Road Trip to Hampi-Badami-Pattadakal-Aihole-Vijaypura (Bijapur) from Mumbai

santanu

Active Member
Before getting into the detailed description of various attractions of Hampi on 4th and 5th November, let me show the key attractions of core area of Hampi on a Google map. This will help everyone to understand the sequence of photos of various attractions and also to make plan for Hampi.

The attractions of core areas of Hampi are on a ‘V’ with Kamalpur as the apex as shown in the map below:

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Ideally, the day should be started with Vijay Vitthala temple. Then come back to Kamalpura and take the other arm of the 'V' (Kamalpur-Virupaksha Temple road stretch) and the various attractions will come in the following sequence:
  • Chandrasekhara Temple, Saraswati Temple, Octagonal Bath
  • Queen's Bath
After Queen's bath, a detour has to be taken. You had to take a right turn and follow gravel road to see the following attractions :
  • Royal Enclosure
  • Hazararama Temple
  • Lotus Mahal, Elephants' stable, Madhava (Ranga Temple), Jain temple
  • Mint Area, Palce of Vira Harihara, Basement of King's Palace
  • Mohammedan watch tower, Band tower, mosque
  • Prasanna Virupaksha (Underground Shivalaya Temple)
After Prasanna Virupaksha temple, the gravel road meets the aforesaid Kamalpur-Virupaksha Temple road stretch and a right turn is to be taken from that junction. The following attractions will appear in sequence:
  • Uddana Virbhadra Temple & Chandikeshwara Temple
  • Lakshmi Narashimha (Ugra Narasimha Temple) &Temple Badaviling Temple
  • Krishna Temple
After Krishna Temple, a fork will come. The left prong of the fork Hampi road which goes towards Hosapete via Hampi Village and the right prong goes towards Virupaksha temple. This will be clear from the following map:

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So from the fork, you have to drive few hundred meters hto see Saasivekaluu Ganesha and then need to comeback to the fork to take the right prong towards Virupaksha temple. On that route, you will first find Kadalakeu Ganesha temple & Hemakutha Hill complex will come and then after reach Virupaksha temple and bazar.

Hemkutha hill complex can be reached from Saasivekaluu Ganesha also but the entire temple complex is on the other side of the slope and therefore easier to access from Kadalakeu Ganesha temple side. This complex is not accessible by car from any side so you have to walk.

On one end of Virupaksha Bazaar is Virupaksha Temple and at the other end is Monolithic Bull. From Monolithic Bull, you can access the following attraction on foot:
  • Achutyraya Temple and Bazaar
  • Matanga Hill
  • Kodanarama Temple
From Kodanarama Temple, you can go to the bank of Tungabhadra for a boat ride in an interesting round shaped boat.

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So if you make Hosapete your base, you can start the day with Vijay Vitthala temple via Kamalpur and at the end of the day return via Hampi road as shown below:

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Hampi is huge with too many attractions. Each attraction deserves some bare minimum time. Therefore, Hampi can not be covered in a single day. It needs 1.5/2 days. So, the aforesaid sequence cannot be followed in toto. We spent 1.5 days in Hampi so there were some criss-crosses. We also had to skip some of the attractions which were not accessible by road because of tiredness and heat.

I will upload our actual itinerary, descriptions and photos of the attractions covered by us in the next post.
 
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santanu

Active Member
Day 2 (4th November, 2018)

We started from KSTDC guest house at 8.30am.

At that point of time, our knowledge was completely based on Google Map. Since as per Google Map, Hemkuta hill was accessible by road, we decided to go there first. The idea was to cover as many attractions on Kamalpur-Virupaksha temple road on the 1st day and to cover the remaining attractions on Kamalpur-Virupaksha temple road and Vijay Vitthala temple on 2nd day and then proceed towards Anegundi enroute to Badami.

For going to Hemkuta temple directly from Hosapete, you have to take Hampi road after travelling around 14 km on Hosapete-Kamalpur road. After crossing around 11 km on Hosapete road, we saw an old temple at the side of the road and decided to take the first stop of the day there. It was 9 am then.

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There was no description of the temple. It seems to be a Shiva temple. After spending 5 minutes there, we resumed our journey.

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After few minutes, we reached the junction of the Hampi road and took left turn.


