... to the heaven and back


Super User
Day 20 : Nampong - Tinsukia

Distance : 110 KM

Mode : Bus

Time Taken : 4 hours


Last night slept not so peacefully due to the fear of insects.. but nothing much happened as I was cautious enough in closing everything also using mosquito net..Though I was awake but still lazy to come out from bed..When the caretaker knocked and told that breakfast was ready I lazily went to finish my daily chores..

My plan after roti and Chana masala breakfast was to walk to CRPF camp to meet the Odia commander whom I met last day.. I had time till noon as I had to board the bus at 12 in the noon..so I picked up my camera and walked down till the market..

A group of young guys were chitchatting in a shop.. one guy invited me saying Bhaiya.. They knew me as I was roaming with Minning and happy to know that I was from Bangalore.. they became so friendly and I decided to spend some time with them..

After discussion I concluded how tough is the life in that part…That part of the state was having really troubled life.. Common people had been always in target between the Underground groups also from Assam Rifles.. Both those parties never believed the common man .. They had been treated as spy for both the groups..

Few days back after the May 13th attach on Army personnel few Gaon Burahs (Head of the villages) were taken into custody by AR in connection with attack on the army convey which took so many lives.. but due to strong protest from the locals Gaon Burahs were allowed to walk free ..

‘In those parts for locals there is not future’ .. hopelessly said Japu ,one of the guy from the group.. Though they didn’t wish but situation made them to join NSCN one of the UGs in NE..

“Often the most susceptible in all such events are the villagers, who more often than not are at the receiving end of the armed force and police excesses. The fact is that there are no sides to pick in this territorial conflict between the insurgents and the armed forces. People fear both. Fear and uncertainty have become part of their daily lives as they bear the brunt of a decade of insurgency and slow paced development. Moreover, with the abrogation of ceasefire by the NSCN (K) with the GoI, locals have an obvious apprehension of a repeat of the past events and increased hostility and restrictions returning to the district. They are on their own now, left to suffer silently in the continuing tug of war between the security forces and the insurgent groups.” Said Tage another guy who was planning to relocate to some big cities to earn his livings..

Tage was the proper witness of insight of the UG whose brother just quitted UGs but after quitting also he was not at all in peace.. He told the story how his drug addict brother was trapped in joining the group and how he realized everything and return back to his family..How AR personallel were harassed his entire family for the connection..Till date they were not given clean chit…His family was sure he would be killed soon .. The major issue in both these unstable disticts Changlang and Tirap was created by Naga people.. till date they had been announcing people of Nocte, Tangsa, Wancho and Singpho tribes who mainly lives in those disticts were Nagas but those tribes declaire themselves as independent tribe and no link with Nagas just like indigenous tribal of Arunachal like any other tribes.. People of Tirap and Changlang were caught in-between Naga and Arunachalee identity for long. They got humiliated in their own home.The main cause for all those were due to the locals were forced to convert to Christian.Thousands of Buddhists and Hindus were forced to convert from their religion.. Hindus were not allowed to perform any occasion like Saraswati puja and other festivals.. These forced them to flee from those remote places.. and if got caught capital punishment was must.. Many villages used to here the music of bullet even at present frequently.. The NSCN rebels have consolidated their presence in Tirap and Changlang so that they have unhindered access to their bases in the remote regions of neighbouring Myanmar.

The presence of a sizeable population of Nagas in Tirap and Changlang districts has also worked to the advantage of rebels. The NSCN-IM has included these two Arunachal districts in its proposed map of greater Nagalim.which the locals were protesting strongly..

I was listening those very carefully..

Only one question arised in my mind despite the knowledge about the presence of both the groups in huge numbers in the districts why do the security forces remain silent spectators and launching search operation only after every turf-war is intriguing.Still I personally observed AR was trying the best to win the hearts and minds of Local people…

I was completely speechless after gaining so much unknown knowledge.. I had no words for them.. was little relaxed and understood also that those young guys must be little relaxed after sharing the pain with me..

I did not have much time to visit Commander so decided to return back to IB.. and on my way I spotted the son of IB caretaker who came down in search of me..and together we headed back..

My lunch was ready I quickly packed my bag.. also took bath..and I came to dining.. Lunch was Rice,dal,papad,omelette and dryfish in bamboo shoot which was heavenly… I paid my dues for food and accommodation I realized that that was the lowest among all the IBs and CHs I had stayed.. for each standard meal they charged 40 rupees only and for room only 150 rupees.. Both the sons of the care taker were carrying my luggages and we walked upto the bus stop…

my yummy lunch





way to market



Bus was standing there with no people.. I got a good seat..and kept my backpack there.. bid good bye to both the sons .. and I spotted the same bus conductor who came with me while coming to Nampong.. soon few people started boarding the bus and we started..

This was my last destination for the entire trip.. I was having a mixed feelings.. I definitely feeling bad as the awesome trip was going to end… was thinking in flash back at each step of my trip.. I was lost thinking all those looking out from window.. bus was running fast on Stillwell road.. but soon at a army camp huge number of people boarded the bus ..all those army people were heading to their respective home towns on vacation.. and the bus was super crowded..during the journey partha da was tracking me frequently.. We came out of the beautiful state at Jairampur..and travelling on Assam land we crossed Jagun,Ledo,Jagun.. and finally faced the huge traffic while entering Tinsukia..i must say evening traffic used to be worst in Tinsukia…








stop the bus I said



dont know which tribe she was from


eastern most railway



lal salam :p



Finally landed in Tinsukia at 4.30 PM still some sun rays were present..Partha da was waiting infront of the same hotel where I was staying.. and I got the same room.. quickly changed and got freshen up.. Even partha da’s another friend Ranjan da was having snacks in the restaurant below.. so Partha da and myself rode his bike and his friend came in auto to Partha da’s place..

Our never ending discussion started over drinks and snacks..I was so thankful to partha da to be with me all the time during trip and guiding me in each turn.. Our drinking session was over by 11 and we were served awesome dinner.. around midnight I returned to hotel and hit the bed..

Next day I spent with partha da and another BCMTian @Madhurjya Bindass Axomia had awesome time and same evening I came back to Guwahati and straight away headed to Shillong to spent couple of days in relaxing..

used for sipping tea

party Onnn



ranjan da

partha da and myself

It all started accidentally…when I by chance travelled to Tawang… instantly fell in love with this virgin state… and immediately I came back I planned the central AP trip for couple of weeks.. which made my love for the land never-ending..I learnt so many things.. Tribes attracted me like anything.. next I travelled to the land of Apatanis to learn the secrets of tribe and it gave me more than the expectation… and finally the current trip added the most awesomeness from all the way.. Arunachal you will be always in my heart…...
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Shekar Reddy

Explore India
Great Log, It is only possible for a few like you. Detailed narration as usual. There is lot lot improvement in your photography from previous logs.
We will wait for your next log of current trip starting today.


Super User
Wonderful show !
This seems to be the concluding update !
Good effort to complete this one before leaving for new mission !!
Thanks Sir :)
New mission completed as well

Awesome awesome log :)
Loved it... Respect...

Injured nose looking horrible

All the best for your tomorrow's trip.. Be safe... :(
Nose was not much severe... Thanks for liking..

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Great Log, It is only possible for a few like you. Detailed narration as usual. There is lot lot improvement in your photography from previous logs.
We will wait for your next log of current trip starting today.
Thanks Anna
Just started the new log...

I have noticed that this puncture of Sumo is quite common in AP :lol:
So many justified reasons are there for the Sumo puncture...
Thank you madam :)

Awesome Tapas. Now what?
Thanks Shekhar Bhai

Next is

Land of Highlanders