathji
Can you pls explain ( love your elaborated replies) so won't say the word a bit,what you meant by vr in active mode and why it shouldnot be so.
Also is there any arithmetic link between focal length and shutter speed?
Suppose I want to blur the background in my portrait shot using 70_300,I tend to go for tele end,,how I can achieve a respectable bokeh at shorter focal lenght?
Your two cents please
 

Simar Rajput

True Wandrer
I have question regarding 50mm 1.8 g. If i click a single person than its just fine. The person in the frame is focused. But sometimes there is group some are focused some are not if i click wide open.
o i need to reduce apperture, still sometimes all are not focused.

Can you guys help me with this, like i need to change metering or something else.

Here is the example, the guy is focused but his wife is not, how to tackle this situation when using 50mm 1.8 g.

Details:
F-stop - f/1.8
Exposure - 1/13 sec
ISO - 200
 
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Ankur003

UltraWideLife.com
Simar, can you post the exact f number and shutter speed?
Looks like you had a longer exposure, hence the blur.
 

Ankur003

UltraWideLife.com
Details:
F-stop - f/1.8
Exposure - 1/13 sec
ISO - 200
Simar,
Exposure is your culprit. 1/13 is too slow for such a shot. I would suggest anything >1/250 sec to start with.
F stop - narrower than f/5.6 to begin with
ISO - pump it to 1600 to begin with, or whatever is the base ISO of your camera model

- - - Updated - - -

You are bound to get blurred shot at 1/13 in bright light (handheld )
Usually 1/60 - 1/80 should be used for stable subject in low light
 
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Simar Rajput

True Wandrer
Oks. Thanks for the info.

Narrower then f/5.6 bookeh will be effected isnt it, will not be so much creamier.

I think i should have pumped ISO so as to get desired exposure.


In this type of light, in a party hall say as shown in image, what should be the exposure so as to get perfect sharp images?
 
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iamsomnath

Where is the remote?
Some lesson for us somnathji
Can you pls explain ( love your elaborated replies) so won't say the word a bit,what you meant by vr in active mode and why it shouldnot be so.
Also is there any arithmetic link between focal length and shutter speed?
Suppose I want to blur the background in my portrait shot using 70_300,I tend to go for tele end,,how I can achieve a respectable bokeh at shorter focal lenght?
Your two cents please
please wait till tomorrow :)
 
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