Day 16: Helang – Badrinath 29.05.2022 (Saturday)
As usual got up early, wash, bath and start the ride. Once again back on the heavy traffic road. My log book says the time was 7:50 am.
I know I am approaching Joshimath. The habitation, the busy roads, military and so on. I could see the deviation to the right which was my original plan to take this road to take a bath in the river Rishi Ganga which should be around 25 to 30 kms. Sitting at the comfort of living room, now, I realise I should have done it. Take a bath in this river before Badrinarayan darshan. Anyway, it was not so.
By 9 am at Joshimath.
That’s the proper name. Jyothirmath which makes some sense. Evolution?
Wanted to visit the Aadi Shankaracharya Mutth.
About ten mins walk from the main road takes you there.
Well maintained place. That door on the right takes you to the meditation hall. Noticed some people in saffron attire and contrastingly busy with their mobile phones. What these people would be doing here, trying to get some gnaan.. is this the trust what Aadi Shankarachaarya kept in us… so many questions.. anyway, now it’s not my business.
Kalpa vruksha in the premises. Nice big tree.. Kalpa Vruksha is said to be granting boons whatever we ask. I simply silently said Om Namah Shivaaya.
Unfortunately I couldn’t touch it for it was fenced strongly.
Had breakfast and started the journey. All the way down with plenty of speed breakers and settlements till down the river Alaknanda. Once crossing the bridge, the toughest roads start nearly all the way to Badrinath. Road widening work, landslides and what not. Dusty, mad rush.
Govindghat by 10:30am. Don’t be misled by the roads in the picture, it was just a small stretch of good road where I could take a pit stop and a take picture.
From here the right deviation starts to Humkundsahib and VOF.
The other side. Notice the traffic on the road. Did you notice that small plywood piece under the bike’s side stand that I made in Rishikesh? That little fellow saved my life many a times. Trust me.
So dusty the roads are and those katabatic winds on those curves of the roads would just push you out of balance. But by now I could fairly anticipate and learned how to counter balance them but this fine dust was really bothering me by now. Remember, I am driving on a helmet without visor! I might have eaten half a kg of that dust by the end of the trip.
By 12 at Badrinath. The weather was good but dusty and mad rush. Just the mad rush for parking. Looks like the parking continued till Mana!
Hunt for the stay begins. Everyone refuses this single soul.
There are so many ashrams. But don’t ever be in the opinion that they are for service as the name suggests or something like that. It happened even in Haridwar. These are business centres to make money unquestionably. The rates per night is anything above Rs.5,000. Inspite of that rate, the accommodation is not available.
What’s happening to this mad rush of people. Anyway. How those visibly less prosperous people with rubber slippers and just one bundle of something on their heads and a simple walking stick would find a stay at night is a mystery which I haven’t mastered yet. Obviously not on road in that super chilly weather.
Finally, a kind watchman of one of these ashrams suggested me to try the GMVN Yatri Nivas bunker beds. He said that he also lives in one of those bunkers.
Bunker beds. Nice, clean spacious utility and nearly empty. Rs.400 per night. Quite reasonable in that situation. Just dumped everything and headed for darshan after lunch. It was a bright day with nearly clear sky.
Jai Badrivishal.
Obviously so much crowd. Had to find the end of the queue to join the queue. But where is it… kept going going and going.. Reaching the end of the queue itself might have taken a good 20 minutes.
I might as well go far enough to reach Satopanth which I am aware that this is the path to take to reach Satopanth. I could nearly see Mana village on the other side.
Finally joined the queue and the time was 1:15 in the afternoon.
More and more people join and the queue ever gets longer and longer. Would they close the gate by the time my turn comes? Anyway all is His kripa. Surprisingly none in the queue seem to be under any sort of tension or nervous; happily talking, joking, narrating their experiences and there were some, as mentioned earlier, not so prosperous, started doing bhajans clapping. Everyone joins. We forgot the apprehensive queue and I myself indulged in chanting Vishnu Sahasranaama blissfully ignorant of what to come.
The brewing storm which would come down any moment. The evening anabatic winds started to make it even colder. Cold cold cold…my toes are never going to get warm unless I go down.
Soon it started to drizzle. The shed was nowhere in the sight. Everyone just managed to cover their heads with whatever they could. I didn’t carry my raincoat for weather seemed to be good, a mistake. Just stood like that in the rain freezing. The dust cover of my backpack was just enough for the bag and the phone. So let it be like that. Sahasranamas go even more fervently. Curiously even amidst all those odds, there was certain tranquility, bliss, no agitation felt in His adobe. This proves once again that no tangible goods or comfort or, discomfort to that matter is responsible for our happiness or unhappiness.