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Immediately after taking Hampi Road, we saw an old Tomb and Dargah at our left hand side and got down. Those tomb and grave structures were constructed following Bahmani style of architecture which was known for its austerity.

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After spending around 10 minutes there, we started for Hemkuta hills.
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After 5-10 minutes, we reached to a place where there is no road in the direction as shown by Google map. So, we got down from the car. There were few people standing there all of whom were tourist guides. From them, we understood that this is Hampi Village and Hemkuta hill cannot be accessed from this. Inevitably, they started convincing us that we must take a guide. After some negotiation one fellow agreed to guide us till 6 pm for Rs. 1500/-. As per his advice, we started for Vijay Vitthala Temple.

After the entire day’s experience, we realized that we took a correct decision by hiring a guide. Not only he provided many additional information (which may not be authentic), but also made the day’s itinerary more time efficient.

So we come to the junction of Hampi Road and Kamalpur-Virupaksha Temple road and took right turn for Kamalpur as shown in the map of the previous post. We took one stop on that route as per advice of our guide to see the plates and dining arrangement of that era. Probably, this was the dining hall for the soldiers. No superstructure was there now. Only the row of fixed plates and drainage system adjacent to that are proofs of the bygone era.

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We reached the parking lot of Vijay Vitthala temple around 10.15 am. On the way, we crossed Taralighat Gate.

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Vijay Vitthala Temple is not accessible by car. There is a parking lot around 1 km away from the temple. From there, the temple can be reached by either a trolley bus or walking. The trolley bus ticket costs Rs. 20/- head.

Beside the parking lot we saw an old structure.

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This is called Gejjala Mandapa. It is believed to have been used for religious functions during the days of the Vijayanagara Empire.

Midway between the parking lot and Vijay Vitthala Temple, we saw Kudure Gompe Mandapa which was on the left side of the road. The name derived from the horse sculptures (Kudure means horse in local dialect) that adorn its front pillars. For what purpose this had been used is still doubtful. However its location, which is on the chariot road and tentatively facing the temple pond, suggests this structure was of some significance during the annual chariot festival or the boat festival held in the temple tank just across.

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At the right side of the road were remnants of Viajy Vitthala bazar and pushkarini (tank). At its prime, this bazar was 945 mtr in length and 40 mtr in width.

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Each major temple of Hampi had an adjacent bazar and pushkarini. Vijay Vitthala Bazar used to be used for trading of horses primarily.

The Vijay Vitthala temple was dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Vitthala is the Krishna aspect of lORD Vishnu.

The temple complex has three gates (Gopuram). The main gate is towards east. The other two gates are towards north (Tungabhadra river side) and south.

Other than the main temple of Vitthala, the complex houses a stone chariot at the east of the main temple (between the temple and the eastern gate), ornate Kalyani Mandapa (Marriage Hall for the deities) at south-east of the main temple, Sabha mandapa (Congregation Hall) at south-west of main temple, Utsava Manadap (Festival Hall) at north-east of main temple and a Devi shrine. The norther bay of Sabha mandapa is called Narsimha mandapa.

This temple complex represents the highest watermark of the Vijaynagara style of art and architecture. It is one the largest temple built in that period, built under the patronage of Devaraya II (1422-46 ad). Substantial portions of the present structure were added during Krishnadevaray’s reign (1509-1529 AD). The hundred pillared Sabha Mandapa and the eastern and northern gates curved with descriptions of Vishnu and his other forms are attributed to Krishnadevaraya and his queens.

The temple is built on sculptured ornate plinth. The composite pillars of the Sabha Mandapa are massive, hewn out of single granite blocks, which are designed as clusters of slender pillars. Some of the pillars are musical pillars, when tapped gently, produce musical notes. The Utsava Mandapa does have musical pillars too. In the Narsimha mandapa, there is a pillar which has the sculpture of a Yogavarada Narshimha and various other forms. The stone chariot, a reproduction of a professional wooden chariot, is the most stunning sculpture, in my opinion. Typical of the Vijaynagara period, it houses an image of Garuda, the vehicle of Lord Vishnu.

