Solo Backpacking in 'Spiti'


Super User

“I took the right decision by not traveling in the Govt bus and went for the comfortable Traveler” was thinking and praising myself while getting lost in the magnificent beauty of the mighty the Himalayas while traveling from Kaza to Manali.

Initially road was better so as the views all around but gradually roads started getting worsen but the views were getting better and better.. Road became no road as if we were traveling on some water at many places . Anyway we reached Chhatru and took the lunch over there..I was calculating hours and my onward journey from Manali to Chandigarh.

But the happiness did not last longer just after Chhatru we encountered the first water stream flowing on the so called road had grown up due to sun getting stronger which was resulting in melting the ice which was coming down as forceful water stream.

Hats off to the driver who dared to cross that first and it was a great achievement . In another 5 minutes another one but we were relaxed that that water flow did not have much force than the previous one. But one Bolero was stucked in the middle which was causing the road blockage. 3 foreigners who were traveling with us they decided to walk as they have to reach catch a flight from Delhi the very next day. I must mention here the bikers gang of more than a hundred after struggling for more than an hour were able to drag that broken down vehicle and cleared the road and that also we crossed again the happiness did not last long maximum for 5 minutes when we encountered another blockade and when we walked to investigate it was unbelievable .. Two big rocks fell down along with the water stream and took away the entire road..and there was no road just a big gap between the mountain. Seeing clearly that noway we were not going to cross that early I walked back to our vehicle and found none but I took the seat and waited for them..In sometime all arrived and those 5 members decided to walk to the next village Gramphoo I was totally confused still decided to sit and wait for the BRO to repair the road and the kind driver arrived in no time and explained me “Sir keep walking to the next village you will find something to move to Manali ; there is no point in waiting there god knows how many days it would take to get ready and in sometime darkness would conquer the entire place and it would be very very tough without food and water ” I immediately decided to leave the place and reached the place where road had disappeared all were crossing hanging in a rope and that was quite dangerous.. But that was the only option I had a huge backpack crossing with that was very difficult for me but by the help of the locals some how I was able to cross but my entire clothes and shoe were wet and muddy.. who cared… I started walking all alone as everyone were much ahead of me.. The so called road was full of numerous water stream.. in some places I literally struggled to cross due to the force of water also the slippery rocks.. after walking 30 minutes I was exhausted as I was not carrying any water bottle also the height and the lack of proper oxygen was making it more difficult to add the powerful cold wind started becoming another villain. But I had to walk and walk I must have to reach Gramphoo at any cost before the darkness. Just before a kilometer I felt as if I was going to collapse at no time and I was completely numb .. the scarcity of water was taking on me.. I took a break of 10 minutes and I felt as if I would never be able to get up my throat was completely dry.. but somehow I got up and kept on walking as I could hear the noise of the vehicular movement and finally I made it to Gramphoo and one of the guy who was traveling with me immediately got 2 water bottles and gave it to me.. I drank tummy full of water and sat there for 15 minutes .. and Gramphoo was getting worse due to cold wind and it was freezing specially after walking in such a target was to get a vehicle for Manali .. Not a single vehicle was coming empty neither we were able to get a lift nor any driver was ready to go on reserve to Manali..finally a couple who were coming from keylong gave us lift in there A-star by paying 500 each.. and we reached Manali around 10PM .. A day to remember for me forever..

It will not be detailed log as everyone was much aware of Kinnaur and Spiti region so better I will keep it as a Photolog. Still any queries regarding backpacking I will try my best to clarify.

Few videos from the same day below

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Super User
Before starting of the journey Indigo cancelled the flight from Bhubaneswar to Chandigarh via Delhi and I was forced to book myself in another route via Mumbai and Hyderabad. Finally the day arrived and I boarded the Indigo flight from Bhubaneswar around 10 AM and landed in Chandigarh 5.30 PM.I did not have any idea how and where to proceed and I spoke to our dear BCMTian Siddharth Mittal and he suggested me if I would not get any bus towards mountains then I would be spending the night at his place in Kandaghat . I boarded the Airport bus to Sector 43 bus stand in Chandigarh. I must mention here Chandigarh is a beautiful city very well planned and maintained. In half an hour I reached the bus stand and started enquiring and the heat in Chandigarh made me completely sweaty ..

Took off from Bhubaneswar Airport

Finally I got a ticket for Rekong Peo by paying 510 INR, though the board in the bus mentioning that it would go to Kalpa but the fact is it was heading to Rekong Peo.Bus started at exactly 7PM. I called up Sid and informed about my move .It was an ordinary bus but thankfully I was able to get myself a window seat.. Very uncomfortable sitting arrangements. Traffic was too heavy upto Shimla. Somewhere before Shimla we had dinner and it was basic but too good. I was fully tired after the whole day traveling and the heat of Chandigarh but it was not at all comfortable to sleep in that bus.

We reached Rampur around 7 AM. At that point I was thinking how wrongly I was calculating. According to my calculation I should arriving in Rekong Peo early morning.So I started calculating again to cover240 KMs we took 12 hours still more 115 kms to cover ..would it take another 6 hours ? :eek: that feeling was really making me scared.. My whole body was giving up by then as I was traveling non-stop..Another surprise waiting there when the driver told that I had to get off from there and another bus would take me to Rekong Peo.I did not have to pay as I got the ticket upto Rekong Peo.So I boarded another bus which was not at all crowded. The best part of the journey was the view all around and I was over joyed as I was on mountains.The road was pathetic road work was going on.and the ugly Sutlej river did not attract me at all :D Finally I reached Rekong Peo at 10.30AM. I was so sleepy by that time.I just needed a place to take shower some food and a long sleep. Though I was tired I decided to move to Kalpa . I boarded another bus to Kalpa by paying 15 INR and it dropped me in Kalpa in 40 minutes.

Near Rampur


Post Tapri

Dirty Sutlej

Kinnauri kids


View from Rekong Peo

Rekong Peo town




Kalpa is a beautiful place surrounded by Apple orchids. I got a nice room by paying 500INR.. The owner was a Bengali by seeing my condition he suggested to give lunch order first then take shower . I had a nice Bengali lunch with Chicken Curry and rice with Salad .Food was expensive in that hotel.But the best part was the balcony of the hotel entire mountain range was visible and it was truly majestic.

When I got up it was 5PM and I was aware that light fades quite late in that region so decided to walk to Roghi village but the weather was not good it started have to postpone the plan to next day and decided to roam around the tiny town. Nothing much to see decided to return to Hotel and I met so many traveler there we had a gala time over the Local Apple juice ;) with mutton momos. Thanks to @Roadie Arshad for the Mutton Momo suggestion. Evening went in the balcony gazing at the might mountains though it was very cloudy.

Beautiful Kalpa

















Sharing a video taken from Hotel balcony