sayshh
Member
So far in the Chhota Char Dham, we have covered 2 dham, that means we are done with half of the trip. But the experience of Kedarnath itself was so eventful, that I have to split it into three posts.
Kedarnath (part 1)
This part is about reaching Kedarnath, which happened somewhat as planned.
22-Sept-2018: Uttarkashi - Guptkashi
We woke up to a gloomy morning. The rain that started previous night had continued unabated. We started the journey after having (complimentary) breakfast at the TRH. On our way to the day's destination Guptkashi, we would be passing through Tehri dam and Rudraprayag. I had seen so many photos of Tehri lake with its typical turquoise blue water, and I was looking forward to this day since the start of the tour.
Expectation (not my click)
Image courtesy: euttaranchal.com
Reality
There is nothing worth mentioning about the journey till we started seeing the Tehri lake. Despite the gloominess, this still was probably the best thing we saw during the day. The clouds were lingering around the mountains, and it did present itself in a different kind of beauty.
One of the better views
Our guide kept narrating some trivia and history about old Tehri as the bus moved along the Tehri lake.
Floating cottages of GMVN, accessed by boats
As it was raining most of the time, there was no opportunity to take photographs. The below section is going to be just narration about reaching Guptkashi.
Soon hunger started making its presence felt, especially since Tehri lake was no more visible to keep us entertained. Again we chanced upon a small restaurant by the curving road. The restaurant was not prepared for a sudden influx of 18 hungry souls, so it took a while to get the required quantity prepared freshly and served.
Journey onwards was the same laborious uphill and downhill drive, and there were not much points of interest with weather playing spoilsport. Some people of our group had not withdrawn money in Uttarkashi (ATM hunt and rain), so we stopped at an ATM in Srinagar. By evening we reached Rudraprayag, but we were running late and proceeded non-stop. Now river Mandakini accompanied us, flowing in her usual form. But signs of devastation caused by her raging form in 2013 could be felt everywhere.
The Sun was almost setting. Everyone's patience was running thin and tea break had become crucial. We stopped by a small tea shop by the muddy road (destroyed in 2013, and still being restored). Our guide used this opportunity to brief us about reaching Kedarnath tomorrow. He also collected and shared everyone's phone numbers.
The briefing went something like this:
We had to extensively rearrange the luggage to carry just 1 night's worth of requirements in small backpacks. Then went for a walk wearing (to get a feel of) the knee support band before going to bed, still wondering if I had made the right decision. Tomorrow will tell us...
23-Sept-2018: Guptkashi - Gaurikund - Kedarnath
One bad decision can lead to another, and yet another...
Due to the incessant rain, there was not much chance to click photographs. Everything was wet, wet, wet...
The rain continued to pour as we stepped out of the TRH after tea. Short while later we got dropped at Sonprayag. From here we separated into smaller groups and took jeeps to reach Gaurikund. Though we both had umbrellas, we bought cheap barsati for Rs. 50 each at a small shop for extra measure.
Then we proceeded to the Gauri mata temple. After praying for the best
, we had breakfast. Apart from us two, another member of our tour group was also going by foot. We decided to stick together and started climbing. Due to the rain, waterfalls by the trek route had swelled and many of them were flowing over the path. We were making reasonable progress, and stopped for a tea break and hot pakora near Jungle Chatti. This is when we realized how nice a hot tea can be... and also how water was trickling through the barsati and wetting the clothes.
Me trudging along in the rain
We proceeded onwards, taking it easy, especially I didn't want to push myself and I was doing quite okay. My cousin was a little ahead of me. As we were climbing the switchbacks towards Bheembali, I stopped as usual to rest for couple of minutes. I tried to continue... but... I couldn't keep a step forward with my left leg!! I called out to him few times till he heard me. He stopped and said "I'll wait, take your time and come".
For the next 5 minutes I tried many ways to see if I could move, but NO!
Left knee wouldn't bear my weight! My cousin realized something is wrong and approached me. Luckily 100m ahead there was a small shop, and with his help I reached the shop and sat down. Had tea and biscuits and rested for few minutes, but upon getting up there was no relief. Soon I decided that I should take a pony, but were in the middle (almost). The shopkeeper suggested that we may get them from Bheembali which is a little distance away. Obviously there was no way I could reach even there.
