Zanskar - Jugni in Himalayas


A Terrible Traveler!
We got up at our usual time and the first thing I noticed after waking up was sore throat. Ahh something which I hate. Because with sore throat you don’t feel like drinking and eating. Hotel guy was sleeping so we didn’t feel like disturbing him and we began to load our rides. It was around 8am and it was sunny day with clear blue sky. I was excited that today I will enter in Suru valley. While we were loading our rides Hotel guy got up and we paid him rent and thanked him. He apologized that he could not serve us breakfast as staff was not available. We went to the petrol pump to refuel our rides and came back to town. To our surprise all the shops were closed hence we couldn’t get any breakfast. Just when We were about to leave Kargil I saw a grocery shop. Hoping that I would get juice can along with biscuits and dry cake I went there and I purchased biscuits, haldiram snacks and some juice tetra packs from there. Meanwhile a nearby shop opened and I could see that we can get tea from there.
We asked if he could make Omelate, Maggi he agreed and we spent there around 30 mins and had double dose of breakfast keeping in mind that we might not get much on the way to Rangdum, which was our destination for the day. 2 cups of tea each, 2 plates of Maggi each and 2 omelets each.
We started driving on Kargil Sankoo road and road was fantastic. I had read in Dwaipayan’s log that road up to Sankoo is good, between Sankoo to Parakchik average and after Parakchik village there is no road. So, Till Sankoo the ride was smooth. Once we reached Sankoo I could see Umba La Road and I could feel how beautiful it would be to go via Umba la. Master ji told me not to go via Umba La as he wasn’t sure about road condition. After Sankoo roads started turning from good to average.




After Some time, we decided to have a break as I was feeling a bit feverish and wanted to have some rest. We found a spot to spend some time. I laid there for some time and took rest. Had a tablet D cold which I usually avoided and water which was turned into cold from heated. We took 1 hour break there and Had some shots. Some pictures from our break.

Rides Parked.






My Co rider Capturing every inch of it.


We started riding towards Rangdum village, which I had only seen in pictures. Bad roads slowed downs us and we crossed Parikar village then after some time Parakchik village came. We were not aware that there is one another bad road which is kind of by pass and going via that road we can actually skip going through these villages. While exiting from village Parakchik we found a Nun Kun dhabha from where we could see Nun Kun peaks and glacier. We took another break there and had tea and Maggi.


From here there would be no road and we would be riding on mixture of stones and mud.



Weather behind us started changing and I could see dark clouds following us. Which mean we have to speed up else we might get caught by rain and there was no way that we could take shelter anywhere as there is no village between Parakchik and Rangdum. So, we started out rides.


Zanskar Roads.


It was September and we could see water crossings were drained. Water was very less in these crossing. Which made our ride less adventures and more easier.


Witnessing the beauty of Zanskar.


But It was very beautiful all around that without caring that dark clouds were chasing us we began to click pictures of sceneries. Zanskar is truly untouched beauty. Due to September all the green was turned into Gold. And as it was around 4pm so golden sunrays were falling on these golden color mountains, making it so beautiful. That at times I will just stop my bike and see it for some time, I don’t click that time I just see it.




After every turn I will stop my bike and just witness the beauty of Suru Valley. Roads very bad.


Someone rightly said 'Difficult roads often leads to beautiful destination' and I think that’s absolutely true.



One of my fav shot. My co rider in the picture.


And you will see these mountains again and again.


We reached village Rangdum around 5:30 Pm and directly checked into Hotel La Himalaya. I had read about this Hotel in Dwaipan’s log so we got a room in 1500 for two. We had cup of tea and I took some shots.


I pasted BCMT sticker at hotel and click some pictures. It was very cold and to my shock I noticed around 7 some cabs came and took tea breaks moved towards Padum which was another 125 kms from here and roads are in very bad shape up to Padum village.



