santanu
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Road Trip to Amazing Tawang
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santanu
Well-Known Member
Day 8 (5th May)
We were supposed to cover a long distance – from Dirang to Guwahati. So we got ready by 8 am. I took some random snaps before start from the rooftop of Hotel Snow Lion.
While planning for the trip, I read in a travelogue that there is a road from Dirang by which it is possible to reach directly to Rupa-Kalaktang-Balemu highway bypassing Bomdila. It meets the highway near Shergaon. I searched in Google Map and Google Map showed the direction. So we decided to take that route though we had no other information about this road.
After driving few kilo meters towards Bomdila from Dirang, we found the intended right turn. There we took a brief stop to pick up few bottles of water.
In the shop, the shop owner asked where we were going and we told him our plan. Knowing that we are driving the car ourselves he advised us not to take the road because there is no support system along that road and if some problem happens to the vehicle, we would not get any help. We did not pay any attention to his advice and stuck to our plan. Now we realized that we should have listened to him. We got stuck in a precarious situation and somehow managed to come out of that soup with the help of few unknown helpful strangers.
After the right turn, uphill drive started. From the milestones, we came to know we were heading towards Mandala Pass. We came to know about that Pass for the first time. Later, from Google I came to know that this Pass and surrounding area is famous for bird watching.
The approximate distance of the Pass from where we took right turn is about 20 km, though I cannot say it with complete certainty because I did not take any noting .
The road was narrow. But the surface was good. There was hardly any other vehicle plying on the road. We did not cross more than 2-3 vehicles coming from the opposite direction till we reached Mandala Pass. So drive was peaceful. Those vehicles were local passenger vehicles.
We were gaining height swiftly. The type of vegetation along the road was also changing rapidly.
After 60-75 minutes’ drive, we reached the roof of the hill. We understood that we have reached Mandala Pass. We decided to take a break. Though as per the milestones, we were still almost a km away from Pass. Till that time, we did not found any habitation or shop along the road. At couple of places, there were few hutments at the side of the road but it seemed that nobody had been living there for some time.
We stayed there for around 15 minutes . We did not see anyone.
After moving few hundred meters ahead, we came to a fork and Google Map advised us to take the left prong though the right prong was looking like the main road. The road condition worsened significantly after we took the turn. The road became narrower and it was not a proper 'pucca' road. At someplace, water was flowing over the road. At some places there was quite a deep slush. The road was through decently thick woods. We realized that we took more risk that what was called for. We also realized that the vehicles, which we crossed while coming to Mandala Pass, had come from the other prong. This road does not belong to normal routes and vehicles rarely ply on this road. We just kept on following Google Map.
After sometime, we saw a Monastery from a distance.
The road led to the Monastery. After reaching the monastery, we did not see anyone nearby. So we got down there just for taking some photos and then continued.
The road condition remained same.
After sometime, we encountered the first problem of the day with our Innova. It appeared that there is some issue with the clutch and Innova was not picking up speed. So we were forced to take a break for 10-15 minutes to let the car cool down. We had no idea about exactly where were we were. Vegetation at both sides of the road was quite thick. It was almost 11 am. Since we started quite early, we could not have proper breakfast. Everyone was feeling hungry. The situation was becoming worrisome.
After sometime, we came to a road, which we found much better in condition. However, we could not utilize the road condition because we were driving on 2nd gear. Though Innova was started behaving properly by that time, we did not want to take any risk. We did realize that if the car broke down there, we would not get any help.
Finally we got our meal around 12 noon, few kilometers before touching the Rupa-Kalaktang-Balemu highway. We heartily had spicy Thukpa and tea there. When you are hungry, you will find the taste of food good invariably. So did we. We started from there after taking a break of around 45 minutes.
After sometime, we touched Rupa-Klakatang-Balemu highway near Shergaon and took right turn towards Balemu. By that time we were bit relaxed. We had driven on this road only few days back. There was relatively higher vehicular movement on the road. We were just 90 minutes -2 hour away from the plain. And then the front wheel of the right side gave up.
Though I go for long drive regularly, I did not develop worthy expertise in changing car tyres. On top of that, I had never driven an Innova earlier. We were in bit trouble. At that time, a gentleman named Mr. Sang Chwang Khirmey, along with his wife and two kids, was crossing that place in his car. He got down from his car to help us out. Practically, he replaced the punctured tyre with the spare one with our limited assistance. I would like to profusely thank Mr. Khirmey for his kind help on that day. Mr. Khirmey is a Government employee and stays at Rupa.
