... to the heaven and back


Super User
Day 11 : Dong

Distance : 7 KM

Mode : Bike , Hike , Ambulance


I was 200% sure from last night that we could not get up at our decided time which was atleast 3 AM and that happened.. I got up hearing knocks on my door .. that was of course Madan with frustrated face..The plan for that day was to visit Dong.. Dong is the place close to India,China and Myanmar border.. The very first ray of sun enters India in Dong village .. It not easy to reach that place from Walong.. 4 km by road and another 3 km on foot ..That was the reason we decided to leave early.. and all thanks to Pradhan who had already arranged a bike for us on the previous night..but that plan was flopped.. I could see the real pain on Madhav’s face..

I relaxed Madhav by saying that I would take him to some more beautiful place also we will hike upto Dong.. He was partially convinced ..his face was saying so..

After getting fresh we headed for breakfast..Hot puri and alu sabji.. Captain came and joined us.. his puri tasted delicious J same as his dal… he quickly left for flag meeting with Chinese.. and Pradhan joined us.. he was also busy that day.. We did not need anything else ..we had a bike we had entire day.. and I knew the route J

Madan left all the planning on me.. and I had already made the plan..and that day was going to be a big day for us.. without wasting any time we got ready ..and in the mean time one helicopter landed in the ALG ..Like kids we ran to the hill side to watch :D


Helicopter landing

Madhav busy in capturing

I started riding the bike..Reached the market filled petrol..Petrol was 90 rupees per litre there.. We left walong and riding on the same route towards Kibithu..Riding on hills is always a fantastic experience and everyone must agree on that..Madhav kept on asking about the plan.. but I was not at all disclosing.. wanted to give him surprises..

Without stopping anywhere we reached Namti plain.. which I was not able to see properly the previous day.. Madhav was amazed with the beauty of the place.. and we were discussing how such bloody war was fought on that heavenly land.. Here are few links which highlights about the War of Walong ..





After spending some time there we again headed towards Kibithu.. No we were not going to Kibithu as I knew we would not be allowed due to road work.. rather I was going to meet Chandi and Jaana.. words from a man of words :D Madhav was not at all complaining he was totally lost in the beauty all around..Though he asked me to reach till Kibithu I told him the reason and he was OK with that..

We finally reached Chandi’s place but her shop was closed..and we did not find anyone to ask as well.. :eek: so we headed back to Jaana’s place she welcomed us with a huge smile.. She prepared maggi for us .. we had a great time there chatting with her and her mom… Time to say her Good Bye..who knows we are going to meet again in life or not L Separation is always painful…


1962 memorial











Jana busy with Tutu

her Tattoo

Bhoot Jolokhia


Jana in full smile




The lady who took care of our bike also provided all the stuffs including beers

Orange collector


Towards Dong






















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Super User
We started returning from there .Madhav as usual asked Next what? I replied wait and watch :D We were on the same road towards walong but at one place i left the main road and took a small road ..That road was shown by Abram previous day..I collected most of the required information from Abram and Pradhan beforehand :D We parked the vehicle in the shop present there.. Also asked the lady to take care of the bike.. She happily replied ‘Doctor saab ke mehmaan hona?’ .. That meant our arrival information was already passed there.. Not bad ;)

We kept out bag which we were carrying some clothes .. only took our camera bags and started walking.. Yes we were heading to Dong.. That moment the smile became double on Madhav’s face ..We had to cross Lohit river by walking on a hanging bridge.. For Madhav it was the very first experience and he was literally enjoying this after fearing for few minutes :D and our real hike started after crossing that hang bridge..we were walking among raw jungle..Not a single people was visible..we both were thanking each other for giving company ..

We kept on walking discussing about each other’s travel experiences.. I gave him few names of the places must visit for the state.. and determined guy took it seriously and I know boy you are going those places very soon…I was really impressed the way he had been reaching that remote part from Chennai.. travelled till Dibrugarh in train that to in sleeper class :eek: then from there completely staying in the cheapest places eating the cheap food… Hats off to him.. true backpacker…

We reached Dong couple of houses were there nothing else.. and I did not find a single human being there :eek: Must have gone for work…. Honestly Dong did not attract me much except the hike.. and it was not a cake walk.. we were tired by then… decided to return back as we had more things in our to-do list …We met one guy while returning .. my guess was right everyone in village were busy in working in their farms.. and he also told that there was another village some 4 kms from Dong :eek:..

I would like to request future traveller who wish to see the sunrise in Dong must reach the place before a day either request the villager to stay at their house or carry tents..

Coming down was not so difficult task .. we reached within 45 minutes.. First we checked our bike..it was all safe ..I was feeling ashamed after that.. Though I was in Arunachal my mind was like the dirty urban mind ;)

Someone shouted at us ‘sir’ .. he was none other than Pradhan’s staff whose bike we were riding.... and we also spotted his ambulance..we bought some shop,shampoo and beer cans from the shop..and started for taking bath in hot spring… yes there was a hot spring just beside Lohit river under the hanging bridge :D after saying that I noticed Madhav’s face he was over excited :D That time madhav was understanding why I told him to get some clothes :D

We reached the place… very less water was there..But when we touched it ..it was warm.. fantastic for that cold climate… after changing clothes we jumped into the water… what a feeling that was sipping beer putting our feet in the warm water .. We took bath for almost an hour.. Then Pradhan’s staff warned us ..its not good to take bath in those sulphur water… we took his words and came out.. after taking bath in those warm water when we came out we were literally shivering.. Quickly covered ourselves with warm clothes..

