what should be the tyre changing schedule of a car?

foadbear

Pirates Skulls and Bones
Just curious. Is there any test that we can perform that will tell if we need to change the tyres?

My Ecosport has clocked around 35k and I was wondering what should be time frame in which we should change the tyres.
 

Gaurav Dutt

हर हर गंगे!
...I do a test on my own, just move around the entire palm of your hand over the tyres, you will get to know if the surface is loosing its grip or not. there is I guess no way around we can check if the tyres are worn out.
 
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Some tyres can run for 70k to 100k depending on driving speed, braking, time and many other factors.
Front tyres should have more grip. Replace 2 if not feeling good about them.keep them for back or as Stepney.
Each tyre has own life.
Check what others have experienced on that particular model and brand.
 

deepam

Super User
Minimum thread height or depth should be 1.5 mm [on any tyre- road contact surface]. Anything below is time for replacement. General Thumb rule is even if you have low mileage on your car, replace at least once in 5 years.
Due to the un-calibrated Wheel Alignment machines around; the inner side or outer side of the tyre wears faster. They just give the explanation in India bad roads are the cause of tyres wearing out fast.
As:
Some tyres can run for 70k to 100k depending on driving speed, braking, time and many other factors.
Front tyres should have more grip. Replace 2 if not feeling good about them.keep them for back or as Stepney.
Each tyre has own life.
Check what others have experienced on that particular model and brand.
There is nothing yardstick.
My car got OEM sets for 61 k km
Replaced 2nd set for just 34k km and for hardly 1.5 years! Irony with the second set I was extra cautious and frequency of Wheel alignment was more. It turned out to be a disaster and I had a faster wear-out of tyres.


Most of the Wheel Alignment machines both outside the ASC or inside ASC are never calibrated. Sometimes I just feel just do Wheel balancing and forget the Wheel Alignment.
 
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Minimum thread height or depth should be 1.5 mm [on any tyre- road contact surface]. Anything below is time for replacement. General Thumb rule is even if you have low mileage on your car, replace at least once in 5 years.
Due to the un-calibrated Wheel Alignment machines around; the inner side or outer side of the tyre wears faster. They just give the explanation in India bad roads are the cause of tyres wearing out fast.
As:

There is nothing yardstick.
My car got OEM sets for 61 k km
Replaced 2nd set for just 34k km and for hardly 1.5 years! Irony with the second set I was extra cautious and frequency of Wheel alignment was more. It turned out to be a disaster and I had a faster wear-out of tyres.


Most of the Wheel Alignment machines both outside the ASC or inside ASC are never calibrated. Sometimes I just feel just do Wheel balancing and forget the Wheel Alignment.
I prefer the best one in town / area which has some name / credibility in Wheel Balancing.
This way you can be more secure. In city run problem is less. If you go out of city and on un even Roads, problem is more about Balancing. Steering gives indication about one side movement. Go to mechanic for opinion and with experience you can ask Wheel Balancing showroom owner too. They answer regular customer professionally.
 
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deepam

Super User
I prefer the best one in town / area which has some name / credibility in Wheel Balancing.
This way you can be more secure. In city run problem is less. If you go out of city and on un event Roads, problem is more about Balancing. Steering gives indication about one side movement. Go to mechanic for opinion and with experience you can ask Balancing wheel showroom owner too. They answer regular customer professionally.
++++++++++++++++++++
I followed the same and I found out the reputed once too have issues in Alignment machines.
Balancing, till date I have not found any issues.

I drove my car on uneven roads and jumped some small speed breakers, when I went for wheel alignment; hardly there was any difference in toe settings.
 

AnupamR

Super User
One must start looking for tire when it reaches 4/32” (3.2 mm) and must replace at 2/32” (1.5 mm) and this calculation is completely weather specific. If you live in hilly/wet/snow region you must consider replacing even prior to that.

Poor tire condition will result poor handling, tire blowouts, maximum stopping distance etc, etc.

Changing 2 tires out of 4 is also vehicle specific. If you are driving AWD/4W better consider changing all 4.

Tire life depends upon some below points (not all) IMO-

Driving style
Road condition
Proper tire pressure
Alignment/balancing
Timely rotation
Load
Tire Quality (e.g.- Michelin/Yoko types can last 80K to 100K if above points were met)

Tire plays a vital role in case of insurance claim here, also driving with lower thread than 4/32” with winter tires and 2/32” with summer tires might attract traffic ticket as well.
 
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Theloststory

Well-Known Member
The 1.5mm pattern depth is a good rule. Follow that. If you drive a lot this should come around 40-50k km. By this time you will notice you have also gone through “picture repairs” more than once, suggesting the thinning of tyres.
You must keep inspecting the tyres. If they start developing visible crack marks plus the tyre depth is too shallow (2-1.5mm), Change tyres. Ideally change all four together since they all have roughly the same age.

I follow this practice especially since I have a full time 4x4. All four tyre must be worn out equally. Having 3 worn out and one new tyre means different heights and making the drive unstable and also taxing the entire system.

Your car manual will have a section on this where you insert a coin in the pattern depth to check.
 

uturn

Super User
The 1.5mm pattern depth is a good rule. Follow that. If you drive a lot this should come around 40-50k km. By this time you will notice you have also gone through “picture repairs” more than once, suggesting the thinning of tyres.
You must keep inspecting the tyres. If they start developing visible crack marks plus the tyre depth is too shallow (2-1.5mm), Change tyres. Ideally change all four together since they all have roughly the same age.

I follow this practice especially since I have a full time 4x4. All four tyre must be worn out equally. Having 3 worn out and one new tyre means different heights and making the drive unstable and also taxing the entire system.

Your car manual will have a section on this where you insert a coin in the pattern depth to check.
First time with my old Ertiga I changed after 75k kms that also on worst roads of NH17 & to my surprise only punctured twice.
Now again with my new Ertiga almost 40k kms with single puncture yesterday.
Now road conditions are improving or company fitted tyres quality is improving will be a debatable point.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

AnupamR

Super User
I hear you. If tire rotation, balancing and alignment were done timely than every tire will worn out equally.

I believe full time 4X4 and AWD shares similar technology so changing all 4 tires will always have better traction.


The 1.5mm pattern depth is a good rule. Follow that. If you drive a lot this should come around 40-50k km. By this time you will notice you have also gone through “picture repairs” more than once, suggesting the thinning of tyres.
You must keep inspecting the tyres. If they start developing visible crack marks plus the tyre depth is too shallow (2-1.5mm), Change tyres. Ideally change all four together since they all have roughly the same age.

I follow this practice especially since I have a full time 4x4. All four tyre must be worn out equally. Having 3 worn out and one new tyre means different heights and making the drive unstable and also taxing the entire system.

Your car manual will have a section on this where you insert a coin in the pattern depth to check.
 
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