Once you reach this state of mind, quite oblivious to the surroundings, the adversities recede.
The weather clears and one can notice the crowd or notice the happy faces? The choice is yours.
The Neelkanth at the far. Just cross another mountain, reach Satopanth, Swargarohini. Would I be able to see them in this life is a question.
It was 5:20pm which means we all endured those strong cold winds and heavy drizzle, completely wet including inner garments socks and what not for nearly three hours just like that in that weather! Yes, it was because the standpoint that we take in life is pivotal for our own mental wellbeing.
Finally the shelter in sight. Not that it really matters now.
The Alaknanda, Badrivishal far away, Brahmakapal, and more interestingly, the happy faces. Happiness is just infectious as bad temper.
The road the other side of the river takes to Mana village which is about 3 kms. Just a little ahead I know the road winds up to right to Ghastoli and the trek route to Gangotri. My heart sinks once again. The Himalayas have too much to offer and we are too busy to accept.
The mystique Hiamalays teach us, humble us as I said earlier. Teach what? Once in adversities, don’t complain, just become part of the adversity and you don’t feel the pain any more for you yourself is the pain. It’s painful if the pain is a separate entity but once the adversity and you are one and the same, one would become blissfully ignorant of all adversities and the life becomes more bearable.
What those buildings could be? May be some money making spots with fancy names like river view, temple view, neelkanth view, even worse, some aashram where they charge exorbitant price for stay. Anyway, better see some positive things around.
Finally under the roof and close to temple yet a long way to go. Fully drenched.
Soon lucky to find that I am going to have darshan. So much crowd. No one wears mask. Corona? What’s that again?
In that crowd, no need to do anything, just stand still, the crowd will pushes you forward anyway. Had darshan. Some people sitting in the hall just before the deity, must be doing some special Pooja, paying may be more money. Nevertheless His blessings are same on everyone.
By the time I come out of the temple it was 8:15pm. So its seven hours that I spent in that long queue without realizing it.
Night view of the temple. So much crowd, everyone joyfully talking in loud voice, but the noise was too much to bear.
So many eateries on those narrow crowded streets. Had some kachori and milk for dinner, happily retired to my bunker bed and that eventful day comes to an end.
As usual got up early, wash, bath and start the ride. Once again back on the heavy traffic road. My log book says the time was 7:50 am.
I know I am approaching Joshimath. The habitation, the busy roads, military and so on. I could see the deviation to the right which was my original plan to take this road to take a bath in the river Rishi Ganga which should be around 25 to 30 kms. Sitting at the comfort of living room, now, I realise I should have done it. Take a bath in this river before Badrinarayan darshan. Anyway, it was not so.
By 9 am at Joshimath.
That’s the proper name. Jyothirmath which makes some sense. Evolution?
Wanted to visit the Aadi Shankaracharya Mutth.
About ten mins walk from the main road takes you there.
Well maintained place. That door on the right takes you to the meditation hall. Noticed some people in saffron attire and contrastingly busy with their mobile phones. What these people would be doing here, trying to get some gnaan.. is this the trust what Aadi Shankarachaarya kept in us… so many questions.. anyway, now it’s not my business.
Kalpa vruksha in the premises. Nice big tree.. Kalpa Vruksha is said to be granting boons whatever we ask. I simply silently said Om Namah Shivaaya.
Unfortunately I couldn’t touch it for it was fenced strongly.
Had breakfast and started the journey. All the way down with plenty of speed breakers and settlements till down the river Alaknanda. Once crossing the bridge, the toughest roads start nearly all the way to Badrinath. Road widening work, landslides and what not. Dusty, mad rush.
Govindghat by 10:30am. Don’t be misled by the roads in the picture, it was just a small stretch of good road where I could take a pit stop and a take picture.
From here the right deviation starts to Humkundsahib and VOF.
The other side. Notice the traffic on the road. Did you notice that small plywood piece under the bike’s side stand that I made in Rishikesh? That little fellow saved my life many a times. Trust me.
So dusty the roads are and those katabatic winds on those curves of the roads would just push you out of balance. But by now I could fairly anticipate and learned how to counter balance them but this fine dust was really bothering me by now. Remember, I am driving on a helmet without visor! I might have eaten half a kg of that dust by the end of the trip.
By 12 at Badrinath. The weather was good but dusty and mad rush. Just the mad rush for parking. Looks like the parking continued till Mana!
Hunt for the stay begins. Everyone refuses this single soul.
