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Day 5

Bhaderwah to Kishtwar

Total 151 Kms

Ride time 8.45 AM to 4 PM

Today my plan was to visit Jai Valley and then ride to Kishtwar. It was a short ride and hence I was not in hurry to start early.
The backyard of Hotel Ashapati View had lots of Apple Trees. Owner was kind enough to allow me to pluck fresh apples from trees.

There were lots of apples fallen from trees and damaging. I learned that apples are sold at Rs.20 a kg at Bhaderwah.

I washed my bike and loaded luggage.

I also clicked picture with owner of hotel and his son for memory.

I had breakfast of crispy alu paratha there. It was made by owner’s wife, specially for me.

I started for
Jai Valley at 8.45 AM. There was some hill road and from there I could get good view of Bhaderwah Town.

There was a view point for tourist also.

Riding ahead, the road was single lane but there were lots of pine trees.

At around 9.30 am, I entered Chinta Valley.

This was view of Chinta Valley.

At 10.15 AM, I reached
Jai Valley.
Jai Valley, the Everlasting Green Valley lies on the North East of Bhaderwah town about 32 Kms. away connected to the town by beautiful Bhaderwah-Jai Link Road

It was a tourist spot, but I could found only grazing horses.

There was a sign board of Jai Valley/ Ghati also.

It was a green valley with 3-4 houses.

Jai Valley is a beautiful place with water stream and lots of greenery.

Due to disturbances and restrictions in J&K, there were NO tourists at Jai Valley at that time.

Valley was looking like a movie set with mountains, temple & few houses.

Jai Valley is a picturesque valley, located at a distance of 32 kilometers from Bhaderwah
The valley is divided into two by the Jai Nallah.

The valley is surrounded by coniferous forests on all sides.

Here are some pictures near Jai Nallah Bridge…

There was a tourist restaurant, but it was closed.

The sprawling green meadows are a breathtaking sight.

There were well designed Igloo Huts also.

At 11 am, I started for Doda. On the way I saw many apple trees and flowers near Chinta Valley.

At 11.50 am, I reached near Monda, where I was on state highway of Bhaderwah to Doda. There was very good road now onward till Kishtwar.

At 12.30 pm I reached Doda. This was famous Pul Doda.

River Chenab is flowing here with full flow.

I was told at Bhaderwah that
Chenab View Hotel & Family Restaurant at Pul Doda serves good food. They have rooms for stay also for Rs.500. It is recommended to stay here instead of Doda as you get good view of Chenab River.

I used mobile of Kitchen staff to call my family and give my whereabouts.
This was my lunch at Chenab View Hotel.

I started for Kishtwar at 1.30 PM. The road was very good with River Chenab on my left side.

I took a break at 1.50PM and Kishtwar was another 44 kms ahead.

River Chenab was flowing on my left with lots of pleasant sound.

Riding further ahead I came across this section.

I could not understand this road sign.

Can anyone reply what this sign is for?

I stopped again at 2.20 PM to enjoy this beautiful stretch of road.

I must say that Doda Kishtwar road is very scenic with mountains and good views of Chenab River.

There were houses on opposite site of road also. People must be crossing River Chenab somewhere to reach other side.

I stopped again at 2.40pm. There was a big waterfall on other side.

View of road ahead of me.

View of road behind me.

After riding ahead, I saw a hanging bridge on River Chenab.

People staying uphill must be using this. I met two villagers from that upside village. They told me that it will take two hours to reach there from main road. Mountain people take so much trouble, just to reach their home.

I reached Kishtwar at 4PM. I checked in at
Hotel Snow Valley for Rs.500 rent. All room here have small balcony.

I uploaded my luggage at room. I was happy to get a pure veg hotel.

Here also the owner was very nice and helpful. I used his mobile to inform my family about my stay at Kishtwar. I talked with owner to get idea of town and places of interest there. I also got idea about SINTHAN PASS TOP and its road condition from him.

At 4.30PM, I went to Kishtwar Chowgan Ground.

It is a relaxing place for residents of Kishtwar.

Surrounded by hills, it’s a lush green ground.

Not only people of town, but horses, donkeys and cows were present there.