We wasted around 45 minutes in this episode. After moving ahead a few kilo meters, we found a tyre repairing shop. We went there to repair the damaged tyre. The mechanic told that the punctured tyre is beyond repair. So we had to move on without any spare tyre. I was desperately hoping that Innova would not give any further trouble at least till we get down from the hills. But that was not the case to be.
When we were around 12-13 km away from Balemu, the front left wheel tyre also gave up and as told above, we did not have any spare.
There was no locality nearby. We were amidst hills and thick woods. It was around 4-4.30 pm then. Shadows of the hills have started growing taller and started enveloping the surroundings. There was no mobile connectivity.
At that point of time, like an Angel, a biker appeared. He was also going downhill. Hearing our plight, he offered to be pillion rider so as to get a mechanic/alternate vehicle from the plains.
His name is Sunil (sorry I did not ask his surname). He is from Bengaluru. He came for a bike expedition. I am not sure whether he is a member of this forum but I would like to use this opportunity to convey my sincere thanks to him. Without his help, we could not have managed to get out of that soup.
We came down to Balemu hoping that we would get some Tata Sumo or similar type of vehicle there. The idea was to park our Innova at the side of the road and to inform the rental agency as and when we get mobile connectivity while going to Guwahati by the to be found vehicle. But nothing was available at Balemu. People advised us to go to Bhairabkunda. We went to Bhairabkunda which was another 10-12 km away from Balemu. In between, we tried our luck at an army camp, at some houses with parked vehicle but nothing clicked.
While Balemu is in Arunachal Pradesh, Bhairabkunda is in Assam. Basically, this area is meeting point of borders of Assam, Arunachal Pradesh and Bhutan. Few people asked us whether we were coming from Bhutan.
When we went to Bhaiabkunda market, no Sumo or similar type of vehicle was available. All vehicles there were essentially passenger vehicles and were plying on designated local routes. Nobody could tell when those vehicles will be back at the market, leave aside whether they would agree to go to Guwahati. By that time almost one hour has passed since I left our vehicle and other members. It was getting darker. I was not being able to speak with them, as there was no mobile connectivity at the place where our vehicle was stuck. Neither I could speak to the rental agency as Balemu and Bhairabkunda too were outside of coverage of any network other than BSNL. It was a hopeless and frustrating situation. Sunil was also getting late. But he decided not to leave me until and unless some solution got worked out.
We realized that instead of searching for a vehicle for Guwahati, we should first ensure bringing down the other members and luggage tso that all of us could be together. We saw a Tata Magic standing there. The driver was a young lad. We told him our problem. He agreed to come along with me. Sunil resumed his journey.
After getting into the vehicle, I became bit skeptical whether all of us will fit in this vehicle. The driver assured me. Anyway, I had no other choice at that point of time.
Tata Magic had its own limitation. It was not equipped for steep climb. So we had to stop a couple of times to let the engine cool off. Finally, when I reached the place where the Innova was parked. It was almost dark. Everyone was inside the Innova keeping the door locked and parking light on. After seeing me, the way they celebrated that was not less joyous than the celebration of French football team after winning the FIFA World cup. When chips are down then only we realize how much family members care for each other.
The driver of the Tata Magic advised us not to leave the Innova there. That place was completely forlorn and the it would not be safe to leave Innova there. He told that somehow we had to get the car to some shop/house. Since we did not have any spare tyre, we interchanged the front and rear tyre using the torch of our mobile phones.
It was decided that I would slowly drive the Innova till we reach a suitable place to park it. My Brother-in-Law will be along with me. The Tata Magic would come behind the Innova with other six members and the entire luggage.
We found a small shop when we had more or less reached Balemu. We requested the shopkeeper for permission to leave the Innova in front of his shop. He agreed. So we left the Innova there. I do not know how eight people and entire luggage did fit in a Tata Magic. But Tata Magic did a magic literally.
We reached Bhairabkunda market around 8 pm. Barring a few, all others shops had closed for the day. There was no streetlight in the market. It was absolutely dark. We started searching for a bigger vehicle frantically. Finally, after half an hour’s effort, we managed to get a Winger. The owner cum driver was ready to go to Guwahati for Rs. 6000/-. We immediately hired it without any bargain.
The mobile network became become available sometime after leaving Bhairabkunda. I called the car rental company and informed them about the problem. We called up our relatives at Kolkata too. On the way, we had our dinner at a Dhaba. At some place on the highway, there was a huge traffic jam. So the driver took a village road. When we reached Tranqville Guest House at Guwahati, it was another day.
Finally, the eventful but not so memorable day came to an end. We thanked our stars and slept off.
