In Search of Unknown, Chaukori

Yogesh Sarkar

Administrator
A year ago, I began my search for the Unknown with a trip to Gangolihat and even though I decided to abandon my search soon after that, when I went to Nachani, I continued to do trips which were quite philosophical for me. However none of them compared to the trips I did in Search of the Unknown.

A year on, I have lost my belief in quite a few things, including in my God. For a person who wishes to listen to his heart and his God, this seemed like a death of all things good and sacred. I was detached to everything, and I didn’t want that.

But you can’t believe, just for the sake of believing.

So the Search for the Unknown had to be resumed and this time, there was no letting go of it, midway.

Weather was gearing up to be quite nasty in Uttarakhand and hills in general, with heavy rains forecasted. I guess this is just the thing I needed. And even though this trip was going to be a trip to reconnect with my God and my heart, to think and contemplate. I got pretty much all of my camera gear ready. After all, photography is an essential part of my being and for me, it is in many ways a form of meditation and I wanted to do that, if I got the chance and mood was right.

RD’s suggestion was to document the trip well, claiming I was being too selfish to look at the travelogue from my own perspective and I wasn’t helping others, by not documenting it in a manner I ought to!

A point well made, and even though these travelogues will forever be more of an internal dialogue I share with others, I decided to document it, the best I can.

Day 1, 16th July 2016

I decided to skip on Volvo this time, in order to save a couple of hundred rupees. After all, Rs. 516 I had to shell out for UTC AC Bus to Haldwani (including online booking charge) was still quite steep for such a small journey, Volvo at Rs. 739 was a lot more expensive.

It is quite another thing that I spent Rs. 285.35 on a 32km Uber ride from my home to ISBT Anand Vihar.

And once again, I arrived quite early at the bus stand. Hour and a half before the scheduled departure of my bus! Thankfully weather is nice today and I get to enjoy the cool breeze and beautiful clouds in Delhi itself.

isbt-anand-vihar.jpg

Headphones on, I wait. Occasionally playing with my mobile phone, but mostly just looking around. I love doing this. At times I chat with friends and my sister, but I mostly just think, trying to reconnect and failing utterly.

Its 7:30pm and the bus is supposed to leave at 8:00pm, I still haven’t seen the bus yet. Though I have a fear, it is the one docked in the first bay, ever since my arrival. So instead of going towards it, I walk towards the bay where another bus is parked, but this one is a Volvo. I ask the booking counter next to it, and they refer me to the first bay, and sure enough, this is my bus to Haldwani.

delhi-haldwani-utc-ac-bus.jpg


I haven’t printed my online ticket, and I am hoping PDF file on mobile would be enough. Conductor doesn’t even ask for that, instead he asks my name, verifies it against the list he has and that’s it! Furthermore, he refuses to put the duffle bag in the storage of bus, guess he is making “better use” of that. And I have to store my duffle bag and my full size camera backpack under my seat and under my leg for the entire journey, since the overhead bin isn’t even large enough to accommodate a laptop bag!

On top of it, the guy in the front already has reclined his seat!

This is one reason I hate Volvos and AC buses, with the seats reclined, there is hardly any knee room left. Thankfully it is still somewhat better than Volvo. Next time I am going to book the first seat, more knee room there and no such drama!

I munch on the chips I have just bought, as the clock strikes 8:10 and driver finally decides to pull out.

From the word go, suspension is bouncier than a Volvo and I am glad I am not in the last row.

Like every other UTC driver, this one too has a different route to get out of Ghaziabad and he takes a different one to reach the highway.

AC is on the full blast and ride is comfortable for now, it is raining in Rampur as per a friend and hopefully in Uttarakhand as well. I get immersed in music and at times chatting on WhatsApp. I still can't get myself to think, but then again, this isn’t something you can force yourself to do and I have decided, I am not even going to attempt that. When it gets time to get immersed in thoughts, it will happen on its own.