After that I visited
Gouri Shankar Temple of Kishtwar. Army was present at both Temple Gate & Chowgan Ground gates to verify my identity.

This is recently renovated temple with beautiful statues of Gods.

Then I top up my petrol and again came back to Kishtwar Chowgan Ground to relax. There was no internet working for ongoing restrictions for Article 370. So many people were on present at ground to enjoy evening, including me.
This time I went to other side of ground. I enjoyed sun, grazing animals and scenic view with fresh cool air.

A dog was also relaxing nearby.

I went near bus stand area to see the town. I found a boy making tasty snacks. This was snacks cum dinner as I had two plates of Chole Alu Tikia.

I went to sleep early as next day I wanted to start early.

This was ride map for the day.

Coming up….. next…. Sinthan PassTop and an unlucky mishap.

HERE for next update.
Excellent Travelogue sir...... Seems like we are walking with you........Excellent CLicks too.....


Still Learning ©
Day 7 –
Kishtwar - CliffHanger- Killar
Total 116 Kms

Ride time 6 AM to 6 PM.

I had planned my ride in such way that I will cross J&K before Moharram, which is on 10Th September, 2019.
Today was very important for me. I will be crossing Cliff Hanger Road today. I had learned that this cliffhanger road might be closed in 2020. So it might not be there to ride in future.
I was ready to ride at 6 AM.

The morning was cold and calm. This is Chenab River.

At 6.30 AM, I was near
Dul Hasti Dam.

Morning Sun rays were creating dramatic shadows on Chenab River and mountains nearby.

Now the road was full of dust. Good road was there from Kishtwar till here.

At 7.50 AM, I stopped for a break. Since it was morning time, all the shops near main road were closed. And a water stream was also flowing on road.

And I a saw a big mountain on opposite side of road and it was cut to make road.
A car was moving on that rock cut road.

Zoom and find the white car.

There was a big unprotected ditch on one side of that road.
This was a trailer of things to come ahead. Now the real game will start.

Looking at Google Maps, I found above cliff area is
BHAGNA. This is Google Location.....
Google Maps


At 8.15am, I stopped again near a small bridge. The road was now good one.

The sign board reads “welcome to Paddar, Kishtwar Forest Division.”

View of Chenab River from there.

That’s me

Now the road was side by side of Chenab River. In many places rocks were cut to make road, which were looking nice.


There was a bridge to cross Chenab River for villagers living opposite side.

Again the bad road started.

There was a small waterfall on road also.

Then came the Army check post, where my details were noted. My id card was also checked. There was an officer there who was also from Odisha. I talked to him in Odiya language and he was happy to listen it.
He told me that road beyond Gulabgarh, Padder was closed some days back as a bridge is washed off in a cloud burst. But as it is more that 15 days passed, it might be open by now. He wished me good luck.

Moving ahead few more rock cut roads were there.

Now again good road with rock cut mountains

Again came bad road with some traffic of different kind.

And this patch of bad road continued till Gulabgarh, Padder.
At 9.25am, I stopped at Karthaie. I saw
Gupta Tent house. Biscuits, cold drinks and snacks were available here. He told me that he can make hot Maggie for my breakfast.

My Maggie breakfast.

At 9.45 AM, I was crossing a place called
TataPani. There is a hot water spring here on mountain right side.

I could see greenery around and some snow capped mountains on far.

This road on right goes to Atholi Mata Temple of Gulabgarh.

This Gulabgarh, Padder and Karthaie, TataPani area is also famous for Blue Sapphire stones. There are mines of
Blue Sapphire stone here. Its deep blue color with velvety touch resembles to the neck of Peacock, which provides the only discernible characteristic of the stone from rest of the world.
But I had no time for Sapphire stones, but for stones of cliff hanger roads.

And then came Padder Bridge.

Just after crossing bridge you arrive at
Gulabgarh., Padder. There is a Police check post just after bridge. They noted my details and told me that the washed out bridge ahead can be crossed by bike, as the new bridge is about to be completed. I was happy to hear that.

Gulabgarh is important place for Machail Mata Yatra. There is a trek route for this yatra for 32 kms. Soon there will be road till Machail Mata Temple. Now it is partly completed.

I need to take road to the right from Gulabgarh. This was view of Gulabgarh from that road.