We both sat there. I was going through all kind of emotions and thoughts, but in that process we were wasting precious time. So with a heavy heart I asked my cousin to move ahead. I decided to get any pony that is going back empty to Gaurikund, utterly disappointed that it has to end this way.
I don't know if I should call it good luck or bad, three men carrying empty pitthu were going down. I called out. After estimating my weight to be around 72-74 kgs they quoted an exorbitant price. Having no other choice, I agreed. I got into the rather comfortable seat after taking off the barsati. I was covered by a plastic sheet from head to toe and asked to sit still.
From here onwards my experience was quite a strange mix. I was comfortably seated with the plastic sheet blocking rain and wind. But my clothes, shoes, socks were wet. So I was still shivering, and my feet were going numb. All I could see was a grey sky. The only thing breaking this monotony were the short conversations exchanged with my cousin. The relaxing pitter-patter sound of rain falling on the sheet was pulling me into sleep. Ever used the sound of rain to fall asleep?
The three men took turns to carry me, and we stopped near Lincholi for a break. My carriers ordered aloo paratha, me and my cousin settled for some hot Maggi noodles. I was out of the cocoon now, and I could feel the cold air. It is funny when you eat with shivering hands, and noodles keep falling back into the plate!
The convoy proceeded after the plate was emptied into the stomach. The sky had turned darker shade of grey, that's all I could make out. Soon it became dark, and my cousin confirmed that we had reached. I thankfully settled the dues for my carriers.
Having a rest of 3 hours seemed to have helped my leg, and I could walk independently, but limping badly. After checking in at the reception, they directed us towards a dormitory. Rest of the tour members had reached already and were resting. First thing we did was - remove the shoes!
Running hot water was a godsend, it felt heavenly and restored the sense of feeling in the fingers and toes. Quickly changed into dry clothes, ordered dinner inside the room and retired to bed.
Lessons learnt:
Kedarnath (part 1)
This part is about reaching Kedarnath, which happened somewhat as planned.
22-Sept-2018: Uttarkashi - Guptkashi
We woke up to a gloomy morning. The rain that started previous night had continued unabated. We started the journey after having (complimentary) breakfast at the TRH. On our way to the day's destination Guptkashi, we would be passing through Tehri dam and Rudraprayag. I had seen so many photos of Tehri lake with its typical turquoise blue water, and I was looking forward to this day since the start of the tour.
Expectation (not my click)
Image courtesy: euttaranchal.com
Reality
There is nothing worth mentioning about the journey till we started seeing the Tehri lake. Despite the gloominess, this still was probably the best thing we saw during the day. The clouds were lingering around the mountains, and it did present itself in a different kind of beauty.
One of the better views
Our guide kept narrating some trivia and history about old Tehri as the bus moved along the Tehri lake.
Floating cottages of GMVN, accessed by boats
As it was raining most of the time, there was no opportunity to take photographs. The below section is going to be just narration about reaching Guptkashi.
Soon hunger started making its presence felt, especially since Tehri lake was no more visible to keep us entertained. Again we chanced upon a small restaurant by the curving road. The restaurant was not prepared for a sudden influx of 18 hungry souls, so it took a while to get the required quantity prepared freshly and served.
Journey onwards was the same laborious uphill and downhill drive, and there were not much points of interest with weather playing spoilsport. Some people of our group had not withdrawn money in Uttarkashi (ATM hunt and rain), so we stopped at an ATM in Srinagar. By evening we reached Rudraprayag, but we were running late and proceeded non-stop. Now river Mandakini accompanied us, flowing in her usual form. But signs of devastation caused by her raging form in 2013 could be felt everywhere.
The Sun was almost setting. Everyone's patience was running thin and tea break had become crucial. We stopped by a small tea shop by the muddy road (destroyed in 2013, and still being restored). Our guide used this opportunity to brief us about reaching Kedarnath tomorrow. He also collected and shared everyone's phone numbers.
The briefing went something like this:
Now I realized I had to take a firm decision on how I will reach Kedarnath. Thinking to myself:
While I was drowned in these thoughts, we reached our stay at Guptkashi by 8:30 PM. I decided to discuss this with my cousin over dinner. After recollecting the experience at Yamunotri, we arrived at a conclusion(!!) that the pain is pronounced on downhill slope, and climbing up should be manageable. Also my cousin had a knee support band. So we decided to walk to Kedarnath by foot, and return to Gaurikund by ponies.