There are so many ashrams. But don’t ever be in the opinion that they are for service as the name suggests or something like that. It happened even in Haridwar. These are business centres to make money unquestionably. The rates per night is anything above Rs.5,000. Inspite of that rate, the accommodation is not available.
What’s happening to this mad rush of people. Anyway. How those visibly less prosperous people with rubber slippers and just one bundle of something on their heads and a simple walking stick would find a stay at night is a mystery which I haven’t mastered yet. Obviously not on road in that super chilly weather.
Finally, a kind watchman of one of these ashrams suggested me to try the GMVN Yatri Nivas bunker beds. He said that he also lives in one of those bunkers.
Bunker beds. Nice, clean spacious utility and nearly empty. Rs.400 per night. Quite reasonable in that situation. Just dumped everything and headed for darshan after lunch. It was a bright day with nearly clear sky.
Jai Badrivishal.
Obviously so much crowd. Had to find the end of the queue to join the queue. But where is it… kept going going and going.. Reaching the end of the queue itself might have taken a good 20 minutes.
I might as well go far enough to reach Satopanth which I am aware that this is the path to take to reach Satopanth. I could nearly see Mana village on the other side.
Finally joined the queue and the time was 1:15 in the afternoon.
More and more people join and the queue ever gets longer and longer. Would they close the gate by the time my turn comes? Anyway all is His kripa. Surprisingly none in the queue seem to be under any sort of tension or nervous; happily talking, joking, narrating their experiences and there were some, as mentioned earlier, not so prosperous, started doing bhajans clapping. Everyone joins. We forgot the apprehensive queue and I myself indulged in chanting Vishnu Sahasranaama blissfully ignorant of what to come.
The brewing storm which would come down any moment. The evening anabatic winds started to make it even colder. Cold cold cold…my toes are never going to get warm unless I go down.
Soon it started to drizzle. The shed was nowhere in the sight. Everyone just managed to cover their heads with whatever they could. I didn’t carry my raincoat for weather seemed to be good, a mistake. Just stood like that in the rain freezing. The dust cover of my backpack was just enough for the bag and the phone. So let it be like that. Sahasranamas go even more fervently. Curiously even amidst all those odds, there was certain tranquility, bliss, no agitation felt in His adobe. This proves once again that no tangible goods or comfort or, discomfort to that matter is responsible for our happiness or unhappiness.
Once you reach this state of mind, quite oblivious to the surroundings, the adversities recede.
The weather clears and one can notice the crowd or notice the happy faces? The choice is yours.
The Neelkanth at the far. Just cross another mountain, reach Satopanth, Swargarohini. Would I be able to see them in this life is a question.
It was 5:20pm which means we all endured those strong cold winds and heavy drizzle, completely wet including inner garments socks and what not for nearly three hours just like that in that weather! Yes, it was because the standpoint that we take in life is pivotal for our own mental wellbeing.
Finally the shelter in sight. Not that it really matters now.
The Alaknanda, Badrivishal far away, Brahmakapal, and more interestingly, the happy faces. Happiness is just infectious as bad temper.
The road the other side of the river takes to Mana village which is about 3 kms. Just a little ahead I know the road winds up to right to Ghastoli and the trek route to Gangotri. My heart sinks once again. The Himalayas have too much to offer and we are too busy to accept.
The mystique Hiamalays teach us, humble us as I said earlier. Teach what? Once in adversities, don’t complain, just become part of the adversity and you don’t feel the pain any more for you yourself is the pain. It’s painful if the pain is a separate entity but once the adversity and you are one and the same, one would become blissfully ignorant of all adversities and the life becomes more bearable.
What those buildings could be? May be some money making spots with fancy names like river view, temple view, neelkanth view, even worse, some aashram where they charge exorbitant price for stay. Anyway, better see some positive things around.
Finally under the roof and close to temple yet a long way to go. Fully drenched.
Soon lucky to find that I am going to have darshan. So much crowd. No one wears mask. Corona? What’s that again?
In that crowd, no need to do anything, just stand still, the crowd will pushes you forward anyway. Had darshan. Some people sitting in the hall just before the deity, must be doing some special Pooja, paying may be more money. Nevertheless His blessings are same on everyone.
By the time I come out of the temple it was 8:15pm. So its seven hours that I spent in that long queue without realizing it.
Night view of the temple. So much crowd, everyone joyfully talking in loud voice, but the noise was too much to bear.
So many eateries on those narrow crowded streets. Had some kachori and milk for dinner, happily retired to my bunker bed and that eventful day comes to an end.