We were supposed to cover a long distance – from Dirang to Guwahati. So we got ready by 8 am. I took some random snaps before start from the rooftop of Hotel Snow Lion.
While planning for the trip, I read in a travelogue that there is a road from Dirang by which it is possible to reach directly to Rupa-Kalaktang-Balemu highway bypassing Bomdila. It meets the highway near Shergaon. I searched in Google Map and Google Map showed the direction. So we decided to take that route though we had no other information about this road.
After driving few kilo meters towards Bomdila from Dirang, we found the intended right turn. There we took a brief stop to pick up few bottles of water.
In the shop, the shop owner asked where we were going and we told him our plan. Knowing that we are driving the car ourselves he advised us not to take the road because there is no support system along that road and if some problem happens to the vehicle, we would not get any help. We did not pay any attention to his advice and stuck to our plan. Now we realized that we should have listened to him. We got stuck in a precarious situation and somehow managed to come out of that soup with the help of few unknown helpful strangers.
After the right turn, uphill drive started. From the milestones, we came to know we were heading towards Mandala Pass. We came to know about that Pass for the first time. Later, from Google I came to know that this Pass and surrounding area is famous for bird watching.
The approximate distance of the Pass from where we took right turn is about 20 km, though I cannot say it with complete certainty because I did not take any noting .
The road was narrow. But the surface was good. There was hardly any other vehicle plying on the road. We did not cross more than 2-3 vehicles coming from the opposite direction till we reached Mandala Pass. So drive was peaceful. Those vehicles were local passenger vehicles.
We were gaining height swiftly. The type of vegetation along the road was also changing rapidly.
After 60-75 minutes’ drive, we reached the roof of the hill. We understood that we have reached Mandala Pass. We decided to take a break. Though as per the milestones, we were still almost a km away from Pass. Till that time, we did not found any habitation or shop along the road. At couple of places, there were few hutments at the side of the road but it seemed that nobody had been living there for some time.
We stayed there for around 15 minutes . We did not see anyone.
After moving few hundred meters ahead, we came to a fork and Google Map advised us to take the left prong though the right prong was looking like the main road. The road condition worsened significantly after we took the turn. The road became narrower and it was not a proper 'pucca' road. At someplace, water was flowing over the road. At some places there was quite a deep slush. The road was through decently thick woods. We realized that we took more risk that what was called for. We also realized that the vehicles, which we crossed while coming to Mandala Pass, had come from the other prong. This road does not belong to normal routes and vehicles rarely ply on this road. We just kept on following Google Map.
After sometime, we saw a Monastery from a distance.
The road led to the Monastery. After reaching the monastery, we did not see anyone nearby. So we got down there just for taking some photos and then continued.
The road condition remained same.
After sometime, we encountered the first problem of the day with our Innova. It appeared that there is some issue with the clutch and Innova was not picking up speed. So we were forced to take a break for 10-15 minutes to let the car cool down. We had no idea about exactly where were we were. Vegetation at both sides of the road was quite thick. It was almost 11 am. Since we started quite early, we could not have proper breakfast. Everyone was feeling hungry. The situation was becoming worrisome.
After sometime, we came to a road, which we found much better in condition. However, we could not utilize the road condition because we were driving on 2nd gear. Though Innova was started behaving properly by that time, we did not want to take any risk. We did realize that if the car broke down there, we would not get any help.
Finally we got our meal around 12 noon, few kilometers before touching the Rupa-Kalaktang-Balemu highway. We heartily had spicy Thukpa and tea there. When you are hungry, you will find the taste of food good invariably. So did we. We started from there after taking a break of around 45 minutes.
After sometime, we touched Rupa-Klakatang-Balemu highway near Shergaon and took right turn towards Balemu. By that time we were bit relaxed. We had driven on this road only few days back. There was relatively higher vehicular movement on the road. We were just 90 minutes -2 hour away from the plain. And then the front wheel of the right side gave up.
Though I go for long drive regularly, I did not develop worthy expertise in changing car tyres. On top of that, I had never driven an Innova earlier. We were in bit trouble. At that time, a gentleman named Mr. Sang Chwang Khirmey, along with his wife and two kids, was crossing that place in his car. He got down from his car to help us out. Practically, he replaced the punctured tyre with the spare one with our limited assistance. I would like to profusely thank Mr. Khirmey for his kind help on that day. Mr. Khirmey is a Government employee and stays at Rupa.
We wasted around 45 minutes in this episode. After moving ahead a few kilo meters, we found a tyre repairing shop. We went there to repair the damaged tyre. The mechanic told that the punctured tyre is beyond repair. So we had to move on without any spare tyre. I was desperately hoping that Innova would not give any further trouble at least till we get down from the hills. But that was not the case to be.
