Thank you... mine compared to your experiences is just nothing....
My Third Solo Trip to the Himalayas
- Thread starter Khagesh
- Start date
More to come Satinderji. Sick on trek and sick on ride are two entirely different aspects of adventure. The latter pushes to extremes of danger. One just can not even park anywhere in emergencies in hill ride and extremely dangerous.
Anyways, we asked for it and we got it... the spirit of adventure. So no complaints.
Day 8: Guptkashi - Ukimath 21.05.2022 (Saturday)
As usual got up early. The Govt. Hospital opens only at 10:30. Plenty of time on hand, moreover rest day today. After tea, I could see the bright day ahead. My clothes were so dirty. I carried just one more pant and two shirts. Washed and dried in the morning sun.
The hotel seemed to be booked full. Full of people on the terrace. Some were speaking Telugu. Out of curiosity just struck conversation with them. They are a group of nearly 60, going to Kedarnath. Half of them fell sick and they want to abandon their trip and go back. I asked them not to do that, I myself am sick going to hospital, just visit the hospital having come all the way here, do the Kedarbaba Darshan. One of them said, “We have three doctors in our group and they themselves are sick and are advising to abandon the trip.”!! They were not in a mood to take my advice.
When called home, they too advise me to abandon the trip and come back home. Oh, no, I hardly started.
Anyway, went to the Govt. Hospital and timidly approached the doctor: a young chap. My worst fear that haunts in me in these trips is if they ask me to admit in the hospital… now more so during this pandemic time, isolation…
Explained my symptoms. Without a word he wrote a prescription. I asked him, if he wants to conduct a test or something like that. He simply smiled and said these medicines would be enough. I asked him why he was so sure, he said he himself was a victim of the same symptoms! He is from plains of Bihar and was posted on Chardham season duty there in Guptkashi. Uff, such a relief. I asked him if I could continue my trip/trek for which his answer was affirmative. Uff, what a relief.
So weak, walked down, had something to eat for I had to take medicines. Dragged my feet to my hotel room and to add to my predicament, the hotel owner asks me to vacate my room! Some pre-booked guests arriving shortly. No amount of pleading yielded. So weak, so sick and now I have to shift to another hotel. I might as well continue my journey till wherever I could.
Packed and on the move again, so weak now. Now I have to take Chopta road. Since the main road deviation from Kund is closed due to landslide there is another unpaved road just after Guptkashi. Turned left from the main road. My troubles doubled now.
This off roading part, trust me really tested my mettle. Slowly losing confidence; yet all the while telling myself it’s going to be alright. What else I could do on that completely deserted road?
The road goes down completely to the river crossing. Luckily there is a bridge to cross the river Mandakini. Then the uphill drive. Lucky nothing happened as I feared and no water crossing either and I reach the main road.
The road is much of a relief but I find myself feeling giddy and difficult to drive, a near fall. I think those powerful medicines were the culprit. I had to stop, now it’s just too dangerous to ride.
That little patch at the bottom left connects Guptkashi and Ukimath which I took. (This picture I took later from the balcony of my hotel room in Ukimath. Also, see the threatening afternoon cloud buildup.)
The roads are near deserted from here onwards which is a big relief.
Ukimath temple. Nice place. Had darshan. Nearly no one in sight. So happy. My spirits once again high.
The entrance to the temple.
The typical North Indian temple structure, but the stone mandaps are the same everywhere.
Enquired about stay options for which they said I have to go near the market for hotels. So again that scary drive while feeling dizzy and my head reeling now, nearly fainting. I must hurry up and stop the ride now.
Lucky enough, found a place. Nearly empty. Had something to eat and took the afternoon medicines and a siesta break. Feel much better by evening.
A stroll, tea after tea.
Bike parked on the roadside. Guptkashi on the other side of the valley. Deserted roads of Ukimath. So silent so calm. Happy that hotel fellow at Guptkashi threw me out. Happy to be away from the crowds.
Ukimath temple can be seen from the balcony of my hotel room.
Night view. Lights on the opposite mountain Guptkashi and further away could be Phata. Bottom, the temple. Such a serene night. Chillness in the air. Evening prayers on the temple speakers, must be aarti going on. Blissful.
No appetite. Just some biscuits and tea. Hit the bed after taking one night dose of medicines.
As usual got up early. The Govt. Hospital opens only at 10:30. Plenty of time on hand, moreover rest day today. After tea, I could see the bright day ahead. My clothes were so dirty. I carried just one more pant and two shirts. Washed and dried in the morning sun.