We had to extensively rearrange the luggage to carry just 1 night's worth of requirements in small backpacks. Then went for a walk wearing (to get a feel of) the knee support band before going to bed, still wondering if I had made the right decision. Tomorrow will tell us...23-Sept-2018: Guptkashi - Gaurikund - Kedarnath
One bad decision can lead to another, and yet another...
Due to the incessant rain, there was not much chance to click photographs. Everything was wet, wet, wet...
The rain continued to pour as we stepped out of the TRH after tea. Short while later we got dropped at Sonprayag. From here we separated into smaller groups and took jeeps to reach Gaurikund. Though we both had umbrellas, we bought cheap barsati for Rs. 50 each at a small shop for extra measure.
Then we proceeded to the Gauri mata temple. After praying for the best
, we had breakfast. Apart from us two, another member of our tour group was also going by foot. We decided to stick together and started climbing. Due to the rain, waterfalls by the trek route had swelled and many of them were flowing over the path. We were making reasonable progress, and stopped for a tea break and hot pakora near Jungle Chatti. This is when we realized how nice a hot tea can be... and also how water was trickling through the barsati and wetting the clothes. Me trudging along in the rain
We proceeded onwards, taking it easy, especially I didn't want to push myself and I was doing quite okay. My cousin was a little ahead of me. As we were climbing the switchbacks towards Bheembali, I stopped as usual to rest for couple of minutes. I tried to continue... but... I couldn't keep a step forward with my left leg!! I called out to him few times till he heard me. He stopped and said "I'll wait, take your time and come".
For the next 5 minutes I tried many ways to see if I could move, but NO!
Left knee wouldn't bear my weight! My cousin realized something is wrong and approached me. Luckily 100m ahead there was a small shop, and with his help I reached the shop and sat down. Had tea and biscuits and rested for few minutes, but upon getting up there was no relief. Soon I decided that I should take a pony, but were in the middle (almost). The shopkeeper suggested that we may get them from Bheembali which is a little distance away. Obviously there was no way I could reach even there.We both sat there. I was going through all kind of emotions and thoughts, but in that process we were wasting precious time. So with a heavy heart I asked my cousin to move ahead. I decided to get any pony that is going back empty to Gaurikund, utterly disappointed that it has to end this way.
I don't know if I should call it good luck or bad, three men carrying empty pitthu were going down. I called out. After estimating my weight to be around 72-74 kgs they quoted an exorbitant price.
Having no other choice, I agreed. I got into the rather comfortable seat after taking off the barsati. I was covered by a plastic sheet from head to toe and asked to sit still.From here onwards my experience was quite a strange mix. I was comfortably seated with the plastic sheet blocking rain and wind. But my clothes, shoes, socks were wet. So I was still shivering, and my feet were going numb. All I could see was a grey sky. The only thing breaking this monotony were the short conversations exchanged with my cousin. The relaxing pitter-patter sound of rain falling on the sheet was pulling me into sleep. Ever used the sound of rain to fall asleep?
The three men took turns to carry me, and we stopped near Lincholi for a break. My carriers ordered aloo paratha, me and my cousin settled for some hot Maggi noodles. I was out of the cocoon now, and I could feel the cold air. It is funny when you eat with shivering hands, and noodles keep falling back into the plate!
The convoy proceeded after the plate was emptied into the stomach. The sky had turned darker shade of grey, that's all I could make out. Soon it became dark, and my cousin confirmed that we had reached. I thankfully settled the dues for my carriers.Having a rest of 3 hours seemed to have helped my leg, and I could walk independently, but limping badly. After checking in at the reception, they directed us towards a dormitory. Rest of the tour members had reached already and were resting. First thing we did was - remove the shoes!
Running hot water was a godsend, it felt heavenly and restored the sense of feeling in the fingers and toes. Quickly changed into dry clothes, ordered dinner inside the room and retired to bed.Lessons learnt:
- Time is precious - when in doubt about physical fitness, play it safe and utilize pony/doli/pitthu from the starting point
- Normal footwear such as sandals will suffice (or even preferred) as the trail is completely paved
- Trust your umbrella more than the cheap barsati
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After a lot of jostling, we booked 2 ponies.
The scenery looked more and more captivating, especially because of good weather.