LA Himalaya Guest house got a Satelite landline phone so you can make calls. I called to my home and told them about us. Sore throat and Cold had made my condition worst and at night I ate nothing just had a mug of tea and took medicine and slept. Wanted to take long sleep to give body rest as tomorrow is going to be difficult day to ride.


A Terrible Traveler!
Beautiful travel tale, Vikas Bhai. Waiting for post for onward journey.
Thank you Shekhar Bhai.

Amazing storytelling loved the Pics...thanks for sharing.
Thank you, Glad you liked my log,

Wonderful update, Vikas. The backdrop of all the pics is beautiful, cannot wait to visit this place.
Thank you brother, Next update is full of pictures.

beautiful log
Thank you.


A Terrible Traveler!
I have seen Milky way over mountains during my Spiti Trips. I thought Milky way in Zanskar would be mind blowing and I had plans to capture it but due to ‘not feeling well’ I didn’t come out of my room and I got up around 7am. Lights was coming to room from both corners as I had taken corner rooms. I was feeling all Ok. No sign of cold and sore throat. I decided to have a walk outside to see the beauty of Suru Valley.

Came outside of room, When you feel fresh everything seems beautiful to you. Even a light coming through a curtain.


I saw water was semi frozen in Rangdum due to minus temperature at last night.


Walked around village and clicked some pictures




With Owner Tsering Dorjey's son and pet.


When I came out of my Room, Dharam was sleeping. When I returned back to room after my morning walk, Dharam was ready to Ride. I took no time in getting ready. We had breakfast and were on Road by 9 am. Our first stop was Rangdum monastery. Monastery is located at outskirts of Rangdum village and It’s beautiful. Some Pictures from Monastery.

Sunlight making colors of monastery more beautiful.



Inside Monastery.


How can I forget to click our Tempo.


You can see Rangdum village and road to Rangdum village from here. Quite Far.



Soon after there was no Road and road ascending to Penzi La was in poor shape. There were rocks all over the road.



I was aware that Zanskar valley starts from here and there would be multiple pit stops here to see the beauty of Zanskar. Soon I reached the entry point of Zanskar Valley.

Whoosh Welcome to Zanskar!


Just after entering into Zanskar Valley, you will spot a lake from the road. I was stunned to see the beauty of Zanskar Valley. Water of lake was blue and there were snow-capped mountains around and golden grass. What else you want in life. It was so beautiful that I parked my bike and spend some time there at lake.


Jugni in Himalayas.



When you are Happy... Pose.


Rider on Cloud 9




A Terrible Traveler!
Just after that lake It was time to take another break at only pass – Penzi La. From Penzi La pass you can also see Drang Drung glacier. I had seen this pass first time in travelogue Master Ji (Narender). He reached here on his Bajaj Scooter. Clicked some pictures here as it was the moment of celebration.


Lakes where we had posed earlier.


Jugni posing at Penzi La.


Mighty Drang dung Glacier.


After That we were riding through on off roads. So far, my ride Jugni has performed very well. I found it very comfortable in riding on off road.

Roads of Zanskar.



We crossed some villages and I wanted to have a cup of tea but couldn’t find a shop. Then We reached in a village and It was time refill water bottles and short break. There was a guy who started chatting with us. Asked about us that why are we riding in such cold weather. We replied to him that we like to ride in off season. I asked him if we can have tea anywhere in village, he offered us tea and we took out cake and biscuits from the bag sat on roadside and had two cups of tea each.


Gentleman who offered us tea, Rather we requested for it. He was feeling shy when I asked for his picture.


We asked about road condition further and he said after few kms we have to cross a bridge which is a alternate route to reach Padum and road is better. We bid adieu to that kind guy and started riding towards Padum. We could see that alternative route and turn towards that road. Soon we were at another beautiful village – Sani. Very small village but very beautiful. We took another break to explore the village and we could see Padum village from Sani village. We spent around 30 mins taking many shots.

Some shots from the village.








We could see Padum village from here it was just 3pm.