The hotel seemed to be booked full. Full of people on the terrace. Some were speaking Telugu. Out of curiosity just struck conversation with them. They are a group of nearly 60, going to Kedarnath. Half of them fell sick and they want to abandon their trip and go back. I asked them not to do that, I myself am sick going to hospital, just visit the hospital having come all the way here, do the Kedarbaba Darshan. One of them said, “We have three doctors in our group and they themselves are sick and are advising to abandon the trip.”!! They were not in a mood to take my advice.
When called home, they too advise me to abandon the trip and come back home. Oh, no, I hardly started.
Anyway, went to the Govt. Hospital and timidly approached the doctor: a young chap. My worst fear that haunts in me in these trips is if they ask me to admit in the hospital… now more so during this pandemic time, isolation…
Explained my symptoms. Without a word he wrote a prescription. I asked him, if he wants to conduct a test or something like that. He simply smiled and said these medicines would be enough. I asked him why he was so sure, he said he himself was a victim of the same symptoms! He is from plains of Bihar and was posted on Chardham season duty there in Guptkashi. Uff, such a relief. I asked him if I could continue my trip/trek for which his answer was affirmative. Uff, what a relief.
So weak, walked down, had something to eat for I had to take medicines. Dragged my feet to my hotel room and to add to my predicament, the hotel owner asks me to vacate my room! Some pre-booked guests arriving shortly. No amount of pleading yielded. So weak, so sick and now I have to shift to another hotel. I might as well continue my journey till wherever I could.
Packed and on the move again, so weak now. Now I have to take Chopta road. Since the main road deviation from Kund is closed due to landslide there is another unpaved road just after Guptkashi. Turned left from the main road. My troubles doubled now.
This off roading part, trust me really tested my mettle. Slowly losing confidence; yet all the while telling myself it’s going to be alright. What else I could do on that completely deserted road?
The road goes down completely to the river crossing. Luckily there is a bridge to cross the river Mandakini. Then the uphill drive. Lucky nothing happened as I feared and no water crossing either and I reach the main road.
The road is much of a relief but I find myself feeling giddy and difficult to drive, a near fall. I think those powerful medicines were the culprit. I had to stop, now it’s just too dangerous to ride.
That little patch at the bottom left connects Guptkashi and Ukimath which I took. (This picture I took later from the balcony of my hotel room in Ukimath. Also, see the threatening afternoon cloud buildup.)
The roads are near deserted from here onwards which is a big relief.
Ukimath temple. Nice place. Had darshan. Nearly no one in sight. So happy. My spirits once again high.
The entrance to the temple.
The typical North Indian temple structure, but the stone mandaps are the same everywhere.
Enquired about stay options for which they said I have to go near the market for hotels. So again that scary drive while feeling dizzy and my head reeling now, nearly fainting. I must hurry up and stop the ride now.
Lucky enough, found a place. Nearly empty. Had something to eat and took the afternoon medicines and a siesta break. Feel much better by evening.
A stroll, tea after tea.
Bike parked on the roadside. Guptkashi on the other side of the valley. Deserted roads of Ukimath. So silent so calm. Happy that hotel fellow at Guptkashi threw me out. Happy to be away from the crowds.
Ukimath temple can be seen from the balcony of my hotel room.
Night view. Lights on the opposite mountain Guptkashi and further away could be Phata. Bottom, the temple. Such a serene night. Chillness in the air. Evening prayers on the temple speakers, must be aarti going on. Blissful.
No appetite. Just some biscuits and tea. Hit the bed after taking one night dose of medicines.
Day 9: Ukimath – Ransi 22.05.2022 (Sunday)
May be the strong antibiotics that I took last night or the health itself, I was feeling drowsy the next morning. This hotel, for the first time, I have a geyser, hot water. Had a long bath. Feel much better now.
I could hear a loud voice in the balcony. It’s my neighbor mentioning Madhyamaheshwar to the hotel owner. I became alert because it’s my next place of visit.
Stuck conversation with him. He is Anand Vyas from Bhopal, an elderly gentleman with his wife Gayatri. Instinctively I liked his friendly behavior and decided to do the trek with them. My plan was a rest day, but he said just reach till Ranchi, rest there and the next day the trek to Madhyamaheshwar.
That suited me well because, I was feeling sleepy, drowsy and what not, best to avoid bike ride. The medicines would last another two nights and Madhyamaheshwar trek would be over during this time.
Parked my bike there itself, left the luggage in the hotel reception and started with just one backpack. Shared jeep ride to Ransi which took about one and half hour ride. Shared the room with these very friendly couple for the night stay.
As usual: evening showers, then heavy rain. Then the sun, the rainbow.
Evening stroll, chatting with locals, tea after tea as usual.