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East facing main entrance (Gopuram)
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Courtyard of the temple complex
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Vitthala temple
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The Chariot
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Utsava Mandapa
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Kalyani Mandapa
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Sabha Mandapa

We spent around 1.30 hrs at Vijay Vitthala temple. We came to back to the parking lot around 11.45 am and started for the next destination, Queen’s bath.

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Queen’s bath is located at the Southeast of the Royal Enclosure. It had its separate enclosed space, consisting of a complex of changing rooms and a bath. At present, only the bath is extant. At outside, it is simple facade structure in the Indo-Islamic style of Vijayanagar architecture.

The total area of the structure is 30 sq. mt. The total area of the bath is 15 sq. mtr. and it is 1.8 mtr deep. Pillared and vaulted corridor runs all around the bath with ornate balconies projected into the bath. There is an intel water channel to the east and moat that runs all around the structure ensuring a constant supply of fresh water. The interior of the bath is in sharp contrast with the simplistic structure of outside, with its ornate stucco and plaster work.

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After Queen’s Bath, we proceeded to the Royal Enclosure taking right turn from Kamalpaur-Virupaksha temple road. It was a gravel road. Royal Enclosure is very close to Queen’s Bath. The distance is less than 1 km

The Royal Enclosure, admeasuring 59,000 sq mtr was the nucleus of Hampi and had housed as many as 43 buildings. It was protected by a double wall with three gates. Now, no superstructure which was primarily made of sandal and teak wood exist today. It was completely destroyed by the victorious army of the coalition forces of Deccan Sultanate. Only the plinth manage to survive that onslaught probably because it is made of granite.

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The remnants of the main entrance
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At the eastern side of the Royal enclosure, there is an elevated platform of 80 square ft. in area and 22 ft in height. This is Mahanavami Dibba. It was built by King Krishna Devraya in the memory of conquest of Orissa. Dussera celebration used to take place here.

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Artwork on the wall of Mahanavami Dibba

The remnants of the bygone era are scattered across the entire area of the Royal Enclosure. Though it was November, there was no respite from the unbearable heat on account of the blazing Sun. So after visiting stepped water tank and king’s secret chamber, we decided to take lunch break and headed towards Kamalpur market.
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Stepped Tank
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Entrance of King's Secret Chamber
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Passage towards Secret Chamber

To continue......
 
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santanu

Active Member
Continued......

We had our lunch at a restaurant called ‘Pink Mango’. It is at Kamalapura market, on Daroji-Kamalapura Road, bang opposite of Kamalapura Archeological Museum. It is a non-AC restaurant on first floor. The sitting arrangement is bit different. You have to sit on the floor. There are cushions for that. There are slightly elevated rectangular table on which food gets served. The cushion comes with pillow so that someone can take rest. The overall ambience was good. It was a vegetarian restaurant. We ordered for special South Indian Thali. Each thali costed Rs. 125/-. Ala-carte food menu was also there.

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After our lunch, we came back to the same place. Hazararama temple, our next destination, is adjacent to the Royal Enclosure. It was 2.30 pm by then. In the open place in front of Hazararama temple, there is a sign-board mentioning ‘Pan Suparai Bazar’. There were no remnants of the old bazar there other than few lamp posts.

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The Hazararama temple is a 15th century temple. It is the only temple in the core of royal enclosure. This temple was built for the royal family exclusively. The temple is dedicated to Lord Vishnu in his aspect as Lord Rama.

This temple is a fine example of compact Dravida Vimana type of temple with sanctum, vestibule, pillared dance hall, entrance porch to the north and south. The eastern porch is extended into an elegant pillared pavilion. There is a shrine for the Goddess to the north which is also elegantly sculptured.

This temple is known for its sculptured friezes depicting the Ramayana, in three tires, running all around the main shrine and the narrative sculptures of Lava-Kusha story on the Devi shrine. Probably, because of this, this temple is called Hazararama temple. In addition, the temple is also known for the sculptures of the Bhagvata and sculpted polished pillars of the Maha Mandapa (main hall). It is evident that this temple received ample royal patronage.

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Hazararama temple compound (this photo was taken in next morning)
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Front side of Hazararama temple (This photo was taken in next morning)
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Pillars inside Hazararama temple
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Artwork on temple wall
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View from the rear side of the temple

After Hazararama temple, the gravel road bifurcates. One branch turns in westward direction and continues along the wall of the Hazararama temple complex. The other branch continues straight. We took the second one and immediately reached at the parking lot of Zenana Enclosure.

