Nepal | Nov'19 | Motorcycle Trip


Pirates Skulls and Bones
Good that you have shared these details. I would suggest make few changes to your plan to make it less time consuming and so that all the family members enjoy together.

1) Manokamana is exactly between KTM & Pokhara. Thus there is no reason for someone to stay in Pokhara and then visit Manokamana. I would suggest the following :.........

Local alcohol : Apple wine @ Marpha. Must try!!!
Ruslan is a mild vodka, you would not get hangover.
AMS is real and it may not always lead to a hangover like situation. AMS can lead to irritated behavior for no reason. If all of you get this, then none of you would know what is happening :) while all of you have heated discussions. My cousin got it and I recognized. So I avoided getting into an argument with him for 2 days :) Have ample water and stomach always full to avoid AMS as much possible. Practically speaking medicine can only do so much.

NCell connection is bad on most patches. So take the other one, I guess its called NCET. BTW connection is available only in towns. For most part of the routes, it wont work. It will work in Muktinath.
Very good advice, I will take that into consideration. I do not have much idea about Nepal, only what I have read. I was thinking that once I will reach there, I will ask from the locals but the plan that you have suggested is quite good. Thanks.

Yes, the pains that you have taken are worth it. Great voyage.

I have heard about the wine too :) How much does it costs?

I have thought of doing Pokhra - Muktinath - Pokhra in two days.

I think that even if I stop somewhere like in between Pokhra and Jomsom the first day, I can go to Muktinath and then come back to Pokhra the next day. Of course it will get dark but then while returning, we will have better roads after Beni.
Day 5 :

Plan : Lete to Pokhara
Actual : Lete to Muktinath & back to Beni
Total distance covered : 154Kms over a 10 hr ride time.

We knew today is going to be a long and tiring day given that we have to visit Muktinath, spend some time there, then Marpha and thereafter on our way back towards Pokhara, as much possible. Woke up @ 6:30 sharp, spent some time appreciating the view from our Hotel and then started our ride. The kid was right, the view of Mt Dhaulagiri from the hotel was breathtaking !!! Mt Nilgiri was equally competitive.
People in Lete wake up slightly late so by the time we left, the roads were empty, shops closed, dogs taking a nap and the weather was killing us.

A view of Mt Dhaulagiri range from our window. The kid was right.


Mt. Nilgiri.


The one on extreme right is Mt. Dhaulagiri.


And the roads aren't getting any better.



This actually is the road as well as the river bed. Before Jomsom.




Naurikot : First break for the day, a cup of tea and few clicks.
The good thing about starting early in the morning is you get a completely different view of the ranges which isn't possible when the Sun is bright/shrill and above your head. At this hour the golden rays on snowy mountains were just worth a watch!!


Apparently this used to be a glacier. Now it is just a barren glacial bed. This is right before Jomsom.


Jomsom Airport.

Once we crossed Jomsom, the roads were pretty good and wide, though the entire stretch was full of gravel. With FZ25, a pillion and 20 kgs of luggage that was an issue.
5 kms after Jomsom, we came across the Nepali riders we met during road blockage a day before. They stayed at Jomsom for the night. And as expected hotels in Jomsom were expensive as a result of road blockage and 100s of visitors flocking for the night stay.



Few more kms and the slog of all these days had started to make sense. The views were beyond imagination and a big smile on our face. Thanked God !
12kms from Jomsom you would reach Kagbeni. From Kagbeni there are two routes, one that leads to Upper Mustang valley and anther leading to Muktinath. From Kagbeni it is 16km to the Temple and the road is tarred super fine. For last 2 days the roads forced us to ride at max 10 km/hr, whereas now the spectacular views would force you to drive slow.


3 kms from Kagbeni towards Muktinath you reach a point named Selfie point. One cannot avoid but spend 15 mins here capturing a 360 degree view of the amazing landscape. I have toured pretty much every possible place in India and I think there aren't many places in India, which can compete against this. The place alone can be a reason to visit Muktinath, it is that good !!!





First glimpse of Muktinath Temple.







Inspite of freezing weather, I was surprised to see people taking dip in the 'kund' that too after taking a shower in these fountains.






Muktinath is a unique place in its own way. Its not just a Hindu temple, but has a Buddhist Monastery too in the same campus !!




The place is so mesmerizing that one can easily forget time. We did. It was 1 pm and we had to leave. We had skipped our breakfast and only now we realized it. The Nepali riders suggested we have lunch together @ Jomsom, why not...chalo.

Peculiar geographic formation as viewed from the restaurant, during lunch.

After lunch, we headed towards Marpha. After going through Masterji's posts for all the years, I have been dreaming of Marpha. Not sure why, but I had immense urge to visit this place and here the dream was about to turn to reality. Hurrayyyyyyy :)


Gate to Marpha Kingdom. It is a small village / kingdom, but certainly very beautiful.









Can you guess what are those white bands around their neck. I asked the lady sitting beside and she said to wipe their running nose hahahahhahah :) So cute :) Marpha was highly impressive. must visit.
We purchased sun dried apple chips which were just about ok. Marpha has several apple farms and is know for its high quality products.


Given that we were late and there is a road block waiting for us after Lete, we left for.....well as much we can. But the delay did not stop us from taking detours and photo stops :)
This is somewhere around Kowang Valley.

Last pic for the day, before we got into the road block for 3 hours. And reached Beni by 8:30 pm.

Day 6: By tomorrow.
Plan : Beni to Manokamana
Honestly after seeing those majestic mountains in Lower Mustang, now everything else appeared inferior ..... pokhara lake..... manokamana.....the same hanging bridges we saw which excited us a day before.

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nice pics and log....waiting for more
Thank you!!!

I have thought of doing Pokhra - Muktinath - Pokhra in two days.

I think that even if I stop somewhere like in between Pokhra and Jomsom the first day, I can go to Muktinath and then come back to Pokhra the next day. Of course it will get dark but then while returning, we will have better roads after Beni.
Pokhara - Muktinath - Pokhara can be done in 2 days, provided you ride for very long hours on both the days. problem will be on 2nd day.
Day 1 you would be able to reach maximum Lete. If you want to comeback to Pokhara the next day, you would have to drive for 11 hours (only drive time) + road block + Muktinath darshan + stops and breaks. Besides you would be riding on Kaskikot road during night, thereby missing the majestic views from the hill tops. I wouldn't have hurried.
If the roads are repaired by Feb'20, then I guess it is very much doable.


Pirates Skulls and Bones
Wow, such raw nature. You purchased any wine from Marpha?

Maybe I can get back to Beni the next day and halt there if body doesn't permits to go back to Pokhra.


Well-Known Member
What a beautiful trip... did you book your pit stops in advance?
I have travelled extensively in Nepal around 10 years ago. Itching to go back now...

Did you take any offline maps with you?
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What a beautiful trip... did you book your pit stops in advance?
I have travelled extensively in Nepal around 10 years ago. Itching to go back now...

Did you take any offline maps with you?
Thanks buddy!
No bookings were made. Neither did we carry any offline map. But I do think, for Mustang valley, if someone rides at night an offline map becomes crucial. Get one from KTM (~NPR 200 for a small map in Thamel); for Mustang the ones for trek are no different from the ones for motorcycle ride.

And yes, scratch the itch quickly. Most of the roads in Nepal are being tarred. Very soon, the old school charm would be lost.