In the evening with the Bhopal couple went to Rakeshwari Devi temple just close to the hotel. May be a 200m climb. The couple were walking so fast. Or is it that I am too slow. It’s good that we made this little trip, I must start tomorrow really early to match their speed.
The temple of Rakeshwari Devi. Nice as usual in the evenings. The chillness in the air is really increasing as the evening approaches.
Please bear with me for the quality of the picture is comparatively very bad; I am aware of that. This time I did not carry any camera considering it waste of weight because I am not going to use it extensively anyway excepting for ‘I had been there’ pictures. Plus, now I have a smart phone unlike other trips where I carried just a Nokia CDMA phone.
More than the photography per se, what struck me was, this little place, and those many bells tell a tale about the general devotion of the common people; I am in Dev Bhoomi… Right?
Had early dinner, freezing night. Popped the pills, telling myself to start early went to bed.
May be the strong antibiotics that I took last night or the health itself, I was feeling drowsy the next morning. This hotel, for the first time, I have a geyser, hot water. Had a long bath. Feel much better now.
I could hear a loud voice in the balcony. It’s my neighbor mentioning Madhyamaheshwar to the hotel owner. I became alert because it’s my next place of visit.
Stuck conversation with him. He is Anand Vyas from Bhopal, an elderly gentleman with his wife Gayatri. Instinctively I liked his friendly behavior and decided to do the trek with them. My plan was a rest day, but he said just reach till Ranchi, rest there and the next day the trek to Madhyamaheshwar.
That suited me well because, I was feeling sleepy, drowsy and what not, best to avoid bike ride. The medicines would last another two nights and Madhyamaheshwar trek would be over during this time.
Parked my bike there itself, left the luggage in the hotel reception and started with just one backpack. Shared jeep ride to Ransi which took about one and half hour ride. Shared the room with these very friendly couple for the night stay.
As usual: evening showers, then heavy rain. Then the sun, the rainbow.
Evening stroll, chatting with locals, tea after tea as usual.
In the evening with the Bhopal couple went to Rakeshwari Devi temple just close to the hotel. May be a 200m climb. The couple were walking so fast. Or is it that I am too slow. It’s good that we made this little trip, I must start tomorrow really early to match their speed.
The temple of Rakeshwari Devi. Nice as usual in the evenings. The chillness in the air is really increasing as the evening approaches.
Please bear with me for the quality of the picture is comparatively very bad; I am aware of that. This time I did not carry any camera considering it waste of weight because I am not going to use it extensively anyway excepting for ‘I had been there’ pictures. Plus, now I have a smart phone unlike other trips where I carried just a Nokia CDMA phone.
More than the photography per se, what struck me was, this little place, and those many bells tell a tale about the general devotion of the common people; I am in Dev Bhoomi… Right?
Had early dinner, freezing night. Popped the pills, telling myself to start early went to bed.
Day 10: Ransi – Kun Chatti 23.05.2022 (Monday)
Got up quite early. It was very cold. The couple were still in deep slumber. Luckily the hotel owner’s kitchen was making tea, had one, and started the trek at 6:30.
From Ransi till about a kilometer of so motorable road, nearly flat. Not even a single soul on the road. I was happy that I am the first trekker of the day. But deep inside, I know I would be the last trekker of the day too at the end of the day. Any way for now, I am alone. Such a nice feeling especially just after that mad crowd on Kedar trek.
Trek start point by 7, had another tea. Here some vehicles were parked, probably they went for Madmaheshwar trek. The level of security and trust in the hilly region is high. One can leave their vehicle unattended even for a long time such as a day or two. No problem.
Vehicles parked and tea shops. Last point of motorable road. From here onwards the trek starts.
Don’t trust these boards for the distance. Madhmahesheshwar is about 20 kms from this point onwards. From the locals I gather that some political lady, some time back, measured it and its more than 20kms I suppose. Anyways, it hardly matters. Just keep going till we reach the place.
The trek route is almost downhill runs through dense forest. No one around.
Since alone, it’s time to spend time with myself. Curiosity and alert mind in full swing. The forest, the fragrance of forest air is just over powering. The low hovering clouds.
How the nature protects itself in her artistic way is quite amusing.
Then that beautiful waterfall just after the bridge comes.
Needless to say, the temptation is too strong to go into the water. It’s just by the roadside. It started to drizzle and rain on and off.
The river Madhuganga accompanies most of the trek. Thick forest. Not scary though alone. No one near sight.
Reached Gounder by 10:30. I know the Bihar couple would overtake me any moment now. Had roti and tea then the morning dose of medicines. As I come out of that little tea shop that friendly voice…. Anand Vyas and his wife in full rain gear wave me.