Zenana Enclosure, a segregated area for the use the royal women of Vijayanagara Dynasty It is a sprawling compound with a mud road running through the middle of the compound. The entire compound is encircled by high walls with three watch towers.

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Zenana Enclosure from outside
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Inside of Zenana Enclosure
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The Queen’s Palace (visible only the basement) is located at the middle of this area, on the left side of your path. Measuring about 46 x 29 meters, this has been the largest palace base excavated in the Hampi ruins so far. Also the three-tired elaborate base structure speaks of its importance as a palace. The super structure was made of wooden or less durable materials compared to the stone base. Along with the other royal structures, a gut during the incursion of the coalition forces of Deccan Sultanate destroyed the palace.

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The Lotus Mahal, at South-east of the Queen’s palace, is on the other side of the mud road. It is otherwise called the Kamal Mahal or Chitragani Mahal. It was constructed in Indo-Islamic style. It is one of only a handful few astonishing buildings in Hampi that had not been damaged by the rampaging army of the coalition forces of Deccan Sultanate.

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At the northwest corner of the enclosure, there is an otherwise featureless rectangular building. Some believes that it was the quarters of the eunuch guards protected this area.

There are the traces of several unnamed structures and a separation walls inside the campus.

At the east of the Zenana Enclosure, there is Elephant Stable. It is a 15th century structure. Domed and rectangular, this structure was built in Indo-Islamic style of architecture. This structure is believed to be used as the stable of state elephants. Facing west, it has 11 large domed chambers interconnected by large arched openings.

The domes are of various types such as circular, octagonal, ribbed and fluted in design and are symmetrically laid out. There are remnants of the ornate stucco and plastered ornamentation on both exterior and interior.

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Adjacent to the Elephants’ stable, there is a south facing structure (thereby creating ‘L’ shape along with Elephants’ stable). This is believed to be used as Guards’ quarter.

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There is a mud walking road towards east along the wall of the Elephant stable. It leads to an old Jain temple. We skipped that on account of lack of time. We also skipped Madhava (Ranga) Temple which was at south of the Zenana Enclosure which was visited by us in next morning.

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We came back to Hazararama temple and took right turn to follow the westward gravel road. After driving for few minutes we came back to Kamalapura-virupaksha temple road and took right turn towards Virupaksha temple.

Before reaching the junction, we crossed several old structures namely mint area, palace of Vir Hariahara, basement of King’s palace, Mohameddan watch tower, Band tower, mosque, Prasanna Virupaksha temple but decided not to get down because of paucity of time. There were some structures at the right-hand side also.

After taking right turn on Kamalapura-Virupaksha temple road, we first crossed Chandikeshwara temple and then Krishna Temple complex. After Krishna temple complex, there is the junction of Hampi road. We took left turn for Hampi road and after few hundred meters and again took a left turn to an open area to reach the parking lot for Lakshmi Narayana Temple and Badaviling temple.

Lakshmi Narayana temple house the magnificent monolithic statue of Lakshmi Narsimha, the 4th incarnation of Lord Vishnu. The statue, standing at height of 6.7 mtr is one of the finest example of Vijaynagara sculpture. The statue sits on the giant coils of Adishesha, the scared guardian snake of Vishnu. Its seven hoods, acting as a canopy, are arched by a Kiritmukha gate in front.

The roof of the temple is not there. This has caused much weathering and damage to the statue. The four arms of the statue have been broken and the seated figure of the consort Lakshmi on his left has been missing. The face also has been damaged which mislead people in believing that this is a statue of Ugra Narshimha. The presence of right hand of the God embracing the Lord at the back is the proof that it is a statue of Lakshmi Narashimha.

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(This photo was taken in next morning)

The Badaviling temple is situated just beside the Lakshmi Narayana temple.

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(This photo was taken in next morning)

This temple houses a Shiva Linga of 3 mtr height. Like Lakshmi Narashimha statue, it is also a monolithic structure, cut out of a single rock. The pedestal remains in a bed of water. This Linga was also damaged by the enemy armies, but the extent of damage is less compared to what happened to the Lakshmi Narayana statue or other structures in Hampi.