At Gajraula we pull into Shiva Tourist Dhaba, at first glance it looks like a slightly better version of Shivam Tourist Dhaba, which I hate. It is also more expensive version of it, with special thali priced at Rs. 200.

I sit on the table, and wait for a waiter to come. He comes with a bottle of mineral water, places it without asking and takes my order. I decide to order special thali; I am going to open that bottle of unasked for mineral water as well.

My food arrives and apart from the gawky plate, it looks great. Naan, misi roti, pulao, daal, paneer, raita, papad and salad. Kheer will arrive later.

shiva-tourist-dhaba-special-thali.jpg


Food is delicious and as I tell RD about it, I am advised to order kulhar wali chai, since it is supposed to be great here and I do just that.

kulhar-wali-chai.jpg


After kheer, it doesn’t tastes as good, but is quite decent.

I am stuffed like anything and apart from paneer, I finish off everything. For some reason, I just don’t trust paneer at hotels, apart from the really good ones and on highways, I just avoid it completely.

I walk back to the bus, trying to make my sis and RD jealous by WhatsApping them what I just ate :D!

What follows is a non-stop WhatsApp session, which lasts till I cross Rampur-Rudrapur stretch with relative ease. Thankfully the suspension wasn’t too bad, at least in the front, but I doubt passengers in rear seats enjoyed that stretch.

Day 2, 17th July

It’s 2am, by the time we reach Rudrapur. There are plenty of passengers waiting to get out, before Rudrapur bus station. Only problem, door to passenger compartment is locked shut. Conductor has been sleeping in passenger cabin, enjoying AC; now he too is stuck on this side with only driver on the other side, who does his best to help conductor and passengers on this side, unlock the door.

bus-lock-issue-rudrapur.jpg


After 10 minutes of struggle, door finally opens and passengers can get off. Conductor holds the door open, till we finally reach Rudrapur bus station and bus is parked and driver proceeds to remove the lock completely.

It is raining outside; it has been raining for a while now. I am eager to reach Haldwani, so that I can get a connecting bus to go deeper in to Kumaon, likely Pithoragarh and find options after arriving there. The later I reach there, fewer options I will have and yet, driver is in no mood to move from here and spends half an hour at the bus station.

Even the Rudrapur to Haldwani stretch is a little bumpy this time around. I guess rain has taken a toll on things and yet, drizzle continues and accompanies us till Haldwani, and then somewhat slows down.

It is around 3:40am, when I get off from Delhi – Haldwani bus. Now it is time to hunt for a bus to go deeper in to Uttarakhand, not sure where, but somewhere, maybe to Dharchula.

But the only buses I see around me are heading for Almora and of course the same ole Dharamdhar bus, I took on my last trip to Kausani. I don’t want to board that one again.

Biggest issue of traveling alone with two bags is, going to loo. It is hard work, balancing two bags at the same time, and yet, must be done. And after the careful balancing act :p, I head to information counter to ask for bus to Pithoragarh.

The gent at information cum booking counter instead asks me, whether I have seen any Pithoragarh buses, I reply negatively, and he tells me last one was at 2:30!

Just then a driver walks alongside me and tells the gent at information counter to register his bus, which is heading to Nachani!

Nachani?

Did you just say Nachani?

Yes.

Where is the bus?

Over there.

He points me towards the location of the bus and I head over to it. This is so darn perfect! My search had ended at Nachani last year and it seems destined to begin there as well!

utc-bus-to-nachani.jpg


I board the bus and take a seat. Then get off to get something to munch on en route, and decide to splurge a little and get couple of cans of Red Bull, one for now, and another later.

Bus starts and head towards Kathgodam UTC shed.

Bus is refueled; new driver and conductor take charge.

I ask the conductor to make my ticket till Nachani; he is hesitant to do that. Tells me, we won’t likely be able to make it to Nachani, but we will likely make it to Thal and from there I can take a shared taxi. But if that happens, he will issue a part refund.