My shoes already drenched. We trek together may be for ten mins or so and they catchup their tempo and said lets meet at Kun Chatti. Ah, that suits me, letting me by myself.
Snow peaks, mountains, forest, Madhuganga, low clouds and above all that much awaited solitude. What more else one could ask for.
But trust me, the gradient of the route is never below sixty degrees it’s above only. Very very slow I became. Yet, no one overtook me so far excepting those Bhopal couple.
That lonely trek route. See the gradient. Well paved, no chance of getting lost.
No one around. Is it so nice or is it scary now? No, it’s nice. Scary is to follow.
No signal on the phone. Only reliance works here I suppose. Good that the phone silent now. Just enjoying. A group of four or so from West Bengal overtake me.
Curious to note that not even ponies. All ponies went to Kedar! Rarely a lone pony carrying some provisions would overtake or go down.
By the time I reach Naan it’s nearly three. Few trekkers were there and our Vyas couple too. They were fasting for its Monday and doing this trek. Great. They said they go ahead to Kun Chatti and look for accommodation for us. Good idea. Anyway I am a slow trekker. Had noodle and a tea for lunch. Here people were talking about some porter charging Rs.14,000 to carry a sick boy down and the family abandons the trek. Pity.
The evening chillness setting in. Wet clothes. No matter which rain coat, sure enough the water seeps in through seams in those constant windy drizzle.
Soon, it was evening and getting dark. The gradient was so tiring. Few trekkers overtook me. Mostly here I found people are from West Bengal.
From that bugyal the path enters into the forest. I don’t know how much time it would take me to reach Kun Chatti but I have to reach. Because, as my phone is not having signal, my wife or daughter would call Anand and if I don’t meet them by night, what reply they would give to my wife of daughter? Everyone would be tensed. So, I must continue the trek in that darkness though the forest and in that storm, come what might.
In the meantime rain changed into storm. Bit scary now as the day light nearly faded, only that last bit of twilight remained.
I neither heard nor read of any wild life encounters in this part of the jungles. No, need for a lion or tiger here, just a fox would be enough to scare this lonely tired whacked out trekker. Just put my head down trudged along. As I was getting accustomed to the dark surroundings suddenly I felt the presence of two men so close to me. May be I haven’t noticed them because I was walking head down. They looked some forest officials. Asked them how far to reach this mysterious Kun Chatti, they said close, just 10 mins. Well that 10 mins for them would be 30 mins for me.
Like a haunted ghost house, from the far away, I could see the silhouette of a roadside construction, smoke looming above in that darkness. Definitely that could be Kun Chatti. Dragged my feet up and instantly that friendly voice of Vyas. I must have looked like an ET or Shackleton returning after he was stuck the entire winter on that ship wreck at South Pole.
The family and the owner of that little place crammed in that little kitchen around the chullah the only source of much needed heat.
All of us trying to grab the heat.
The owner of the place was so hospitable. Hot roti and sabji served. My toes were near numb with cold and wet, bade good night to them, gulped some water with tablets and just for the sake of decency I managed to remove my shoe and huddled myself in those quilts. Didn’t move an inch till the morning.
Got up quite early. It was very cold. The couple were still in deep slumber. Luckily the hotel owner’s kitchen was making tea, had one, and started the trek at 6:30.
From Ransi till about a kilometer of so motorable road, nearly flat. Not even a single soul on the road. I was happy that I am the first trekker of the day. But deep inside, I know I would be the last trekker of the day too at the end of the day. Any way for now, I am alone. Such a nice feeling especially just after that mad crowd on Kedar trek.
Trek start point by 7, had another tea. Here some vehicles were parked, probably they went for Madmaheshwar trek. The level of security and trust in the hilly region is high. One can leave their vehicle unattended even for a long time such as a day or two. No problem.
Vehicles parked and tea shops. Last point of motorable road. From here onwards the trek starts.
Don’t trust these boards for the distance. Madhmahesheshwar is about 20 kms from this point onwards. From the locals I gather that some political lady, some time back, measured it and its more than 20kms I suppose. Anyways, it hardly matters. Just keep going till we reach the place.
The trek route is almost downhill runs through dense forest. No one around.
Since alone, it’s time to spend time with myself. Curiosity and alert mind in full swing. The forest, the fragrance of forest air is just over powering. The low hovering clouds.
How the nature protects itself in her artistic way is quite amusing.
Then that beautiful waterfall just after the bridge comes.
Needless to say, the temptation is too strong to go into the water. It’s just by the roadside. It started to drizzle and rain on and off.
The river Madhuganga accompanies most of the trek. Thick forest. Not scary though alone. No one near sight.