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After visiting Lakshmi Narasimha temple and Badaviling temple we came back to the junction of Hampi road and Kamalapura-Virupaksha temple road and took left turn. Our next activity was boat ride on Tungabhadra river.

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For Tungabhadra boat ride, you have to cross Virupaksha temple market. The market is essentially huge a rectangular area in east-west direction. On the west side of this rectangle, there is the temple of Lord Virupaksha (Lord Shiva) which is facing east. On the east side, there are statures of monolithic bull and conference hall. The walking trails for Achutyaraya temple and Mathanga hill start from here. The remnants of old market complex are along the north and south border of the rectangle.

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After entering the market place, we took right turn and then took a left turn just before the monolithic bull. There was the parking lot. From there, we started walking along the Tungabhadra albeit from a height.

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This walk continued for around 10 minutes. We crossed a natural tunnel too.

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Then we reached to a place where the slope of the stones is quite gentle Tungabhadra is easily accessible. The Kodandarama Temple is at the upper end of the slope. We skipped the temple and came down to the river bank.

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There were few circular boats anchored. On enquiry, we have been told the rate of boat ride is Rs. 600/- per head per hour. Apparently, this is government specified rate. After a lot of bargaining, they agreed for Rs. 2000/- for 5 persons for 1 hour ride. The boat ride commenced at 4 pm. I think, we were grossly overcharged.

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We started sailing at a direction away from Hampi. There were hills and huge stones on both side of the river and Tungabhadra was flowing gently through that. Since it was past 4 pm, the Sun has become bearable. At some places, the entire river bed is under the shadow of the hills. It was a pleasant experience.

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We saw few stone carved structures on both side of the banks. Probably, those were resting places for the travellers during the glorious days of Vijayanagar Empire. We got down on the banks a couple of times during the boat ride and tried to take a feel of the surroundings, tried to imagine how this place was 500 years back.

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The boat ride ended at 5 pm. As per the plan, we were supposed to cover Virupaksha temple and then go to Hemakuta hill top for seeing the sunset. Our guide recommended to push Virupaksha temple visit to next day and straight way go to Hemkuta Hill for watching the sunset. Since we had already planned to spend half of the next day at Hampi, we agreed to his proposal.

So, we came back to the aforesaid junction again, parked our car there and started walking up the Hemkuta Hill using the walking trail on its southern slope.

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At the starting point of the walking trail, there is a statue of Sasaivekalu (Muster Seed) Ganesha. This is also a monolithic statue of height of 2.4 mtrs, enclosed within an open pillared pavilion. The statue, seated in half lotus posture (Ardha Padmasana), bears a tusk, goad, noose and bowl in its four hand. As per an inscription engraved on the rock nearby, this Vinayaka Mandapa (Pavilion) was built in 1508 AD by a trader belonging to Chandragiri (near Tirpupathi) in the memory of Narashimha II (1491-1505 AD) of the Saluva Dynasty.

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It took 10 minutes to reach the top. There was an old structure at the top.

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In the fading lights, I noticed that there are few more temples on the northern slope of the Hemkuta Kill but had neither time nor energy to explore the same further (That was the main Hemkuta hill temple complex which we explored next day morning accessing the from the eastern side). So, we continued watching the sunset.

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With the sunset, the day’s plan came to an end. All other tourist started going down and so did we. The entire Hampi was getting engulfed in the darkness of night. In a way, it was symbolical. The Sun had permanently set for Hampi almost 450 years back.

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The total distance driven on that day was 60 km
 
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santanu

Active Member
I am trying to write a detailed log but because of the work pressure, covering single day's log through multiple posts. I am really sorry for the inconvenience of the interested fellow BCM-Tians.
 

santanu

Active Member
Day 3 (5th November, 2018)

As previous two days’ travels were too hectic, plan for this day was to keep travel light. Our travel was to start around 10 am, see Virupaksha temple, then go to Anegundi, which was the capital of Vijaynagara Kingdom before Hampi, and then proceed to Badami.

I am an early riser. So I decided to use 3-4 hours to see some other attractions in Hampi which were neither seen yesterday nor part of this day’s itinerary. My brother-in-law unwillingly agreed to accompany me. Father-in-law, wife and daughter decided not dance with the tunes of my whims and fancies and decided to stay back at the Guest House.