When we were around 12-13 km away from Balemu, the front left wheel tyre also gave up and as told above, we did not have any spare.
There was no locality nearby. We were amidst hills and thick woods. It was around 4-4.30 pm then. Shadows of the hills have started growing taller and started enveloping the surroundings. There was no mobile connectivity.
At that point of time, like an Angel, a biker appeared. He was also going downhill. Hearing our plight, he offered to be pillion rider so as to get a mechanic/alternate vehicle from the plains.
His name is Sunil (sorry I did not ask his surname). He is from Bengaluru. He came for a bike expedition. I am not sure whether he is a member of this forum but I would like to use this opportunity to convey my sincere thanks to him. Without his help, we could not have managed to get out of that soup.
We came down to Balemu hoping that we would get some Tata Sumo or similar type of vehicle there. The idea was to park our Innova at the side of the road and to inform the rental agency as and when we get mobile connectivity while going to Guwahati by the to be found vehicle. But nothing was available at Balemu. People advised us to go to Bhairabkunda. We went to Bhairabkunda which was another 10-12 km away from Balemu. In between, we tried our luck at an army camp, at some houses with parked vehicle but nothing clicked.
While Balemu is in Arunachal Pradesh, Bhairabkunda is in Assam. Basically, this area is meeting point of borders of Assam, Arunachal Pradesh and Bhutan. Few people asked us whether we were coming from Bhutan.
When we went to Bhaiabkunda market, no Sumo or similar type of vehicle was available. All vehicles there were essentially passenger vehicles and were plying on designated local routes. Nobody could tell when those vehicles will be back at the market, leave aside whether they would agree to go to Guwahati. By that time almost one hour has passed since I left our vehicle and other members. It was getting darker. I was not being able to speak with them, as there was no mobile connectivity at the place where our vehicle was stuck. Neither I could speak to the rental agency as Balemu and Bhairabkunda too were outside of coverage of any network other than BSNL. It was a hopeless and frustrating situation. Sunil was also getting late. But he decided not to leave me until and unless some solution got worked out.
We realized that instead of searching for a vehicle for Guwahati, we should first ensure bringing down the other members and luggage tso that all of us could be together. We saw a Tata Magic standing there. The driver was a young lad. We told him our problem. He agreed to come along with me. Sunil resumed his journey.
After getting into the vehicle, I became bit skeptical whether all of us will fit in this vehicle. The driver assured me. Anyway, I had no other choice at that point of time.
Tata Magic had its own limitation. It was not equipped for steep climb. So we had to stop a couple of times to let the engine cool off. Finally, when I reached the place where the Innova was parked. It was almost dark. Everyone was inside the Innova keeping the door locked and parking light on. After seeing me, the way they celebrated that was not less joyous than the celebration of French football team after winning the FIFA World cup. When chips are down then only we realize how much family members care for each other.
The driver of the Tata Magic advised us not to leave the Innova there. That place was completely forlorn and the it would not be safe to leave Innova there. He told that somehow we had to get the car to some shop/house. Since we did not have any spare tyre, we interchanged the front and rear tyre using the torch of our mobile phones.
It was decided that I would slowly drive the Innova till we reach a suitable place to park it. My Brother-in-Law will be along with me. The Tata Magic would come behind the Innova with other six members and the entire luggage.
We found a small shop when we had more or less reached Balemu. We requested the shopkeeper for permission to leave the Innova in front of his shop. He agreed. So we left the Innova there. I do not know how eight people and entire luggage did fit in a Tata Magic. But Tata Magic did a magic literally.
We reached Bhairabkunda market around 8 pm. Barring a few, all others shops had closed for the day. There was no streetlight in the market. It was absolutely dark. We started searching for a bigger vehicle frantically. Finally, after half an hour’s effort, we managed to get a Winger. The owner cum driver was ready to go to Guwahati for Rs. 6000/-. We immediately hired it without any bargain.
The mobile network became become available sometime after leaving Bhairabkunda. I called the car rental company and informed them about the problem. We called up our relatives at Kolkata too. On the way, we had our dinner at a Dhaba. At some place on the highway, there was a huge traffic jam. So the driver took a village road. When we reached Tranqville Guest House at Guwahati, it was another day.
Finally, the eventful but not so memorable day came to an end. We thanked our stars and slept off.
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The perennial problems on Tawang route are, (i) drunken drivers, which you eliminated by self-driving and (ii) bad condition of the tyres. It was surprising that both the tyres got punctured.
