Discussion in 'Travelogues from North India' started by Sandeep-Dahiya, Oct 2, 2018.
Amazing journey.. please continue
Nice and different TL. Go on please.
After spending a few days on our laptops, it was time for our next direction – The Majestic Spiti Valley. We planned to take the following Route - Manali – Batal – Kaza – Nako – Kalpa and turn back to Manali the same way.
One of our friends decided to join us along on his Dominar. We got the permissions for Rohtang Pass and started at 5.30 in the morning. It had been raining on and off for the past few days in Manali but thankfully that day and the day before were both sunny. The traffic was smooth and the sun was starting to come out. A beautiful day to be on motorcycles! We stopped for breakfast somewhere before Rohtang pass and managed to reach Gramphu before 10. The road till now had been more or less good but that was when the struggle began to start.
The next 50 kms till Batal were as adventurous as it gets. Some of the Pagal Nala had been closed but there were still a few that were going to test your riding sprits. We wanted to reach Batal as soon as possible because sunny day meant these Pagal Nala getting wilder every second, making it impossible to cross. The day ended at Batal, staying at one of the camps. Next day we wanted to visit Chandratal Lake before heading to Kaza via Kunzum Pass.
In the evening I started feeling very tired and that night was the worst with all the signs of AMS along with feeling that I had some kind of food poisoning. The night was cold and uncomfortable but I felt much better in the morning. We decided to skip Chadratal Lake and to cover it on the way back to Manali. We started for Kunzum pass at around 9 in the morning and it took almost 7 hours to cover the next 90kms. The roads were a little better after Kunzum pass and the ride was much smoother as compared to the day before.
While we expected that there would be no network on the journey, we were surprised to find that there is no internet even in Kaza, not even 2G. We tried to find signal all over town nd even managed to get a new BSNL card but the result was the same. We knew about the network situation in the region but were informed by a few that we will surely get little bit of network in the city. Even a few minutes of network connectivity would have kept our work going. This was a deal breaker for us along with the sickness of the earlier day. So we decided to head towards Shimla at-least to the point where we can get good coverage, since we knew that we had no network on the route we came on. This decision meant an epic road trip starting from Kaza to Nako and Pooh. We took a halt at Spello – the first place that we found 4G network, 160 kms away from Kaza. The next two day were spent recovering my health and catching up on work before heading towards back to Naggar via Kalpa and Jalori Pass. We finished this journey in two days taking another night halt somewhere in between.
Back in Naggar the apples had started to get red and the fields were full of different vegetable. It’s amazing how fast they grow. Our friendship with Sultan the dog had grown and this place started feeling like home now.
At this point we had spent a month in Himachal and the rains had started. We were starting to realize that taking work everywhere with us would be difficult on motorcycles from this point onwards. We decided to rent a car for the next month and I did a quick trip to Chandigarh to pick a Celario AMT which we managed to get a decent price for the next one month. The only downside was that you can’t take rental cars to Ladakh. We planned to get 10-15 days off from work towards the end of our journey and ride to Ladakh and Spiti once again, this time, more prepared.
Rae jaat @Sandeep-Dahiya ,tannae kamaal kar deyo choora -Engrossing tale this.
Thanks Sir. I am glad you like it.
Great Memories !
Great Images !
Great Views !
Great Log !
Great work Sandeep...Keep pouring..
Thanks Sir. I am glad you like it I feel the Images are far from great
Thanks You Raman. I will try to post remaining soon.
After a few days of catching up on work at Naggar, we started towards Parvati Vlley via Kullu. The 3 hour drive to The Himalayan Village near Jari, just a few kms short of Kasol, was smooth with rain showers in between which added the fun to our road trip. Celerio turned out to be a good option as it provided protection from rains and weather, making sure a fun and relaxed road trip in mountains. We did feel sad seeing the other bikers getting soaked – we were in that position just a few days ago.
Paravti valley never fails to amaze with its beauty and the rains seems to add an extra dose of charm to this place with the Parvati River flowing at full speed. One can just sit on the banks of the river and be amazed at nature around you – the misty hills, the spray rusing up from the river and the call of the birds… it’s blissful!
We have had a taste of Himachal architecture through our stay at various properties until now and wanted to understand more about these fascinating wood and mud structures. This led us to our first stay in Kasol – The Himalayan Village. The Himalayan village is a luxury resort hidden in plain sight and one couldn’t imagine the sheer luxury and brilliant architecture just at the banks of Parvati River. The property resembles an old 19th century Himalayan village with just 8 rooms – a mix of cottages and machans - and you can’t help but think that this is exactly how the Maharajas used to live, with opulence in the midst of nature.
Our next destination was Tosh – a little village at the end of Parvati Valley. There weren’t too many tourists in the valley because of the monsoons. Tosh had been my favorite destination during my earlier trips to The Parvati Valley but this time the experience was different. The drive from Kasol to Tosh is beautiful alongside the river with gorgeous views. Misty mornings in the valley are gorgeous and we took a few hours to cover these few kms. We paid Rs. 300 for parking outside the village (what a good business idea!) and headed to the only known guest house in the end of Tosh. The stay at the property was nothing as I remembered but there seems to be construction all across the village with guest houses and cafes at every turn. Looks like Tosh is also headed to become next Kasol and Shimla. This just breaks your heart how such a beautiful village has turned out to be so commercial. We did make the best out of our stay with food and the walks around village, watching the villagers continue their daily life.
We stayed in Tosh for just one day and moved to Pulga, another small village near Barshaini. We picked this place randomly as we were sure we didn’t want to go on the Kheerganga Trek, a popular item on the to-do list among travellers to Parvati Valley, but not an attractive option for lazy, unfit travelers like us. The village is around a 20 minute easy walk from the point where you will park your car and a road is being constructed till the start of village. This new road will bring much needed transport and connection to the little village but on another hand, it’s sure to bring the hordes of tourists just like Tosh. I am still not sure how I feel about it. We stayed for 3 days in this magical village, waking up to the misty mountains, surrounded by calm forest, walking around the village eating at every possible cafe, the best one being Boom Shiva café.
We headed back to Kasol after Kalga and decided to stay at another budget property in Kasol. The town was not full of tourists as one expects Kasol to be and we enjoyed our time here with a ride to Manikaran Gurudwara the next morning. We spent more than a week in Parvati valley before heading back to our home in Naggar.
Jonson in Manali during one of almost daily trips.
The wild side of Parvati River.
See that Machan on the right, that's our room.
Here is what it looks like from inside
I can get used to this lifestyle
This is Himachali Dham, a traditional feast food. I can honestly say I would travel any distance to eat this again.
Any food we tried at this place was beyond words.
Artwork here is amazing and represent the traditional Himachal.
Soaking in sun after rainy night.
First view of Tosh Village
Good Spot for Picnic?
Trek to Pulga Village. Road construction going on.
First view of the Pulga village.
We got a nice guesthouse at the end of village.
Reminds me of the Machan at Himalayan Village.
The village life
The food here is great.
And the vibes..
Back in Kasol.
Excellent ...your food photography is out of world, making me hungry ..
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