I am ok with that idea, in fact now I am thinking of Thal, there are couple of temples there I want to photograph and as it is, Nachani doesn’t have much to offer, apart from a raging river and a Shani Temple, that looked interesting to me last time around.

We start our journey towards hills, cold wind coming in from open window is a lot more soothing and intoxicating than the AC, adventure begins…

Scroll down for second part.
 
Last edited:
A year ago, I began my search for the Unknown with a trip to Gangolihat and even though I decided to abandon my search soon after that, when I went to Nachani, I continued to do trips which were quite philosophical for me. However none of them compared to the trips I did in Search of the Unknown.

A year on, I have lost my belief in quite a few things, including in my God. For a person who wishes to listen to his heart and his God, this seemed like a death of all things good and sacred. I was detached to everything, and I didn’t want that.

But you can’t believe, just for the sake of believing.

So the Search for the Unknown had to be resumed and this time, there was no letting go of it, midway.

Weather was gearing up to be quite nasty in Uttarakhand and hills in general, with heavy rains forecasted. I guess this is just the thing I needed. And even though this trip was going to be a trip to reconnect with my God and my heart, to think and contemplate. I got pretty much all of my camera gear ready. After all, photography is an essential part of my being and for me, it is in many ways a form of meditation and I wanted to do that, if I got the chance and mood was right.

RD’s suggestion was to document the trip well, claiming I was being too selfish to look at the travelogue from my own perspective and I wasn’t helping others, by not documenting it in a manner I ought to!

A point well made, and even though these travelogues will forever be more of an internal dialogue I share with others, I decided to document it, the best I can.

Day 1, 16th July 2016

I decided to skip on Volvo this time, in order to save a couple of hundred rupees. After all, Rs. 516 I had to shell out for UTC AC Bus to Haldwani (including online booking charge) was still quite steep for such a small journey, Volvo at Rs. 739 was a lot more expensive.

It is quite another thing that I spent Rs. 285.35 on a 32km Uber ride from my home to ISBT Anand Vihar.

And once again, I arrived quite early at the bus stand. Hour and a half before the scheduled departure of my bus! Thankfully weather is nice today and I get to enjoy the cool breeze and beautiful clouds in Delhi itself.

View attachment 684792
Headphones on, I wait. Occasionally playing with my mobile phone, but mostly just looking around. I love doing this. At times I chat with friends and my sister, but I mostly just think, trying to reconnect and failing utterly.

Its 7:30pm and the bus is supposed to leave at 8:00pm, I still haven’t seen the bus yet. Though I have a fear, it is the one docked in the first bay, ever since my arrival. So instead of going towards it, I walk towards the bay where another bus is parked, but this one is a Volvo. I ask the booking counter next to it, and they refer me to the first bay, and sure enough, this is my bus to Haldwani.

View attachment 684791

I haven’t printed my online ticket, and I am hoping PDF file on mobile would be enough. Conductor doesn’t even ask for that, instead he asks my name, verifies it against the list he has and that’s it! Furthermore, he refuses to put the duffle bag in the storage of bus, guess he is making “better use” of that. And I have to store my duffle bag and my full size camera backpack under my seat and under my leg for the entire journey, since the overhead bin isn’t even large enough to accommodate a laptop bag!

On top of it, the guy in the front already has reclined his seat!

This is one reason I hate Volvos and AC buses, with the seats reclined, there is hardly any knee room left. Thankfully it is still somewhat better than Volvo. Next time I am going to book the first seat, more knee room there and no such drama!

I munch on the chips I have just bought, as the clock strikes 8:10 and driver finally decides to pull out.

From the word go, suspension is bouncier than a Volvo and I am glad I am not in the last row.

Like every other UTC driver, this one too has a different route to get out of Ghaziabad and he takes a different one to reach the highway.

