Kingdom of Headhunters - Mon, Nagaland


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A new experience all together. Damn scary to say the least. I was in Imphal in June where I was told stories how terrorist are operating through Burma side into Manipur and Nagaland.

By the way, leaving Spiti log in hanging, not good my friend.


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We got a whisky bottle for the Angh but unable to find Chicken or meat for him.. It’s a tradition to bring gifts for the Angh..Being Sunday we could only arrange a bottle of whiskey but no meat..

We had several confusions along with the fear of those terrorists.. We had very less cash.. we did not have a place to stay there.. if we would not find a place to stay how safe it would be spending night in the car also in such an open place.. Lets do it we told each other.. that’s the real adventure is not it?

And without wasting time we started to cover remaining 41 KMs for Lungwa/Longwa.. The forest became more denser and could not spot a single human being for long long time..Yes we were smelling the danger in the air.. We were very hungry by then we stopped at a small place and that shopkeeper was from Moranhat so Sandeep had a nice bonding with him and he prepared Maggi for us even though he did not have a proper kitchen and while paying he strictly said No Money..

And there I met the very first Tattooed person ..yes that was a headhunter ..In those days they used to be great warriors and these days they were too friendly.. He posed photos with us and happy to accept a cup of tea from us ;)

The shop where we had maggi


Konyak dog

The true King Chilly/Ghost Chilly (Bhoot Jolokhia)


My first meeting with the Tattooed faced


Again we were travelling on patkai hills..Light started fading and it was getting colder finally we saw the board of Lungwa village and we entered the village..

Lovely Patkai Hills







Finally we were reaching

Lungwa village on background (Red house is King's Palace)



A konyak house

Lungwa village

It’s a tradition to take permission first from the Angh to enter the village.. We reached Angh’s house .. there were so many people and we waited for the Angh .. After 30 minutes he came .. I have never believed that he was such a down to earth guy.. My very first impression was such a young looking guy was the King :eek:

He called us..I offered him the whisky bottle he happily took that and asked me whether we wanted to stay at his house or he would open the guest house.. I showed respect and told whatever your wish.. He opened a room for us and told to get freshup and ready and in the mean time he had some meeting with the local politicians in his drawing room..

Meeting the King

The younger Queen

He arranged a guy to take care of us also would guide us.. What a hospitality !!

He took us to the Zero point that’s the International border between india and Myanmar.. What a feeling to stand on both the countries.. left leg in India and right one in Myanmar .. and I was feeling great and proud of myself that I have crossed into all the possible land border crossing into Myanmar from india. [There are 4 official border crossing into Myanmar from India 1. Moreh in Manipur;2.Zokhawthar in Mizoram; 3.Nampong (Pangasau pass) in Arunachal Pradesh and 4.Lungwa in Nagaland] Another dream lived J Trust me that was a special feeling.. We could see so many parts of Myanmar so many villages ,road to Myanmar .

Then we went to another point where sunset was brilliant..what a view of sunset on Burmese skies J

Finally we were back to King’s palace.. and king was waiting for us… First we were served tea with some cake .. King came in our room and started chatting about the life and all.. what a peson such down to earth.. According to him they used to have a very old traditional house and Nagaland govt had built this house for them also built a guest house for the tourists that would be taken care by the king and his men.. Generally none was allowed to stay at kings house but I really did not know how he allowed us to stay with him..


Burmese roads

Burmese village

another proud moment for me


"Borders restricted us otherwise we would have gone much beyond "

amazing sunset

Time to head home .. after landing in their farm land in Myanmar


The specialty of the house rather I will say King’s palace was the International border just goes on the middle of the house.. and literally one side of the house is in India and the other part is in Myanmar.

At that moment he had 43 villages under him and the most surprising part was only 4 villages were present in India.. 2 in Nagaland and 2 in Arunachal remaining all the villages were in Myanmar.. and everyday people from both the sides used to cross into the other country without any hassle..

The king had one queen and from her there were 5 daughters so people were scared who would take over as the next king.. so The king got marries to another lady and after giving birth to 2 daughters finally a son arrived.. I read this news over newspaper and the birth of the child was celebrated hugely both in Indian and Burmese konyak villages .. But never seen a single picture of that kid.All the queens and their kids staying together in that same house..The elder queen was very nice to us in taking care..

Dinner was sumptuous rice,dal,salad,Mithun fried..that was dried mithun cooked in potato and some herb absolutely fantastic J Blended with the affection of the elder queen.. We were having dinner with the King but he was eating on Burmese side and we were eating in India side. That was also a tradition that guest are not allowed to eat on Burmese side only king and his family are allowed..

Evening snacks

;) ;) Kaala Paani

International border crosses on that fire

Konyak ornaments

Royal dinner with the King

Yummy dinner


Fantastic personality :) a true friend

A loving father :)


Post dinner we were damn tired and resting in our room when the king’s man our guide called that king was calling us in his secret house :D

C e n s o r e d




Pride of Konyak ... its removed from neck while practising these stuffs ;)

Before entering the old cottage type house which was separated from the main palace the air was smelling with drugs (Opium) yes its was the affair with Opium inside …

Not writing anything about that as promised to Angh who is a dear friend also ..

We retired quite late that night and was experiencing how the entire day’s tiredness and scare turned out to be out of this world hospitality :) :)



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Quite interesting start Tapas, beautiful nature and seeing a unknown part of India through you.
A new experience all together. Damn scary to say the least. I was in Imphal in June where I was told stories how terrorist are operating through Burma side into Manipur and Nagaland.

By the way, leaving Spiti log in hanging, not good my friend.
Thanks Satish bhai
Will update Spiti log today :D This is a small log so i will finish soon...
This part is more scary as its the border of Arunachal and Myanmar.. Easy for these chaps to rush into Myanmar in the dense forest...
I will start another log of my travel to the 2 bordering district of Arunachal..

Great adventure, beautiful landscapes and a lovely royal family.
Thanks Anna