Delhi to Peo - Almost good and well maintained
Peo - Chitkul rough roads
Peo - Tabo - Kaza - very rough with few good patches
kaza - batal - chandartaal - rohtang pass worst gravel roads you can imagine. go to dhankar if time allows you, it is 30km from tabo. you can do some trekking till dhankar lake.
Rohtang to Manali well maintained road.
If time allow go to CHITKUL.
Carry petrol from PEO or kalpa as there is no petrol pump till manali after that though you can find petrol in shops in pooh but cost is really high, kaza only have one but availability is not sure and carry all essential bike space parts and after PEO you will only fin mechanic in tabo or kaza
Chitkul is beautiful small village located near Indo-China border. It looks like time freezes here. There is a natural beauty in its rugged and treacherous terrain. We spend good 3-4 hours here. Going to river bed is good experience as you can go there on your bikes. By 6:00pm we reach reckong peo and booked a hotel for night stay. Kalpa is also good option but we choose to stay at peo. One must tank up fuel here or in kalpa as availbility of fuel in KAZA and beyond is uncertain.
Peo > Pooh > Nako > Tabo
After peo roads are not in good condition and one must drive carefully. Though vistas are awesome and rugged terrain has its own charm. Roads are combination of slush, tarred, rubbel and we often see boards about shooting stars...