AC is on the full blast and ride is comfortable for now, it is raining in Rampur as per a friend and hopefully in Uttarakhand as well. I get immersed in music and at times chatting on WhatsApp. I still can't get myself to think, but then again, this isn’t something you can force yourself to do and I have decided, I am not even going to attempt that. When it gets time to get immersed in thoughts, it will happen on its own.

At Gajraula we pull into Shiva Tourist Dhaba, at first glance it looks like a slightly better version of Shivam Tourist Dhaba, which I hate. It is also more expensive version of it, with special thali priced at Rs. 200.

I sit on the table, and wait for a waiter to come. He comes with a bottle of mineral water, places it without asking and takes my order. I decide to order special thali; I am going to open that bottle of unasked for mineral water as well.

My food arrives and apart from the gawky plate, it looks great. Naan, misi roti, pulao, daal, paneer, raita, papad and salad. Kheer will arrive later.

View attachment 684794

Food is delicious and as I tell RD about it, I am advised to order kulhar wali chai, since it is supposed to be great here and I do just that.

View attachment 684793

After kheer, it doesn’t tastes as good, but is quite decent.

I am stuffed like anything and apart from paneer, I finish off everything. For some reason, I just don’t trust paneer at hotels, apart from the really good ones and on highways, I just avoid it completely.

I walk back to the bus, trying to make my sis and RD jealous by WhatsApping them what I just ate :D!

What follows is a non-stop WhatsApp session, which lasts till I cross Rampur-Rudrapur stretch with relative ease. Thankfully the suspension wasn’t too bad, at least in the front, but I doubt passengers in rear seats enjoyed that stretch.

Day 2, 17th July

It’s 2am, by the time we reach Rudrapur. There are plenty of passengers waiting to get out, before Rudrapur bus station. Only problem, door to passenger compartment is locked shut. Conductor has been sleeping in passenger cabin, enjoying AC; now he too is stuck on this side with only driver on the other side, who does his best to help conductor and passengers on this side, unlock the door.

View attachment 684790

After 10 minutes of struggle, door finally opens and passengers can get off. Conductor holds the door open, till we finally reach Rudrapur bus station and bus is parked and driver proceeds to remove the lock completely.

It is raining outside; it has been raining for a while now. I am eager to reach Haldwani, so that I can get a connecting bus to go deeper in to Kumaon, likely Pithoragarh and find options after arriving there. The later I reach there, fewer options I will have and yet, driver is in no mood to move from here and spends half an hour at the bus station.

Even the Rudrapur to Haldwani stretch is a little bumpy this time around. I guess rain has taken a toll on things and yet, drizzle continues and accompanies us till Haldwani, and then somewhat slows down.

It is around 3:40am, when I get off from Delhi – Haldwani bus. Now it is time to hunt for a bus to go deeper in to Uttarakhand, not sure where, but somewhere, maybe to Dharchula.

But the only buses I see around me are heading for Almora and of course the same ole Dharamdhar bus, I took on my last trip to Kausani. I don’t want to board that one again.

Biggest issue of traveling alone with two bags is, going to loo. It is hard work, balancing two bags at the same time, and yet, must be done. And after the careful balancing act :p, I head to information counter to ask for bus to Pithoragarh.

The gent at information cum booking counter instead asks me, whether I have seen any Pithoragarh buses, I reply negatively, and he tells me last one was at 2:30!

Just then a driver walks alongside me and tells the gent at information counter to register his bus, which is heading to Nachani!

Nachani?

Did you just say Nachani?

Yes.

Where is the bus?

Over there.

He points me towards the location of the bus and I head over to it. This is so darn perfect! My search had ended at Nachani last year and it seems destined to begin there as well!

View attachment 684795

I board the bus and take a seat. Then get off to get something to munch on en route, and decide to splurge a little and get couple of cans of Red Bull, one for now, and another later.

Bus starts and head towards Kathgodam UTC shed.

Bus is refueled; new driver and conductor take charge.

I ask the conductor to make my ticket till Nachani; he is hesitant to do that. Tells me, we won’t likely be able to make it to Nachani, but we will likely make it to Thal and from there I can take a shared taxi. But if that happens, he will issue a part refund.