Although it is evident from your writing, but still would like to have a confirmation : you took the right road by taking the left turn after Mandala pass, correct?
Although it is evident from your writing, but still would like to have a confirmation : you took the right road by taking the left turn after Mandala pass, correct?
sanuroxz
Super User
santanu
Well-Known Member
I think we took the correct turn. If you look at Google Map, you will find the other road (right prong) goes up to Bhutan border and no other road branch out from the road. The point from where we took the left turn, is few hundred meters before the 'zero' point of Mandala Pass. We could see that the other branch is taking a semi circular turn but we did not venture. Whenever, I go for Tawang trip again, I will try to do an up-down drive on that road from Dirang just to enjoy driving and road side vistas. It is a fund and thrill to drive on those roads which are bit unexplored though at times, that may become risky.
santanu
Well-Known Member
Yes Tapas, very true. This is my first trip to North-East (If I do not consider Sikkim a part of North-East). Arunachal has mesmerised us and we have to go there again. Actually, I am feeling bit sad that this travelogue is coming to an end. For writing this travelogue, for last 8-10 days, I have been doing a trip to all those places, though mentally and not physically. I have been looking to all the photographs taken by us to chose the ones which should be part of the travelogue. Now that exercise will also come to an end.
kprasad
KPR
Yes. We completed the trip although I didn't want to risk by taking family to Sangetser lake or Bum la. Instead we just visited Monastery and then started our drive back towards Tezpur. The interesting thing what altitude can do one is: my daughter became so normal and started playing soon I reached Bysaki which is just 4 km from Sela pass. Descend has ensured she got good oxygen level. Then we did Kaziranga, Meghalaya as per plan and enjoyed he remaining part of trip. Good that we've left a lot to see in Tawang. A reason to return back again. Sela is not like Ladakh passes that I've gone in 2015. Sela is unique given rains and fog conditions. The rule of not travelling in these passes after 4pm must be strictly followed else we may end up in tricky situation.
santanu
Well-Known Member
santanu
Well-Known Member
The End
Our return tickets were booked on Saraighat Express on 10th May. We kept 9th May as the buffer day.
In the morning, we went to Kamakhya Temple. It was fairly crowded. Parents managed to go inside the main temple on account of being senior citizen. Rest of us offered prayer to the Goddess from outside. I did take some photos of the temple but misplaced the same while transferring the photos from my mobile to laptop. Rest of the day was spent to settle the matter with the car rental agency. So we could not see anything else in Guwahati. I guess we were not that keen also. Nobody wants to have Dal-Roti after having Biriyani (no offence to the vegetarians).
Saraighat Express departed from Guwahati Station on right time on 10th May. Thus our beautiful trip came to an end.
This is our first trip to North-East if we do not include Sikkim. Arunachal Pradesh has mesmerised us with its amazing beauty. So I hope, this is the beginning of the journey to explore North-East more.
Let’s see.
Our return tickets were booked on Saraighat Express on 10th May. We kept 9th May as the buffer day.
In the morning, we went to Kamakhya Temple. It was fairly crowded. Parents managed to go inside the main temple on account of being senior citizen. Rest of us offered prayer to the Goddess from outside. I did take some photos of the temple but misplaced the same while transferring the photos from my mobile to laptop. Rest of the day was spent to settle the matter with the car rental agency. So we could not see anything else in Guwahati. I guess we were not that keen also. Nobody wants to have Dal-Roti after having Biriyani (no offence to the vegetarians).
Saraighat Express departed from Guwahati Station on right time on 10th May. Thus our beautiful trip came to an end.
This is our first trip to North-East if we do not include Sikkim. Arunachal Pradesh has mesmerised us with its amazing beauty. So I hope, this is the beginning of the journey to explore North-East more.
Let’s see.
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Very nice.
Please add a logistics section giving contact details of hotels etc.
What was the reaction of the car rental agency?
Tawang circuit is very well developed. But, north-east India remains largely unexplored to the larger section of Indians. If you are not looking for shopping malls, ice cream parlours, partying crowd, if you don't have complaints about being the only tourists around, if you choose the right season, if you can bear the back-aching long journey, then it will never dishearten you.
Looking forward to reports of many more similar journeys.
Please add a logistics section giving contact details of hotels etc.
What was the reaction of the car rental agency?
Tawang circuit is very well developed. But, north-east India remains largely unexplored to the larger section of Indians. If you are not looking for shopping malls, ice cream parlours, partying crowd, if you don't have complaints about being the only tourists around, if you choose the right season, if you can bear the back-aching long journey, then it will never dishearten you.
Looking forward to reports of many more similar journeys.