Land of Highlanders - Mizoram


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Myanmar here I come

Could not get up to see the sunrise.. no regrets.. was excited as I would be traveling very close to Myanmar.. That’s Champai..had been dreaming from a long long time…while brushing my teeth got a call from the Sumo counter guy to come soon .. I took another 15 minutes to reach him.. and noticed only 3 passengers travelling in that sumo.. Sumos are called Maxi cabs in Mizoram so from now I will mention sumo as maxi cab..

Forgot to mention previous day after whole day trying Fanai’s number finally had a talk with him in the night.. he was busy the entire day as expected in church.. Fanai is also a colleague of @Gunin and was from Lunglei.. He provided one plan but it was very hectic… but I did not had Plan B infact I did not have Plan A ;) Honestly I kept his plan in my mind and trying my best to act on that…

So finally we boarded the Maxi cab and on the way…I was still thinking the words of RK and Mimi that anywhere away from Aizawl I must struggle for language as hardly anyone understands hindi and English. One guys was sitting next to me infact we both were sitting in the middle row.. Fresh alcohol smell was coming from his mouth.. Ha ha Mizoram is/was a Dry state ;) and to add that he started smoking his local cigarette inside the vehicle.. :eek: and looked at me with the typical questions ..where I was from ? why I came there? Bla bla.. But in sometime he was normal and proudly said Mizoram is the most peaceful place in India.. no fighting for religion .. no division between castes…even in work places all are treated equally.. He was working in Indian Navy in kerala and was on cavation.. He improved my knowledge some more about the advantages of Christianity in the state..

more about christanity

The living standard of the common people was greatly improved after Christian religion penetrated into the thick Hills. Social lives were transformed through humanitarian works provided by the missionaries and also the Church. Personal health, hygiene and public sanitation within the household and outside localities were highly improved due to the importance given by the missionaries in this field at the very onset. The coming of Fraser, a missionary doctor was a blessing to the Hills, as he performed his best to serve the people by giving medical treatments and social services. The activities that he took for the welfare of the public during his short stay were incomparable. Villages were sanitized, dispensaries were opened and medical treatments were given to both town and village folks. There was also a visible change and improvement in the way of dresses and designs. Modern mode of living began to be practiced and adopted by many Lushais. There was a marked advancement in room decorations and house designs which became more and more Westernized. European manufactured goods found its place and Western cloths made their appearance among many locals especially among the educated middle class. The town dwellers started taking the Western 234 lifestyles, fashion and behavior.117 Material goods came to be highly cherished and the whole social trend drifted into materialism. The Lushais were no more lacking behind the other folks in India towns and cities soon after the British left them. The emerging trend in the urban society soon penetrated the rural villages and almost each and everyone became conscious of their dress, hair, household material and decoration, living standard and income as well as health and hygiene. The form of music and dance began to change from traditional to Western. The early missionaries discouraged the native Christians to compose songs and hymns in traditional tunes as they considered it to be somewhat connected with the native ritual lore.118 Therefore, initially instead of composing new hymns, existing Western hymns were translated into Duhlian-Lushai dialect and used in worship and devotional services. Otherwise, the Lushais were good composers of songs and music as they were naturally great lovers of music and art. They were creative and talented people as well. Their skills would be proved by the fact that many hymns were later on composed by the native Christians themselves, many of which became very popular within and outside the Lushai Hills even till today. Christianity brought radical adaption in the traditional practices of death and burial. Every village began to have its common burial ground at the village outskirts and the rich and poor alike were buried there instead of the traditional practice of burying the dead nearby the house. Even the tribal marriage system was vividly transformed. Arranged marriage became less common with the increasing adoption of love marriage.

He was speaking without stopping also continuously smoking one after another cancer sticks..At one place we stopped for a small break.. I must mention here roads in Mizoram are though narrow but very good in condition unlike Arunachal Pradesh.. also I noticed there are not much transportation problems between major places ..i enquired and came to know in almost every hour there were maxi cabs running from Aizawl to Champai till evening..

I noticed one more thing after the break when all were boarded in Maxi cab the elderly most lady started prayer for the safety of the vehicle and the passengers.. and all the co-passengers followed her..and again we were on the road..

glimpse of mizo food

Soon we took the lunch break at 8.30 AM yes you heard it right.. The name of the place is Seling. There was a beautiful church..But no time to enter so entered inside the small food joint guided by the driver and the guy who was traveling with me.. though the guy did not order anything but was taking care of me as a translator…though he was insisting me to have some noodles but I decided to try the Mizo thali.. and I joined with the driver and the lady.. and they served one by one dishes.. and everything was managed by all ladies ..well it was expected.. food was Ok type.. nothing great… without spices ..but I got a chance to try each and the end they served a glass of milk :eek: I kept good distance from milk :D I paid the money it was only 100 rupees per head :eek:

This popular Mizo dish is made of steamed vegetables along with pork, spinach and bamboo shoot, and spiced with local herbs. Though it’s mostly prepared with pork sauce (made out of pork and mustard),


boiled laipatta



and the fullset

milk after food

We were on the move again.. long way to go..That was my very first ride on public transport in that state.. and that was completely different feelings than Arunachal..Though people are very much talkative but super caring as well..One girl who boarded from Seling sat next to me and the smoking guy moved to the back seat.. and the girl named PCI became friendly to me.. we soon took a break in the next so called town and the smoker guy got down also insisted me if I would change my plan I must visit his village to see the true Mizo culture.. which was tempting for me but I left those decision on time as I was not even sure what would be my next move post Champai…

I must say Mizo are super ice cream lovers.. Trust me I was offered atleast 10 times to have icecream by the super caring lady sitting on the front row..and she took more than 10 ice creams..

