How to shoot in Bulb mode

[nishchaya]

Hot pixels will depend on ambient temperature. Some cameras have "Long exposure NR". This option takes a "dark frame" after finishing your exposure.
So camera will take a 300 second exposure after your 300 second bulb exposure and subtract the 300 second dark exposure. This will give cleaner image, but can double your actual exposure time

2. Point your focus point to the object, half press shutter when in AF mode. After camera locks focus, simple release shutter button without taking picture, and then flick switch to MF

Thanks Tanveer,
I understand that it does takes the dark frame and then subtracts the noise'd/hot pixel area. Is there any other way to do it, rather than using the Long Exposure NR. I mean to get it right without adding on the extra exposure time and relying on the camera NR?

I guess, I sort of confused you with my second question. What I wanted to ask was the immediate glare, an object's reflection that is visible through the glass when seeing through the viewfinder. It is analogous to viewing a glowing bulb through your spectacles (especially with cylinders and a power of positive diopter) when actually two objects are visible sometimes, rather than one. The other one is just the reflection/refraction of the actual subject.
Will the CPL help? But it would be useless during night.

 

[Praful]

It is humanly impossible to keep holding the shutter for so long manually.

So that brings us to the actual way this is done

Agree to this 99.999%.. there are a few situations where you might be able to make it work.

Eg:



360 Seconds Exposure



278 Seconds Exposure

1. Cable release
2. Remote shutter


1. FOCUS - You will normally take bulb exposures to expose stars or night landscapes, when 30 seconds is too less. this means it will be dark, which in turn means, if your camera is set to AF, it may simple keep hunting for focus.
So best practice. Find a bright object, such as moon, if you are exposing objects far away.
For nearby objects, walk to object, turn on a torch keep it there.

I had to learn this the hard way, was my first time with the camera in Ladakh and I had no idea how to get the focus right.

I dint focus on the moon, instead I zoomed to max i.e. 55 mm since I was using the kit lens and focused on the brightest star in the sky. Once focus was right, I'd go back full wide at 18mm. And click.

Would AF work here?? And what am I doing wrong. So far with this method the pics are coming out decently okay but my tripod is a bit flimsy so shots shake about in the wind!!!

 

[tsk1979]

Won't lower density pixel hamper the ultmate pic?
Have always wondered why 5dMkII produces gem of images despite being LPD?
Baffled as ever will be..

No, its not a lower density pixel. Its the number of pixels per square mm. Pixel or photosite size is not the thing here

very nice tutorial tanveer...

Thanks

Thanks Tanveer,
I understand that it does takes the dark frame and then subtracts the noise'd/hot pixel area. Is there any other way to do it, rather than using the Long Exposure NR. I mean to get it right without adding on the extra exposure time and relying on the camera NR?

I guess, I sort of confused you with my second question. What I wanted to ask was the immediate glare, an object's reflection that is visible through the glass when seeing through the viewfinder. It is analogous to viewing a glowing bulb through your spectacles (especially with cylinders and a power of positive diopter) when actually two objects are visible sometimes, rather than one. The other one is just the reflection/refraction of the actual subject.
Will the CPL help? But it would be useless during night.

That should not happen. When I shoot, I do not see second reflection, and it never interferes with the AF
As for removing hot pixels, many programs do a good job. You can use Nikons Capture NX also, or free programs like GIMP/DCRAW/UFRAW/RAWTHERAPEE

Agree to this 99.999%.. there are a few situations where you might be able to make it work.

Eg:



360 Seconds Exposure



278 Seconds Exposure



I had to learn this the hard way, was my first time with the camera in Ladakh and I had no idea how to get the focus right.

I dint focus on the moon, instead I zoomed to max i.e. 55 mm since I was using the kit lens and focused on the brightest star in the sky. Once focus was right, I'd go back full wide at 18mm. And click.

Would AF work here?? And what am I doing wrong. So far with this method the pics are coming out decently okay but my tripod is a bit flimsy so shots shake about in the wind!!!

Well praful, you are superhuman I guess

When you move the zoom right, your focus also can move. Depends on lens to lens. Why did you move to 55mm to focus on moon? You can focus on moon even with a 10mm lens. The moon will appear very small, but you will see allright.

As for flimsy tripod, get a heavier unit, or dig it in. No way getting around that.

 

[Ashish2k2020]

Awesome tutorial Tanveer.... Very informative.

 

[danrockd]

very informative.. thanks for sharing the knowledge.. also pls add some shots to illustrate few points.. that wud make this tutorial even better !

 

[nishchaya]

Thanks Tanveer,
I guess then it could be a problem with my lens. For example, when I use my 55-200 and zoom it to 200 mm or even less, I see two moons, the other one being a bit hazy or a reflected/refracted/glared image alongwith the original subject. This happens only in low light conditions with a brightly lit subject surrounded with darkness (like moon). It doesn't happen with my kit lens or even with the prime lens.

 

[n2twork_guru]

@Tanveer : The post came up at the right time. Leaving for Ladakh in a week. Can you post some example shots with exif info, would be even more helpful.

 

[anupmathur]

Who'd have thunk it! that there was so much to know about shooting stars!

Great job, Tanveer, though I would be keen to know how much of all this applies to shooting with film.

 

[abhinav1107]

Awesome piece of information man. Thanks for sharing it.

 

[tsk1979]

Who'd have thunk it! that there was so much to know about shooting stars!

Great job, Tanveer, though I would be keen to know how much of all this applies to shooting with film.

Everything. Its just that with film you can expose for longer.