I am ok with that idea, in fact now I am thinking of Thal, there are couple of temples there I want to photograph and as it is, Nachani doesn’t have much to offer, apart from a raging river and a Shani Temple, that looked interesting to me last time around.

We start our journey towards hills, cold wind coming in from open window is a lot more soothing and intoxicating than the AC, adventure begins…
Great Sir, waiting for remaining part...
 

Yogesh Sarkar

Administrator
Day 2, 17th July, God takes the reign of navigation…

We slowly start climbing, I love this part of the journey, because that is when the transition from plains to mountains occurs, and more importantly, I can breathe her intoxicating scent, which brings me back here, again and again.

I breathe in and turn off music, I no longer need it. Haldwani looks absolutely beautiful at night, shimmering in the valley below. Rain begins and it is time to close the windows.

It is raining hard and conductor and driver are worried that the road to Almora might be closed. Conductor constantly tries to connect with other buses ahead, trying to work out the next course of action.

It is 5am when we reach Bhowali; it is a beautiful town, especially when seen from top on a rainy morning. Today it looks even more beautiful and as we pull into bus station for tea break, it becomes all too apparent, that we will have to take the alternate route via Ramgarh to reach Almora. Even that could be closed now. So the conductor decides not to charge the Rs. 30 extra fee for now, for taking the longer route. It will be charged once we reach Almora.

Bus pulls out from Bhowali, and we start climbing up, taking the road to Mukteshwar. This route is not only longer, it is also narrower and in a way, more technical. With heavy rain and clouds engulfing the road, visibility is down big time and yet we continue.

There are landslides here and there, water coming into the bus through the ventilation system, which has fans, which I have never seen working in any of the UTC bus. Yet it is letting enough water in, to force me to sit on the aisle seat, instead of window. Thankfully no one is sitting next to me, so I am free to do that.

Since last year, I have seen beauty of Kumaon in almost all forms, and I have come to love her. But today, she is something altogether different. Even though I have done multiple monsoon trips to Kumaon, this is the first one, where it is raining hard and continuously, and she looks absolutely stunning.

An unparalleled beauty with wet hair and a fire in her eyes, which can melt your heart and light your soul on fire, in a way, that no one can except her.

I love her, I love her like this.

Couple of hours later, we make it back on the main highway and reach the usual stop before Almora. Thankfully rain has slowed down to a drizzle, so we can step outside for much needed nourishment, in form of Kumaoni breakfast, consisting of black chickpeas, boiled potatoes and cucumber raita, along with tea.

kumaoni-breakfast.jpg


The bus, drenched in water and even leaking water inside, still looks a lot more appealing than any Volvo or other luxury bus I have ever seen.

bus-stop-before-almora.jpg


We are running late, and conductor is already making excuses for not going to Thal. He doesn’t want to go there. Neither does he issue us tickets for Rs. 30 he charges for taking the longer route.

We start and as we enter Almora, rain lashes down on us at full force. Bus is now beginning to leak from here and there, conductor has to abandon his seat and sit in front, thankfully there aren’t many people in the bus, and everyone can afford to move away from the drips.

But we can’t move away from the flowing mountains, with rivulets forming here and there.

All bets are off now. If it continues like this, there is a fairly good chance we could get stuck on the road due to a landslide or worse still, be under it. There is no telling, how far and how long the journey is going to continue, and I like that uncertainty.

There is nothing for me to do now, except sit back and soak in the beauty of Kumaon. It seems more dangerous and ferocious she becomes, all the more enchanting she appears. There are clouds below us in the valley, on the road we are passing through and in the sky above.

Everything is thoroughly soaked in the life giving liquid, which can end our lives at any given moment as well.

Another few hours of continuous rain, and there is no telling if even the road we have just crossed, will remain open or not.