Now I was riding to the left of Chenab River and road was much above the river. And the road was newly tarred.

There was a waterfall on road also.

The road I rode.

My next destination was Tiyari Village and then
The road ahead was showing me the things to come ahead. This rock cut road was looking different. Can you find my bike in this picture?

That’s my bike.

View ahead.

View behind.

And a selfie.

Moving ahead, I saw this green village at 10.45 AM.
It was
Sohal Village. There is a famous Kali Mata Mandir here.

Just after crossing Sohal village there was a big water stream with loud sound.
This was Kaban Nallah.

But the bridge here was not damaged. I felt little relaxed.

This was Kaban Nallah.

A selfie there.


I felt relaxed listening to the sound of water at Kaban Nallah.

There was a painted detail on rock nearby.

Moving ahead, the road continued to be good and sun light was also good.

At 11.10AM, I took another break at rock cut road.

The road behind.

And that’s the road ahead of me. You can mark two vehicles parked ahead. It is because they cannot go ahead.

At 11.15 AM, came Ungtar Nallah or Urai Nallah.

The road was now going down and I could see this from above.

So this was that washed out bridge due to cloud burst.

Now lots of thought came to my mind, will I be able to cross this ? If not then what will I do ? Do I have to ride back again to Kishtwar ? etc etc.
I just remembered God and decided to move ahead.

This was road from where I came.

I went down a little and parked my bike. I decided to see whole area first.

I walked down to access the position. It was not looking ok.

This was under construction bridge. Both end roads were not joined to bridge. My bike needs to climb this first.

And after crossing bridge, I need to cross this also.

And lastly this tough descend need to be crossed.

I need to reach here then.

Though the bulldozer was filling up descend on other side. But the gap was big one.
I understood that descend from bridge will be very difficult.

The bridge was about to be completed as coloring was also going on with tightening of bolts. I talked to the workers there and requested them to help me cross this bridge.

This was water stream of Ungtar Urai Nallah.

The workers told me to talk to Head Engineer for that. I went and talked to the concern person. I narrated him that if they will not help me then I will have to ride back again to Kishtwar, Bhaderwah , Sach Pass and then reach Killar. It will take 3 days.
The Head Engineer was a very kind and helpful man.
He told his workers to help me cross the bridge. They arranged big wooden logs and placed them on start of bridge.

Now coming down till bridge was also tricky part. I planned a rough route to come down on bike till bridge.

My bike was 145 kgs plus luggage must be another 25 kgs.
Total 5-6 workers took charge and pulled up bike at the start of bridge using wooden logs.
Then it was more difficult to get down from bridge as the gap was big. But using wooden logs and rearranging stones and soil they somehow crossed my bike.
It took around 15 minutes to cross.
This is my bike after crossing bridge.

This was most difficult part.

I requested all the helpful men to pose with me as memory. The person on my right with white Jacket is Head Engineer.

This part was toughest to cross with 170 kgs weight.


Then I offered some money to those construction workers for their help. But all of them refused and said this is a help from J&K people to people of Odisha.
But I paid them forcefully and told them to buy chocolates for their children.
This was second example of Gem like people of Jammu & Kashmir. God Bless them. They have saved three important days of my ride.

At 12 pm, I was read to leave towards Tyari and have my lunch.

Entire thing took 45 minutes.
This was the road I crossed before Tyari Village.

I took a break at 12.15 pm below a rock cut road. This was view behind me

Rock cut road.

There was a temple ahead before Tyari Village. It was
Mata Chitoo Wali Temple.

Some flowers near temple.

This was maa Chitto Wali Temple.

I prayed for blessings of Maa Chitto Wali and thanked her for providing divine help for crossing that Ungtar Urai Nallah Under Construction Bridge.
This was view from that Temple.

At 12.30 pm , I was at
Sharma Vaishno Hotel & Restaurant, Tyari for my lunch.

This was my lunch.

…Continued…… Click
HERE for Part 2
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In love with mountains
Great achievement.

Correct me if I'm wrong - that cliffhanger road didn't appear to be too scary, at least not the part you covered so far. In that case. why will it be closed for good?

And that road on the opposite side where a white car was plying - could you find out which road was that? These unknown roads are always very fascinating.