Reached Gounder by 10:30. I know the Bihar couple would overtake me any moment now. Had roti and tea then the morning dose of medicines. As I come out of that little tea shop that friendly voice…. Anand Vyas and his wife in full rain gear wave me.
My shoes already drenched. We trek together may be for ten mins or so and they catchup their tempo and said lets meet at Kun Chatti. Ah, that suits me, letting me by myself.
Snow peaks, mountains, forest, Madhuganga, low clouds and above all that much awaited solitude. What more else one could ask for.
But trust me, the gradient of the route is never below sixty degrees it’s above only. Very very slow I became. Yet, no one overtook me so far excepting those Bhopal couple.
That lonely trek route. See the gradient. Well paved, no chance of getting lost.
No one around. Is it so nice or is it scary now? No, it’s nice. Scary is to follow.
No signal on the phone. Only reliance works here I suppose. Good that the phone silent now. Just enjoying. A group of four or so from West Bengal overtake me.
Curious to note that not even ponies. All ponies went to Kedar! Rarely a lone pony carrying some provisions would overtake or go down.
By the time I reach Naan it’s nearly three. Few trekkers were there and our Vyas couple too. They were fasting for its Monday and doing this trek. Great. They said they go ahead to Kun Chatti and look for accommodation for us. Good idea. Anyway I am a slow trekker. Had noodle and a tea for lunch. Here people were talking about some porter charging Rs.14,000 to carry a sick boy down and the family abandons the trek. Pity.
The evening chillness setting in. Wet clothes. No matter which rain coat, sure enough the water seeps in through seams in those constant windy drizzle.
Soon, it was evening and getting dark. The gradient was so tiring. Few trekkers overtook me. Mostly here I found people are from West Bengal.
From that bugyal the path enters into the forest. I don’t know how much time it would take me to reach Kun Chatti but I have to reach. Because, as my phone is not having signal, my wife or daughter would call Anand and if I don’t meet them by night, what reply they would give to my wife of daughter? Everyone would be tensed. So, I must continue the trek in that darkness though the forest and in that storm, come what might.
In the meantime rain changed into storm. Bit scary now as the day light nearly faded, only that last bit of twilight remained.
I neither heard nor read of any wild life encounters in this part of the jungles. No, need for a lion or tiger here, just a fox would be enough to scare this lonely tired whacked out trekker. Just put my head down trudged along. As I was getting accustomed to the dark surroundings suddenly I felt the presence of two men so close to me. May be I haven’t noticed them because I was walking head down. They looked some forest officials. Asked them how far to reach this mysterious Kun Chatti, they said close, just 10 mins. Well that 10 mins for them would be 30 mins for me.
Like a haunted ghost house, from the far away, I could see the silhouette of a roadside construction, smoke looming above in that darkness. Definitely that could be Kun Chatti. Dragged my feet up and instantly that friendly voice of Vyas. I must have looked like an ET or Shackleton returning after he was stuck the entire winter on that ship wreck at South Pole.
The family and the owner of that little place crammed in that little kitchen around the chullah the only source of much needed heat.
All of us trying to grab the heat.
The owner of the place was so hospitable. Hot roti and sabji served. My toes were near numb with cold and wet, bade good night to them, gulped some water with tablets and just for the sake of decency I managed to remove my shoe and huddled myself in those quilts. Didn’t move an inch till the morning.
Tilak Francis
Well-Known Member
Nice Pic
Beautiful pictures of the forest glades makes one feel the freshness of the mountain air sweeping across the pine woods.
Yes Tilak, it was a blissful trek though a tough gradient. Bit scary too when passing through the thick jungle especially after the dark. But it's an adventure by itself. All the trouble is paid off which will be narrated in the next day's trip.
sayshh
Active Member
Excellent narration of your experiences with pictures. Hats off to your perseverance in continuing with the trek/journey despite not being at your fittest self.
Bholenath ji always rewards those who overcome troubles to seek his blessings.
Thank you.
To be frank, everyone of us blessed with different great qualities from which we learn to make our life more bearable.
When I see people trek as pilgrimage without even plastic chappals, just a bundle of clothes over their head, just a stick as their trek pole, much much older to me, I really am humbled by their praanic power. Just amazing. I even saw the pictures of some sadhus with just one kamandal for water, trekking barefooted in upper Mustang to reach Kedar Kunda in Nepal.
Trust me, all these make us forget our egos and feel the bliss of life. No matter which place we are talking about.
Reward of Bholenath ji, undoubtedly, is much much more than I asked for or deserve. I am convinced of that.
By the way, do comfort, convenience and travel, adventure go together?