We started from Karnataka State Tourism Guest House at 6.30 am with the target of returning by 9-9.30 am. This time we did not take Hampi road and straightway headed for Kamalapura. We stopped for few minutes at the Kamalapura tank/lake to enjoy the early morning beauty of the rural surroundings and the water body.

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Our first schedule stoppage of the morning trip came immediately after taking the road for Virupaksha temple from Kamalapura. The stoppage is just before the Queens’ Bath. There are three attractions there – Chandrasekhara Temple, Saraswati Temple and Octagonal Bath. We parked the car at the side of the road and started walking in eastward direction. All the three attractions are in the same direction.

Chandrasekhara temple is closest to the road. The main temple is protected by a high boundary wall with a decorated main gate. The main get is locked. We took photo from outside and headed for Octagonal Bath and Saraswati Temple. These two attractions are at further east and closely located to each other.

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Chandrasekhara temple
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Octagonal Bath
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Rear side view of Saraswati Temple


Our next stoppage was at Chandikeswara temple and Uddana Birbhadra temple. These two attractions are on main Kamalapura – Virupaksha temple road and adjacent to each other. On the way, we crossed Queens’ Bath and Prasanna Virupaksha Temple (we visited this on return leg of this morning trip).

Chandikeswara Temple is datable to 16th century AD. It is an east facing temple. The temple has a sanctum, vestibule, a Mahamandapa with entrances on north, south and east and a Mukhamandapa. The pillars of the Mukhamandapa have roaring lions, trampling elephants and Vyala sculptures. Most of the relief’s on pillars have Vaishnava representations like Hanuman, Garuda, Balakrishna, Kamdhenu, Srinivasa, Vamana, Yashoda churning milk etc. The Garbhagriha has a Pitha carved with the figure of Garuda. The brick-mortar super structure over the Garbhagriha is treated with Stucco representation of Vaishnava sculptures.

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The Uddana Birbhadra Temple is adjacent to the Chandikeswara Temple. This is one of the very few temples at Hampi which is a practicing temple. This temple was also known as Midduviranna temple as per the inscription and was consecrated by Dalavayi Jangamayya in 1545 AD. The temple has a spacious Garbhagriha , an Antara and pillared Mukhyamandapa. The image of Chaturbhuja Virbhadra which is 16 ft. high, is by far the largest image of Virbhadra of Vijaynagara period found at Hampi. The image of well sculptured Virbhadra bears bow and arrows at upper right and left hand and the lower hands bear sword and shield.

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Then we continued driving in the same direction until we reached Krishna temple. Krishna temple is at the junction of Hampi road and Kamalapura-Virupaksha temple road. It is in the same area where Lakshmi Narasimha temple, Badaviling temple and Sasaivekalu (Muster Seed) Ganesha. At its prime, it was a grand temple.

The large and ornate, east facing Krishna temple was consecrated with an icon of Balakrishna, brought from Udaygriri of Odissa by Krishnadevaraya, as indicated in the inscription dated 1513 AD. The temple complex, built in Panchayatana style, with two enclosures, has the main shrine with sanctum, a vestibule, pillared pavilions and halls, a Devi shrine and many sub-shrines. In addition, there is a kitchen towards the southeast of main shrine and a separate store, housed in the first enclosure to the southwest. The grand towered eastern gateway is an outstanding example of Vijaynagara architecture. The temple walls are carved with depictions of the Bhagavata, the puranic story of Lord Krishna and the life of the times. The pillars of Mahamandapa has sculptured depictions of the ten incarnations of Lord Vishnu.

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Opposite to the Krishna temple, across the road, there are remnants of the Krishna Bazar and the Pushkarini. Krishna Bazar was the place for spice trade during that time.

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Adjacent to the Krishna Temple, there is a small housing complex. Probably, this was for the pilgrims in the heydays of Hampi. Today, those abandoned stone houses, are nothing but the mute spectators of history.