But it doesn’t. Rain stops, just in time. Yet it is still cloudy, wet and beautiful outside.

kumaon.jpg


Around noon we reach Seraghat. I am hungry and it is time to eat at one of my favorite road side dhaba. Once again, I order the veg thali.

lunch-sheraghat.jpg


Things have changed since last year, food is no longer good and prices have gone up a little as well, Rs. 60 for the thali. After buying a bottle of water, I head back in to the bus. Soon other passengers board the bus as well, complaining about quality of food.

Passengers get on and get off; I am the only one heading till Nachani. There is another passenger, who has to go till Thal, everyone else, gets off few villages later. By the time we reach Berinag, there are only 4 passengers in the bus.

Conductor has been successful in convincing those in headquarter, that it is unsafe to proceed to Thal. Now they plan to drop the two of us off at Udiyari Bend, get us in a shared taxi and head to Bageshwar, where lodging etc. is better than Thal.

As we drive towards Udiyari Bend, I see a mile marker mentioning Chaukori, 6km. I ask conductor if Chaukori is en route or away from the route to Udiyari Bend?

Don’t you have to go to Nachani?

I am traveling, so I can go anywhere, right now Chaukori looks interesting.

A smile comes to conductors face. He is taking the road to Bageshwar from Udiyari Bend and Chaukori falls en route. He will drop me at Chaukori before proceeding further, but before that, he has to find taxi for the chap going to Thal, so we stop at Udiyari Bend for tea break.

Soon a small verbal duel breaks out between two taxi drivers. First one had agreed to take the passenger who had gotten off from our bus and another chap to Thal for Rs. 300. Then another taxi with 4 passengers came from Berinag and agreed to take the duo for a lot less. First driver is angry, because according to him deal has been struck and other driver can’t poach his client, so he parks his taxi ahead of his taxi.

We get on the bus, and head towards Chaukori, leaving the ruckus behind.

Conductor drops me right in front of the gate of KMVN Guest House, we bid each other farewell, while he continues his journey towards Bageshwar, I head inside the KMVN Guest House. Nachani buses have been special for me for the third time, on first occasion it had stopped at an ATM for me to withdraw money, next day it had waited for me to arrive to start from Nachani, and now the entire bus had come to Chaukori to drop me off :D.

Cheapest room there is for Rs. 990 a night and includes breakfast. It is good enough for me and around 3pm, I check into room 004.

kmvn-chaukori-room.jpg


It is raining outside and yet, it is oh so beautiful.

chaukori-view-from-room.jpg


I sit back and relax. There is nothing much to do now, except watch the rain fall.

Best part is, watching the clouds move in and engulfing everything, completely making everything invisible, which was visible just few minutes or even seconds ago.

clouds-moving-in.jpg


I order tea and pakoda, and take my umbrella and go outside.


Fifteen minutes later, I am informed my tea and pakodas are ready, so I head back inside the room; sit in front of the window to eat them. I would have loved to have a balcony right now and chair outside, but this is alright as well. Pakodas are good and so is the tea.

chai-pakoda.jpg


For dinner I order egg curry and rotis, they are delicious as well.

egg-curry.jpg


Meanwhile, rain has been going on nonstop, at times in form of a drizzle and at times a little faster than that, but nothing serious. There is nothing much to do, except listen to music, browse the web and chat till late in the night.

And as I finally decide to go to sleep around 2am, it is still raining outside and I still don’t know why I am here and haven’t yet really connected with myself.

Click here to read the next part ->
 
Last edited:

nadz11.ns

Super User
Beautifully put @Yogesh Sarkar =D>
Loved the way you put together your thoughts. We all go through a phase where everything seems to fall apart, yet it is what makes us strong at the same time.
Hope you find this time what you had been searching [-o<
 

Yogesh Sarkar

Administrator
Thank you. I have done numerous trips to Uttarakhand in public transport, experience has been pretty good so far. Best option is to take Volvo or AC bus r train till Haldwani and then take local bus.
 
Top