My friends investigating the place





Pradhan's ambulance







what a feeling

Honestly both were feeling little drowsy.. not at all willing to ride to add it was getting colder.. so Pradhan’s staff rode the bike and we came in Ambulance :p .. another achievement :D

Reached walong market place still sun was visible.. and Pradhan was standing there ..was happy to see us… He guided us towards ‘Hut of Remembrance’ .. Just a km of walk from the market.. That was built on 17th Nov 2014 on 52nd anniversary of Walong war..

The name of each soldiers who sacrificed their lives in the war was mentioned there.. a statue was built for their sacrifices was there which was named as ‘Soldier in Silence’.. We paid our respects there took some pictures.. In my mind I was visualizing whatever I had studied about the war of 1962..

Army and the locals had some special bonding there.. During the war the locals helped indian army like anything.. Kumaon regiments did not even know the routes.. no proper equipment no proper clothing.. but those brave hearts with the numerous help of the local fought like anything.. Just one last stupid incident by Indian army I want to mention here..earlier there was a poorly maintained landing ground in walong.. The radio communication told the fighter planes to land in Walong.. but due to confusion they landed in Along.. and proper support could not reach to the fighting soldiers.. this is just one stupidity I mentioned… I am not discussing that topic.. it will be a big book if we will discuss here…


Entrance to the memorial


Doctor Pradhan

The temple inside


Walong from the memorial

Immortal bravehearts













We returned from that place.. Pradhan mentioned that he had arranged one farewell party for me as I would be leaving next morning J Suddenly something came into Pradhan’s mind and he took us inside army settlement.. and we met one sardarji who was the chief of the entire regiment and loves Pradhan very much… Immediately he ordered to prepare tea… superb taste that was.. he was so happy to see us.. I explained him the situation while going to Kibithu where I was not allowed to visit kibithu.. he laughed and told that in general no outsiders are allowed .. again patted my back saying that I made it :p also added that how each and every vehicle visiting those border area had been tracked from both the end.. each week each side had to send the report to their counterpart … that much I would say …shhh :D Before bidding us bye he told us that he would send dinner for us that night which Pradhan politely denied but the happy man did not listen and told that atleast he would send meat (Chicken) :)

with the chief

We entered another campus of army there I was introduced with another Odia guy Sushil who was taking care of the medicine store of Army..he was a nice young guy… newly posted in walong and kept on cursing his luck as there was no mobile network and he was a serious lover :D I showed him the wounds made by Dumdum in Anini and he immediately gave some medicines and ointment to me..I did not take those medicines but accepted the ointment…

Odia gang

It was already dark when we left the military campus.. Madhav and myself decided to kept our bags in IB and come back to Pradhan and in the man time Pradhan can start his arrangements.. so walked up the hill and reached IB.. and there Captain was waiting for us..I must say he was a very good listener also observer.. and he was surprised to hear that we had such a big day… We also heard his story of flag marching.. each month either happens in chinese land or Indian soil and that time it was in Chinese side.. Chinese prepared some really good food for them also he got a Yen currency from there which he did not give me after my hundreds of requests.. I realized even for him it must be a great thing… He was upset that we would not be having dinner with him for the last time.. but we did not have any choice.. L I just told him ‘see you next morning’…

We told the caretaker that not to cook for us.. he smiled ;) Also met those poor Assamese bikers who could not make upto Kibithu ..They were not at all allowed with their bikes from the gate only.. so they just went to the shore of Lohit near the ALG and that’s how they spend rather wasted the day… Advice given by me to them was always keep plan B and C .. :D

By that time Madhav was fully ready..so I also quicky got ready and we started towards Pradhan’s house.. There we spotted four more guys.. We were introduced… all big shots and known faces of Walong and surrounding areas. One among them was CO… 2 more guys were preparing chicken in kitchen…according to Pradhan special cooks were brought for special occasion :p

I spotted chicken with skin … grrr… when I told to Pradhan he said without skin the taste would not come.. I scolded him by saying he was also turning into a true Arunachali ..

We were discussing over the whiskey and chicken and suddenly another guy whom Pradhan sent to get the meat from the Army chief of that area came back with a huge container containing food.. we started so many discussion over the food and drink.. CO’s main concern was how to promote tourism in Walong and surroundings.. Those queries were mainly for Madav as he was doing MBA in tourism.. He told us he had built the volleyball court where were taking bath in the hot spring.. and also trying his best to promote ..he had some plans to organize some annual festival in Walong as well.. I assured him by saying Walong the god gifted place would be crowded with tourists.. People started knowing and its not far one day people will not find a place in hotels which would be built there.. also gave my small idea which all appreciated a lot.. The idea was on a pine fruit write ‘Walong will never fall again’ or something related to 1962.. later they can make it as a key chain or something.. He was really happy with my idea.. I felt madav got drunk as he was mute :D and started requesting that he would leave for IB.. the time was 11 PM :eek: though I requested him to stay there for the night.. but he was not listening to anyone so finally one of the cook went to drop him in IB..

We had light dinner ..then everyone started leaving.. Pradhan and I still chatted till 2 AM then I slept peacefully…

The gift from CO which i refused

My farewell party

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Great update Tapas. I was following few of the posts in your long since starting , and I can only say one thing you are one of these who did Arunachal properly- Lot of interactions with locals , using local transport , making new friends- I doubt there would be many who explored Arunachal in that way , who are so much passionate about Arunachal.


Bravo Bravo

You are special...

Stylish traveler ...

I never heard about the place where sunrise happens... Thanks for showing me that...

Waiting next part eagerly