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To continue.........
 

deepam

Super User
Keep going... Nice photo log and narration.
The Vishnu Temple [where you had to park car km away, walk or take electric vehicle]; there the pillars when tapped gave SA RE GA MA sound. In early 80's; as a kid I had witnessed and still that incident I am able to visualize.
The Gopuram which crashed; we are told of because of Vehicle movements, this was in my opinion because of rampant Iron ore mining around Hosapete between 2002-2010.
Off the Topic:
Political support was extended; citing environmental issue they closed the Kudremukh [located in Western Ghats] mining. If Kudremukh mining had continued; Miners from Ballari / Hospete could not beat the price; as ore was transported thru' pipelines to Mangalore Port.
 

santanu

Active Member
Keep going... Nice photo log and narration.
The Vishnu Temple [where you had to park car km away, walk or take electric vehicle]; there the pillars when tapped gave SA RE GA MA sound. In early 80's; as a kid I had witnessed and still that incident I am able to visualize.
The Gopuram which crashed; we are told of because of Vehicle movements, this was in my opinion because of rampant Iron ore mining around Hosapete between 2002-2010.
Off the Topic:
Political support was extended; citing environmental issue they closed the Kudremukh [located in Western Ghats] mining. If Kudremukh mining had continued; Miners from Ballari / Hospete could not beat the price; as ore was transported thru' pipelines to Mangalore Port.
Thanks
 

santanu

Active Member
Continued……

Sorry for the delay in posting subsequent part of the travelogue. All of a sudden work load on professional front surged up.

After visiting Krihsna temple, we again visited Lakshmi Narayana temple and Badaviling temple which were nearby. We spent some time there and took some photographs which I had already posted along with the description of previous day.

Our next destination was Kadalekalu Ganesha temple. It’s is also very nearby to Krishan temple. After Hampi village road crossing, as you proceed towards Virupaksha Bazaar, after few hundred meters come Kadalekalu Ganesha temple at left hand side. From there, the road starts going downhill towards Virupaksha bazzar. While Sasaivekalu (Muster Seed) Ganesha temple is on the southern slope of Hemkutha hill, Kadalekalu Ganesha temple is on the eastern slope of the Hemkutha hill.

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There were remnants of old settlements just opposite to the gate across the road. We parked our vehicle there.

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The monolithic Kadalakelu Ganesha is so called for the close resemblance of the to that of a unsplit Bengal Gram. The structure is carved out of a single granite boulder in situ and stands 4.5 mtr high. This Ganesha structure is dated to the 15th century. The seated structure has four arms and bears in each hand a tusk, goad, noose and bowl. The monolithic structure is enshrined in a simple sanctum with a vestibule and open ornate pillared pavilion in the front. The tall slender pillars are structured with depictions of various Hindu Gods and Goddesses.

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After visiting the Kadalakelu Ganesha temple, we noticed that there were few old shelters at the back side of the temple. Behind those structure, there is a stone wall with a gate like structure at its norther end.

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There is a stone paved path at the back side of the Kadalakelu Ganesha temple leading towards that gate from the gate of Kadalakelu Ganesha temple. So we started walking in that direction.At that time, the morning sun rays was hitting the main gate (Gopuram) of the Virupaksha temple and it was looking majestic from a distance.

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Once we reached the gate and crossed it, we realised that we have reached the main Hemkutha hill temple complex. The first look at the temple complex mesmerised us completely.

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We approached the top of the Hemkutha hill previous days from its southern slope. But the majority of the temples are on its northern slope facing Virupaksha temple and Tungabhadra river.

The hill is encircled on its three sides by massive fortification. To the north is the enclosure wall of Virupaksha temple. The complex has three gateways with more than thirty shrines on the hill. The shrines vary from elaborate structures with multiple sanctums to rudimentary single celled constructions. Most of the temples have stepped pyramidal type of superstructure.

Two of the temples on Hemkutha hill have inscriptions. The triple Shiva temple on the east has an inscription recording that Vira Kampiladeva, son of Mummadi Singeya Nayaka, built the Shivalaya and installed three ‘lingas’ inside it. Two inscriptions on the rock near Prasanna Anjaneya temple mentions that Virupaksha Pandita and his brother constructed a temple of Virupaksha and dug a tank. Another inscription on a rock base records the setting of a lamp pillar in the temple of Jadeya Sankaradeva by Bukkavaye, the queen of Harihara II in the year of 1397 AD. These temples form on the earliest group of structures at Hampi and appear to date from about 9th century to early 14th century and all of them are clearly of Shaiva origin.

