Road Trip to Hampi-Badami-Pattadakal-Aihole-Vijaypura (Bijapur) from Mumbai


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Off late, I have developed an interest for the history of middle-age India especially that of South India. Somehow, I feel that South India has been neglected by our historians. We got detailed descriptions of various kingdoms/dynasties of medieval North India but our history text books, surprisingly, contain very less details about the dynasties which were based in South India. The achievements of those dynasties not only in terms of territory but also in terms of trade and commerce, art and literature deserve more attention.

Few years backs, I visited the temple complex at Belur and Halebidu, Karnataka to see the two architectural marvels developed during the rules of Hoysala. That architecture is known as Hoysala architecture.

This Diwali, I planned for visiting Hampi, Aihole, Pattadakal, Badami and Bijapur. It was a 5 nights/ 6 days plan from Mumbai by road with two nights’ stay at Hosapete (for Hampi), two nights’ stay at Badami and one night’s stay at Bijapur.

Before starting the detailed travelogue, let me share some glimpses of the trip.


Main entrance of Vijay Vittala Temple, Hampi


Stone Chariot at Vijay Vittala Temple, Hampi


Tungabhadra river at Hampi


Statue of Lakshmi Narashimha, Hampi


Temple of Kalakedu Ganesha, Hampi


Entrance of Virupaksha Temple, Hampi


Temple complex on Hemkuntha Hill, Hampi


Malagatti Shivalaya, Badami


Durga Temple, Aihole


Temple Complex, Pattadakal


Mallikarjuna Temple, Pattadakal


Gol Gumbaz, Vijaypura (Bijapur)
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Day 1 (3rd November, 2018)

Our plan for the day was to reach Hosapete. We had pre-booked accommodation at Hotel Maurya Viajynagar TB Dam, Hosapete.

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Though the plan was to start by 6.30 am, we could not start before 8.15 am. My father-in-law and brother-in-law were joining from Kolkata and their train was later. We took JVLR-Powai-Airoli route. Being a Saturday, we did not encounter much traffic in Mumbai and Navi Mumbai and it was all clear on express way after Kalamboli.


The first break of the day was taken at Khalapur for breakfast at the food court immediately after Khalapur toll booth.


After spending around 30 minutes there, we resumed our journey at 10.15 am.


We took an unplanned tea break at a road side tea stall at Kothrud, Pune because I was feeling bit drowsy.


We crossed Satara around 1.15 pm. While approaching Satara, we encountered slight drizzle.


For first day’s lunch, we were carrying homemade food. Around 1.45 pm, we parked our car on the service road at Karad and had our lunch and resumed our journey around 2.15 pm.


Then we faced the first major problem of the day or the only major problem of the entire trip. After crossing a toll booth, 11-12 kms before Kolhapur, I realized that the brake is not working. Fortunately, at that point of time speed was low since we just started from the toll booth. There was a truck in front of us but I managed to avoid any collision somehow and parked the car at the side of the road. Then we started looking for any garage/mechanic in google map and found one garage 3-3.5 kms away towards Kolhapur. So we took the car to that garage driving slowly using left lane. While doing so, we found that though the brake was not working at first stroke, it was working on the second stroke.

We were bit perplexed because I got my car serviced few days back and got brake pads changed. I called up the service centre and reported the problem to them. They were also confused. After reaching the garage, we explained the problem to the mechanic and made him talking to the service centre. Then the mechanic took the car for a drive and came back after 5 minutes stating the problem has been resolved. What he explained to me that while the brake pads are new, the brake shoes are old and worn out, that’s why the problem took place. Had the car run for another 200 kms, this problem would not have happened. What he did (as described by my brother-in-law and wife, because I was not accompanying him during the drive) to put full brake after picking up high speed. Apparently, he did it for 3-4 times. When he delivered the car, I found the brake perfectly normal. He assured me that the problem has been completely resolved and I can drive the car confidently. We had spent around 45 minutes to sort out this issue.

After sometimes, we crossed Kolhapur. Though the mechanic had told that the problem was completely resolved, I drove the car at moderate speed for first 30-40 kms and applied brake multiple times. After being sure that the brake was working perfectly, I started speeding up. I had covered almost the entire NH48 (from Delhi to Bengaluru) in relation to my earlier trips and found Kolhapur-Belagavi (Belgaum)-Dharwad stretch is one of the best sections and a speed of 100-120km/hr can be maintained easily.


We crossed Belagavi (Belgaum) around 5.15 pm and reached Dharwad by 6 pm. After Belagavi, we again experienced some rains. By the time we reached Dharwad, it was dark.


Dharwad-Hubbali stretch of NH48 (~18 km) is a single lane highway. There was considerable traffic in both directions. Since, it was dark by that time, it was very difficult to overtake. So we have to drive slowly. The road surface is good. Therefore, though the drive was slow, it was not painful.

After reaching Hubbali, we had to leave NH48. Google Map navigated us though Hubbali town and its outskirts and got us on NH67 for the final stretch of the day’s journey. As per, Google Map, we were 120 km away from the destination of the day. We took a break of 15 minutes and then resumed around 7.15 pm. And the worst nightmarish drive of the entire trip commenced.

Work is going on for making NH67 a four-lane highway. As a result, the condition of road is very poor. It was a bumpy, dusty ride with recurring changes of lane. After a tiring drive of ~ 115 km, we finally got good road for last 10 kms and reached Hotel Maurya Vijaynagar TB Dam at 10 pm. We had our dinner immediately after reaching there and retired for the day.

This distance travelled on day 1 is 752 km.
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Hotel Maurya Vijaynagar TB Dam is a KSTDC property. It is quite an old property. Its foundation stone was laid on 10th August, 1960 and it was opened on 16th June. At that time Hosapete was a part of Mysore State. Mysore was renamed as Karnataka in 1973.

The rooms were quite spacious. The service was very good. Still, I would not recommend staying here because of the conditions of the room and bathrooms. As per the manager of the property fund has been approved for renovation of this property. Hope, they renovate this property as soon as possible.

From Mumbai/Pune, there are three routes for Hosapete.

Route 1:

Screenshot 2018-11-13 at 8.57.06 PM.png

Route 2:

Screenshot 2018-11-13 at 8.58.14 PM.png

Route 3:

Screenshot 2018-11-13 at 8.58.29 PM.png

While going, we used route 1 i.e up to Hubbali via NH48 and from there to Hosapete via NH67. At present, NH67 is in pathetic condition and more than 100 km has to be covered to reach Hosapete from Hubbali. Therefore, I would recommend to avoid this route.

While returning, we used route 3 with detour for Badami, Pattadakal and Aihole. Road condition in this route is fantastic. Hosapete to Vijaypura (Bijapur) by NH50 which is in a superb condition. Vijaypura to Sholapur (Approx 95 km) via NH52. This stretch is single lane. But the condition of the road is quite good especially at Karnataka side (~70% of this stretch). Sholapur to Pune (approx. 200 km) via NH 65 which also offers a delightful driving experience. Pune to Mumbai via expressway and therefore does not require any further elaboration. The only challenge in this route is Pune city has to be crossed in east-west direction which can become very painful during pick hours. Still I rate route 3 higher than route 1.

It is bit difficult for me to comment on route 2 since we have not taken this route in either direction, but I guess it would be better than route 1 given the current condition of NH67