Passing through lush green forests,blue mountains and amazing wind with some mizo music is just awesome feeling.. and that’s what I was feeling.. PCI and the lady sitting on front row started some discussion for quite long time and it was getting heated one.. I interrupted and came to know that it was about the lifting of liquor ban in Mizoram.. according to them the quality of the alcohol sold in Mizoram that moment was quite low. Also they were strongly saying it was not a good decision by government.. I kept my few points to make them think and stay calm ;)

We reached Dulte where PCI got down and we took a tea cum snacks break.. I bid bye to PCI also promised her to meet in Aizawl on my return..We were travelling on the good road.. took few breaks and the journey was not getting much painful..



selling town







local shopkeepers





We crossed places like Kawlukulh,Khawzawl,Chhungtekhua..those are little bigger places and churches present everywhere…





This is a local vehicle made of wood.. used to carry loads also people and animals.. quite popular in North East specially in Mizoram and Nagaland... Hats off to their brain.. aunty showing the usage




We entered Champai around 3.30 PM ,a town with scattered house.. I was able to see the paddy fields.. I was able to see the mountains which were blocking Myanmar from India. I was excited from I was quite closer to another nation.

I received a call from Mami , the hotel owner in Champai and the friend of Mimi about my whereabouts.. she was waiting for me in the hotel also guided the driver to drop me in hotel.. We were on the main market of Champai..and as usual I was the last one to get dropped.I was witnessing the local markets where all ladies were the shopkeeper also lot of foreign goods everywhere specially Chinese and thai products along with local foods… and we were at the entrance of the hotel..The name of the hotel is Hotel Chawngthu …Mami greeted me..she was a serious business lady with a heart of gold… she knows the true meaning of hospitality.. she assigned one of her staff Joseph to take care of me in everything.. I bid the driver bye but I really don’t know what was the worry on the driver’s face that moment and he took my number and told me if any issue I must call him.. I relaxed him by saying ‘no worries ..i know survival’ that the care from his side..

Joseph carried my back pack to the terrace .. It was a brand new hotel.. and there were 2 rooms kept for me.. one is a double one which was quite spacious.. and another smaller one I liked the cozy one.. and took it at the price of 1200 the bigger one was 1800 INR… amazing view from the balcony.. and room was well decorated with a sofa TV .. I thought of taking a shower and venture outside.. Got fresh after such a long journey .. came down as I was bit hungry.. and the lunch was something not suitable for me I guessed.. and smell of those meats were coming from inside… something not very comfortable I was.. so ordered chicken chowmein …It was indeed yum…The Tripuri chef did his part too well… When I asked Mami what all places I can walk around she immediately ordered Joseph to guide me.. that was a nice gesture from her side.. So Joseph and myself were on the road to explore a bit of Champai.. It was a crowded market place and villagers around the main town depends on Champai.. when I asked Joseph can I have some beer.. he replied ‘why not :eek: anything you need will be available here :eek: ‘ we walked down to a secret place and collected 2 beer can of course Myanmarese beers by paying 200.. a bit expensive is not it ?? Mami knew my plan from Mimi so she had guided Joseph to help me in entering we went to Sumo counter which would take me to Zokhawthar the border town of India .. Language is a big big problem there none understands English or hindi.. Joseph was my savior there..sadly there was no confirmed sumo and not any exact time.. once people would be full then sumo would start.. so better plan was I told if the sumo would get full then give me a call and I would join as the hotel was nearby…all agreed..

champhai town

my room


myanmar behind that last hill


notice some smoke.. it was almost everywhere in Mizoram..

thats why its called rice bowl of Mizoram


Mizo people love their own meat and that market was providing all the evidence… so many types of meats.. from beef to chicken to pork and other animals… we came back to hotel and I decided to enjoy those beers by watching the sunset and views from my balcony… and I did that.. night was not so eventful just a plain dinner as I didn’t wish to explore more meats in Mizoram.. I was not feeling well must be for the lunch.. Tripuri chef cooked my dinner homestyle .. menu was rice ,egg curry,dal, boiled lai patta and another watery miso curry and salad.. though it was homely but I could not resist but puked.. yes the meat lunch was showing effect on me.. and I was getting worried.. as I have more longer and remote places to travel.. before sleeping Joseph and myself discussed long.. I must say he was a great guy…

Slept calmly thinking about next day’s entry to Myanmar J

all types of meats


mizos love flowers a lot.. you can notice almost everyone's houses

one of the best noodles

burmese beers

20 ciggy at just 30 INR... one more reason why Mizos smoke like anything

my dinner.. thanks to the Tripuri chef
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I must say Mizo are super ice cream lovers.. Trust me I was offered atleast 10 times to have icecream by the super caring lady sitting on the front row..and she took more than 10 ice creams..
Will you offer me same ?
100 times ?
I will say - YES !

Then who is Big Ice-cream Lover ?