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We spent around 45 minutes there and left for next destination at 9.45 am. What I feel that in order to see all the temples on Hemkutha hill complex someone needs 2-3 hours.

Our next stoppage was Prasanna Virupaksha temple which on the return path. We did not go to the Virupaksha temple because the plan was that we would visit that temple with the entire family.

Prasanna Virupaksha temple, as mentioned in its inscription, is also known as underground temple because the main structure of the temple is beneath the current ground level.

The temple has a Garbhagriha, aligned with an Antarala and Ardhamantapa and Mahamantapa. The Mahamantapa has pillared corridors fuse with the pillared Mukhamantapa making a larger frontal pillared Mantapa which also encloses a Dwajastambha. The pillars of this temple are plain. The temple is stylistically datable to 14th century. An inscription referring to the temple states that Krishnadevaraya donated Nagalpura and other villages for worship and offering to the God for the merit of his parents Narsa Nayaka and Nagajidevi.

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As mentioned in the post of previous day, the gravel road which emanates from Kamalapura-Virupaksha temple road at Queen’s Bath for going to Royal Enclosure, Hazararam temple and Zenana Enclosure, again comes back to the Kamalapura-Virupaksha temple road at Prasanna Virupasksha temple. We took that road again but in opposite direction. The objective was to cover few places of interest along that road which we skipped yesterday because of paucity of time.

Our next stoppage was Mohammedan watch tower, Band tower and the mosque. No description is available at the sight on these attractions. Probably, these were built by the victorious forces of Deccan Sultanate during their brief stay at Hampi.

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Watch Tower
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Band Tower
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The Mosque

Then came the mint area, the palace of Vira Harihara and the basement of King’s palace. This area is adjacent to Hazararama temple, at its west. No superstructure is there today. Only the basement is visible and ruins of some grand superstructure on that.

The traditional Mint is located here. As per the two inscriptions, discovered in 1996-97, this used to be referred as ‘Silamantapa’. This area has an identified complex of structures (excavated between 1994-95 and 1997-98) and as per the inscriptions, this was palace complex of Virharihara (1337-1404 AD), third rule of Vijaynagara dynasaty firmly confirming about the establishment of citadel and its structures to the rules of Sangama dynasty.

The excavated remains consist of great eastern entrance, elephant alighting platform, the royal court, the residential quarters of the royal women and the king, the royal kitchen and other accessory structures all provided in a zig-zag entrances and a well-planned water supply system. Among these structures, the royal courts, the residence of the king, the well laid garden in front of it and the huge water storage tank with Nandimukha inlet speaks volume of the early Vijaynagara secular architecture of the royalty. The same palace complex has earned the epithet of Hiriya Aramne (Elderly palace) during the time of Krishna Devaraya (1509 -1529) AD.

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At Prasanna Virupaksha temple, at Mohammedan tomb and at the mint area too, we saw some semi-excavated structure at the other side of the dirt road. Those structures were ring-fenced by iron railing and there were no descriptions. So we could not figure out what those structures are. But it became amply clear that this area was the epicenter of Vijaynagara kingdom.

The next destination was Madhava (Ranga Temple). It is adjacent to Zenana Enclosure, at its eastern side. There is a walking trail from the entrance of the zenana enclosure along its boundary wall which leads to Madhava (Ranga) temple.

Madhava (Ranga) temple, dedicated to Madhava, was built along with its Devi shrine in east-west orientation. The temple has a garbhagriha, a vestibule and large 18 pillared Mukhamantapa. The temple is known for its colossal structure of Hanuman which is three meter high and placed on Mukhamantapa. The Devi shrine is built on a raised Adhisthana of 2.5 mtr height.

An inscription at the time of Sadashivraya in thetemple dated to 1545 AD records the construction of Rangamantapa for the God Madhava by Timmaraju, son of Vallabharaju exclusively for holding dance, vocal and instrumental music concerts in the temple. The pillars of the temple have sculptural descriptions of Garuda, Vitthala, Surya, Balakrishan, Hanuman and Alwar.

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It was already 10.30 am whereas we were supposed to back at KSTDC Guest House by 9.00 am. Further, we were feeling hungry since we did not have breakfast. So we started straightway for KSTDC Guest house from here.

To be continued…..
 
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